colt_impala

iTrader: (3)

i posted this earlier and the pics didnt come up so i deleted that post and am reposting it with pics. so as i said earlier, the knocking was caused by my 4th gear(if you can call it that anymore) so far the only pics i have are of the teardown. i mainly took them to help me with the reassembly. ive got 1st, 2nd, and 3rd back on the shaft with new keys, rings, springs. Also upgraded to the steel 3-4 fork. brass pads on 1-2 and 3-4. replaced the 3-4 synchro assembly completly. im waiting on one part to come in the mail that i forgot to order. once it gets here ill be putting everything else back together. notice the magnets in the pic, the sharpnal on them is the remainder 4th gear and several keys. also had to replace the countershaft along with 4th.

1904gto

iTrader: (4)

cool pics and teardown

colt_impala

iTrader: (3)

thanks. i know theres a teardown guide in the stickies, but some pictures show diffrent angles than others. i took pics mainly to help me if i forgot where something went, but figured they could be of some use to others. its the 1st trans ive rebuilt, and it not as bad as its made out to be

collier341

iTrader: (5)

Wow that looks like quite the puzzle to put back together! Good luck and keep the pics comin'. LOL at the mustang sticker

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

Seriously consider replacing the blocker rings and bearings since you've had so much metal go through the trans..

Pay close attention to the shimming during the rebuild as stripping the gears between the input&cluster is typical of loose clearances.

colt_impala

iTrader: (3)

the race from 4th gear spun i think because the shim for it was pretty chewed up. the new races fit kind of loose in the front plate. i mean they fit perfect but i can remove them by hand. im assuming they are suppose to fit tighter than this? the guy who is pressing on my new bearing said we should put loctite on the races, but i dont wanna do this till i know i dont need nmore shims under them

colt_impala

iTrader: (3)

thanks. i get alot comments on the sticker lol.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

Whom ever told you to locktite the races in a T56 mid-plate is an idiot and never worked on a T56 before.. Run far, run fast...

riceburnerZ28

iTrader: (20)

How much did all the parts cost? Where did you get those metal strips from for the gear puller?

MUSTANGBRKR02

iTrader: (91)

Jesus that was alot of metal in there. Mike85TPI knows his stuff, helped me on my rebuild.

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

you can buy them at home depot or any harware store

colt_impala

iTrader: (3)

parts costed right at about a grand. that includes the new countershaft, 4th/input shaft , rebuild kit with bearings, 3/4 synchro assembly, 3/4 steel shift fork, and brass pads for 1/2 and 3/4. i got all my parts from www.thegearbox.org. and the metal strips were originally riveted together and used to set conibear wildlife traps, but i dont trap anymore so i popped out the rivet and drilled a few sets of hole in them. but like someone else said, they sell them at any hardware store in like 4 foot lengths

colt_impala

iTrader: (3)

so just put the race and shim in the hole and then what? is it suppose to be able to be turned and removed by hand?

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

Yup. The race is not an inference fit, it's suppose to be removable. The shimming keeps the race in place and it's lubricated from the backside also through the machined slots. The races are not suppose to see a large side-loading, and so don't have to be press-fit.

colt_impala

iTrader: (3)

ok thanks. the old ones were in there pretty tight, thats why i asked. the ones in the housing were hard coming out and had to press them in. sound about right?

colt_impala

iTrader: (3)

oh and you mentioned the blocker rings, i replaced them along with the bearings

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

The 3 bearings with shims under them (2 in mid-plate, 1 in tail housing) are hand-fit. The 2 in the main case are a press-fit.

colt_impala

iTrader: (3)

ok, so what are the chances ill have to shim it? the only major components i replaced were the counter shaft and input. i put a new shim under them to match the original shim. and if i need to shim it more, which one do i shim, the ones on the midplate or the one in the tailshaft? sorry for all the questions, but on my 1st rebuild i need all the advice i can get.

Damian

iTrader: (89)

Bojangles is the ****.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

Chances are 50/50 you'll have to shim it...

Chances are 100% you'll have an unknown issue when not shimming it and be uncertain if the cause is a clearance issue or not...

Read the sticky at the top and get the T56 rebuild manual. It has all 3 shimming procedures in it.