Powershifting w/ Spec 3
04-04-2010, 03:40 PM
#1
Powershifting w/ Spec 3 Since I've broken in my new Spec 3, I can't powershift as fast as I could with the stock set-up. It's like it locks me out of gear and occasionally it grinds and doesn't let me into gear @ WOT. I'm not talking about no-lift shifting, just really fast shifting. Several people have told me I have to re-learn how to drive my car and shift slower but that's BS. I'm gonna try to mighty-vac it again tomorrowto make sure it's bled as it should be. Anyone else hear about not being able to get it into the next gear @ WOT?
04-04-2010, 03:45 PM
#2
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Did you change the slave and master cylinder too or just the clutch? The problem you having sounds like the usually problem with the ls hydraulics if you upgrade to a tick mast it should solve it
04-04-2010, 04:32 PM
#3
this is almost normal of the spec 3+. The 3+ disc is heavier than most so it make it abit harder for the syncros to slow the disc down to match the next gear. Thats whats giving you the feeling of slower shifts or being lock out of the next gear. I have the spec 3+ in my car and in the near future, I'll be swaping it out for a custom built clutch with a lighter friction disc to allow for quicker shifts.
04-04-2010, 06:36 PM
#4
this is almost normal of the spec 3+. The 3+ disc is heavier than most so it make it abit harder for the syncros to slow the disc down to match the next gear. Thats whats giving you the feeling of slower shifts or being lock out of the next gear. I have the spec 3+ in my car and in the near future, I'll be swaping it out for a custom built clutch with a lighter friction disc to allow for quicker shifts.
If you have the tranny in neutral and clutch it with the intent to put it in gear. Because of the added weight, it takes longer to spin down so you can get in gear.
04-04-2010, 07:47 PM
#5
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From doing alot of searching this is a common issue with spec.
Me and alot of other guys have issues shifting at high PRMS , and spec blames the hydrolics. And says a adjustable master is needed.
the way ive learned to deal with it and slip the clutch a bit between gears, helps but still sucks. I plan on getting a LS7 clutch when I have the spare cash and time.
Me and alot of other guys have issues shifting at high PRMS , and spec blames the hydrolics. And says a adjustable master is needed.
the way ive learned to deal with it and slip the clutch a bit between gears, helps but still sucks. I plan on getting a LS7 clutch when I have the spare cash and time.
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04-05-2010, 06:00 AM
#9
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My spec 3 is horrible about this. I pulled it out and going back LS7 disk and pressure plate. I expected a lot of chatter out of the 6 puck disk but I also expected to shift the damn thing.
04-05-2010, 08:49 AM
#10
A stage 3 disc has a lower weight than the stage 3+. I am sure that Barney just missunderstood what Rob was using. No worries. That being said We have a CTS-V in the parking lot with our stage 3+ and steel flywheel in it and the trans shifts like butter. Countless others with 3+ kits will attest to the same thing. I know it may be hard to believe but other factors can affect shift feel. This can include hydraulics, transmission wear, shifter adjustment, etc...
There is no reason for the stage 3 to slow your shifting time. Let me know how the re-bleed works and we can proceed from that point forward. Thanks,
There is no reason for the stage 3 to slow your shifting time. Let me know how the re-bleed works and we can proceed from that point forward. Thanks,
04-05-2010, 03:17 PM
#11
OK- we learned some interesting things today and fixed the problem. First, I bought a new GM master from the dealership a few weeks ago to initially install with the clutch. We installed it without comparing it to the original master. Well, we took that master out today to make it adjustable and to do the drill mod. When we looked at the stock master, the hole where you put the drill bit in to drill the internal passage was 2/3 larger than the brand new GM master I bought. Apparently, GM doesn't do the internal narrowing of the line anymore; they do it externally on the brass nut. It was literally a pin-hole compared to the stock one. Doing the drill mod was easy because the hole we were making bigger is on the outside of the line as opposed to 2 inches deep like stock. After doing the drill mod, we made it adjustable and bench-bled the master cylinder. After re-installing it we did a quick bleed underneath the car and took it out. So far the car has performed FLAWLESSLY. It easily barks 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear, (not bad for just a GMMG and a lid) lol. Thanks for all the info guys and I hope this helps some of you guys out.
04-05-2010, 04:23 PM
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good luck..
Baezi
04-05-2010, 07:00 PM
#15
No Jeremy I didn't take pics like I normally do. The stock master fit the drill bit for the drill mod perfectly without any play side-to-side movement whereas the new GM master would barely fit lead from a mechanical pencil in it. We had to use a smaller bit to start the hole and it went very easily through for the next size to finish making the hole bigger. If you post up pics of what you have Jeremy I can tell you. No exaggeration, it was literally a pin-hole. Thanks to you also Baezi and jmm98ls1.
04-06-2010, 05:18 AM
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Thanks for posting this thread, Im having the same issues. I was just about to pull the trigger on a new clutch kit.
Im going to try the drill mod and keep my fingers crossed.
But seems like my hydros on the cts-v are alot diffrent. I hope it works the same .
Im going to try the drill mod and keep my fingers crossed.
But seems like my hydros on the cts-v are alot diffrent. I hope it works the same .
04-07-2010, 03:03 PM
#17
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qwk question, are the f-body slave lines braided rubber from the qwk disconnect to the master?
Because I noticed the one on My CTS-V is rubber only.
Wonder if that right there could be my problem ..
Because I noticed the one on My CTS-V is rubber only.
Wonder if that right there could be my problem ..
04-07-2010, 03:20 PM
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I wouldn't put a SPEC clutch in my lawnmower...i went through 3 before I finally stepped up to my RAM 6130 VDS sytem with all new hydraulics and RAMs adjustable master. I had replavced the slave cylinder twice with brand new GM units and a new GM master cylinder while I had the SPECs. We power bled the damn thing almost a dozen times and still would hang up on a shift. Finally after the pressure plate broke, I had the RAM installed and HAVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM
04-07-2010, 08:18 PM
#19
On the F-bodies, the entire clutch hose is stainless steel braided line.
