lazyhomie

iTrader: (3)

Hey everyone I read the sticky on here about sticky clutch pedals but I still have a question. When you do the drill mod Am i Supposed to drill both ends of the lines or just the orange one that connects to the tranny. My clutch is fine for normal driving but when I try to shift fast at high rpms it sticks. I replaced my clutch master in November with one from O'reillys do you think it could have gone bad that fast? Its really pissing me off because just got thru instaling LTs and UD pulley and cant even try the car out decently. It hardly ever did this before so it seems weird that its doing it now so often. I've heard anywhere from bad tranny to bad master n slave. Any ideas?

tripps

iTrader: (7)

The problem is the original clutch master does not push enough fluid fast enough to disengage the clutch. This the exact same thing that happened to me after I installed headers and full exhaust. More power = faster time to redline. You need an aftermarket master cylinder that will push the amount of fluid fast enough that disengages the clutch.

An easy way to check for this is to slowly take your car up to 6k rpms while driving and try to shift quickly. I was driving in 2nd and took it to 6k slowly and got a 2nd gear scratch.

lazyhomie

iTrader: (3)

Well did the drill mod all the way and pedal still sticks... so I'm guessing even though my clutch master cyl is still pretty new its useless? whats a good one to use I don't have the cash to buy a tick.

lazyhomie

iTrader: (3)

Anybody else have any suggestions to help solve this problem for a broke college boy?

6.0 silverado

iTrader: (2)

Could be your slave also. Disconnect your m/c from the tranny and try to depress the clutch pedal with YOUR hand. Don't push on it too hard. The pedal should be rock solid. If not, bad m/c or you have air in the lines. If it is solid, might be your slave. I know the hydros on these cars are painful to deal with sometimes.

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

I had the same problem with mine. Replaced the stock LS1 clutch with the LS7 kit and haven't had a pedal stick since.

nimrod.sixty9

iTrader: (5)

^^What do you mean LS7 kit?

lazyhomie

iTrader: (3)

Ok everyone well I installed a new replacement from auto parts bled it thoroughly and no go.... still same problem so as somebody mentioned on here I guess I need an aftermarket clutch master cyl. I don't have the money for the tick but I have seen the ram adjustable master cylinder that does seem affordable? Does this sound like it would solve my problem if i swap over to this one? Or is there another master cylinder that is out there and affordable. The tick sounds nice but at over 300 plus. Its not affordable for me right now any other options?

6.0 silverado

iTrader: (2)

Why do you think that the m/c is the source of your problems?

lazyhomie

iTrader: (3)

Well someone here mentioned they had the same problem after lt's install and I also did my UD pulley. Before I did this the car hardly ever did this getting the pedal stuck thing. Now its just about everytime I try to go WOT pedal sticks. I did what someone mentioned above to rev it slowly to 6k and it will shift hard but once time for next gear to come in stuck pedal. Also If i just go wot and try to shift pedal is stuck on me.

tripps

iTrader: (7)

Seriously..save up the money to buy a Tick MC if you want to solve the problem. Many people have bought other MC's and it did not fix their problem. You have to push more fluid to your clutch and Tick makes the MC that does it.

6.0 silverado

iTrader: (2)

Also, don't damage your transmission while you are having shifting issues. Don't try to force it into gear or shift hard when it doesn't want to. I made that mistake and now I have to rebuild my tranny.

lazyhomie

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I've tried not to get on it hard. I figured ill start off with the master cylinder since its probably the cheapest and if that doesnt solve the problem the tranny will come out for new clutch and slave.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

What year is your car? My 97 I swapped a 00 LS1 into with 00 hydraulics had the problem. I couldn't get into 3rd or 4th for **** the pedal stuck so far. My 01 with stock hydraulics with the same motor/exhaust setup shifts fine, but the pedal still sticks a little.

A friend of mine had similar problems on his 02, he replaced all his hydraulics, drill mod, even bought a McLeod adjustable master cylinder, and still nothing. He returned the McLeod master, bought a whole new clutch (can't remember which one he went with) and he now says the problems went away completely and has no problems.

Sometimes it's the hydraulics, sometimes it's a weak clutch. Either way always run clean DOT4 fluid.

lazyhomie

iTrader: (3)

Its a 99 and I've done the drill mod and nothing and I just ordered a ram adjustable master cyl hoping that will solve my problem. and I'm running dot 3 &4 compatible fluid. What the diff on DOT 4 higher boiling point correct? I though our cars only used dot 3 fluid? The one im using had boiling point of 311 I think.

6.0 silverado

iTrader: (2)

DOT 4 has a higher boiling point. A lot of guys run it so the fluid is less likely to boil when you are driving hard. The hydraulic line also runs pretty close to the header, even though there is a heat shield.

nimrod.sixty9

iTrader: (5)

Any think it might be the pressure plate fingers sticking. I'm no pro, so its just a thought.

Wish I would have known all this before I bought my LS1 M6

lazyhomie

iTrader: (3)

Actually me and a buddy thought about that because on his saleen he had the same problem. Normal driving was cool but when he got on it the car would take a few seconds to shift into the next gear. Of course his is cable so no sticky pedal. Wish we had that

nimrod.sixty9

iTrader: (5)

Did a pressure plate replacement change his issues?

Another thing that crossed my mind is the line. Wonder if it could be streatched..

The reason I say pressure plate is: If I rev my engine out of gear, testing the pressure before hand, it will respond the same as if I was drving it hard when I go to put it in gear. Yet Im sitting and idleing...

I mean if the general populace agrees that its the amount of flow is not retuning fast enough. Then how in the hell did it go down just by reving and not using the MC at all? I never even put the flow there...

The only thing I can think of is that the pressure plate fingers are pulling inward (not enough to break friction from the clutch) enough and dragging on return to cause the slave to expand and thus the rest of the system...

And I have read quite a few posts that saying that the only thing that worked (excluding Tick) for them was the clutch system replacement...

Along that line;

BoostJunkieXL

iTrader: (18)

My 00 T/A has the "sticky pedal" problem too. It goes in tomorrow morning for the Tick CMC. I will let you know how it feels after!