LT1 M6 Mcleod Clutch: Car moves with clutch pedal pressed in.
05-10-2010, 08:27 PM
#1
Launching!
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LT1 M6 Mcleod Clutch: Car moves with clutch pedal pressed in. My flywheel has been machined 3 times. Stock LT1 flyhweel, I put an aftermarket mcleod street/strip clutch and pressure plate in 40k miles ago worked fine until last week. I was presented with clutch dragging, the pressure plate will not fully disengage with the clutch pedal to the floor. All gears are hard to shift while driving. The car literally drives after a stop with the clutch pressed to the floor and car in either reverse or first gear.
Today I swapped master cylinders, stock for stock. I bench bled the hell out of the slave/master and bled it atleast 20 more times after installation.
Is my flywheel too thin??
Will making my master cylinder adjustable to allow more slave clyinder travel fix this?
Today I swapped master cylinders, stock for stock. I bench bled the hell out of the slave/master and bled it atleast 20 more times after installation.
Is my flywheel too thin??
Will making my master cylinder adjustable to allow more slave clyinder travel fix this?
05-10-2010, 08:33 PM
#2
You need to add shims it sounds like for your slave. Do a quick search about shimming there's a few good posts on it. I don't know how similar it is for a lt1, but should be the same.
05-10-2010, 08:56 PM
#3
Launching!
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the slave is completely different on the LT1, I'm really tempted to do the free mod:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...r-writeup.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...r-writeup.html
05-11-2010, 06:16 PM
#4
Launching!
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Drove the car 50 miles, seems like it was an issue with the hydraulics, the engagement is working perfectly, must have been one last air bubble in the system.
05-16-2010, 08:59 PM
#5
Launching!
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symtoms appeared again a few days ago, I bled the system for three hours per instructions found here: http://www.ls2.com/boggs/clutch/lt1c...leedingmm6.htm
Seemed to work well for about a day.
Yesterday I pressed the clutch in (with the car off) and slid my foot to the right under the brake pedal to let the clutch pedal release full force in hopes of allowing trapped air to escape. I did this 60 times with improvement.
Symtoms persisting again today. Tomorrow I will try the adjustable MC mod and drill mod.
I took apart my oem gm master cylinder to find the internal stop is already half the size. This intially came with a prebled system i bought from GMparts direct like 3 years ago, interesting.....
Seemed to work well for about a day.
Yesterday I pressed the clutch in (with the car off) and slid my foot to the right under the brake pedal to let the clutch pedal release full force in hopes of allowing trapped air to escape. I did this 60 times with improvement.
Symtoms persisting again today. Tomorrow I will try the adjustable MC mod and drill mod.
I took apart my oem gm master cylinder to find the internal stop is already half the size. This intially came with a prebled system i bought from GMparts direct like 3 years ago, interesting.....
Last edited by marc1130; 05-16-2010 at 09:21 PM.
05-16-2010, 09:52 PM
#6
Launching!
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Comparison of newer to old unit:
Newer Plunger Unit:
Old:
Newer Stop:
Old:
It is obvious that GM has changed the stop unit, hopefully I can achieve more slave cylinder actuation by increasing the length of the clutch master clylinder rod to be greater than 7 inches. I will put the car on jack stands and adjust the MC until I achieve desired results, wheels not spinning in any gear with the clutch pedal pressed in.
Newer Plunger Unit:
Old:
Newer Stop:
Old:
It is obvious that GM has changed the stop unit, hopefully I can achieve more slave cylinder actuation by increasing the length of the clutch master clylinder rod to be greater than 7 inches. I will put the car on jack stands and adjust the MC until I achieve desired results, wheels not spinning in any gear with the clutch pedal pressed in.
Last edited by marc1130; 05-17-2010 at 12:06 AM.
