Textralia Twin Disk Slips Off Idle
05-31-2010, 02:12 PM
#1
Textralia Twin Disk Slips Off Idle Just installed Textralia Twin Disk and it slips immediately when I try to drive car.....any ideas 
EDIT:Found out problem...not cool
RedHatRdRacer is a horrible seller and has committed internet fraud and wont answer my messages or refund my money. I am submitting all this evidence to my bank tomorrow and I was told they will reverse the funds. I can get Jarrod from textralia to send me a letter stating what the correct measurements should be for the clutch and I can take pictures of the clutch using my caliper to prove everything is off!
I was on the phone with Jarrod from Textralia yesterday and we took caliper measurements of the entire clutch. The clutch is back from 2007 or later, it has a 10mm thick floater disk (old style). With the clutch assembled but not bolted down it should have 110 thousandths between the top of the post on the flywheel and the bottom of the pressure plate. It has about half of that! So basically Jarrod says the clutch is not right and would require a re-build with heavy machining/milling to get it to work. Also when the pressure plate is bolted down the fingers of the spring are supposed to be completely flat and you can tell in the pics that they are not. The pads however do measure close to what they should be new though so he has no idea what previous seller did (I think he has tried to rebuild clutch a few times).
I painted the clutch with 2000 deg paint because of a bunch of surface rust on flywheel but did not get any on friction surfaces (I am going to remove paint this weekend to prepare clutch to be returned to seller)
Something major is wrong with the clutch and I was told it was like new with 100 miles. Turns out seller installed clutch wrong (disks not lined up for even load), had engagement problems, and then sold it to me saying it was basically new. He is digging in his heals and doubt he will do the right thing and take his busted clutch back. I am going to have to take legal action. There was no shim installed behind slave on my car and clutch barely moved around on my driveway (it moved but did not grab hard at all…..about 10% as much grab as my textralia single disk )
Sellers picture of clutch installed wrong (disks not lined up): (causes uneven load) You can also see the surface rust on the clutch that was supposed to have 100 miles on it .
Seller had problems with engagement :
Where seller stated Condition:
btw I will do the 900 shipped Do you have pics of the clutch? I do not have pictures. I ran it for about 100 miles give or take a little then started parting out the car to go back to stock
I installed clutch using instructions from textralia. Disks are lined up properly and in correct order/the right direction. I used stock flywheel bolts and used red locktite on pressure plate bolts which I put at 60 ft lbs. I have an OEM slave and Tick master cylinder. If I put car in gear with e-brake on, I can still turn motor over with breaker bar because the clutch just doesn’t hold.
Instructions from textralia:
Here is it on my car from 2 days ago: (Clutch disks are lined up for even load)
Also the fingers on the pressure plate springs are supposed to be flat when clutch is torqued down. You can obviously see that they are not.
EDIT:Found out problem...not cool
RedHatRdRacer is a horrible seller and has committed internet fraud and wont answer my messages or refund my money. I am submitting all this evidence to my bank tomorrow and I was told they will reverse the funds. I can get Jarrod from textralia to send me a letter stating what the correct measurements should be for the clutch and I can take pictures of the clutch using my caliper to prove everything is off!
I was on the phone with Jarrod from Textralia yesterday and we took caliper measurements of the entire clutch. The clutch is back from 2007 or later, it has a 10mm thick floater disk (old style). With the clutch assembled but not bolted down it should have 110 thousandths between the top of the post on the flywheel and the bottom of the pressure plate. It has about half of that! So basically Jarrod says the clutch is not right and would require a re-build with heavy machining/milling to get it to work. Also when the pressure plate is bolted down the fingers of the spring are supposed to be completely flat and you can tell in the pics that they are not. The pads however do measure close to what they should be new though so he has no idea what previous seller did (I think he has tried to rebuild clutch a few times).
I painted the clutch with 2000 deg paint because of a bunch of surface rust on flywheel but did not get any on friction surfaces (I am going to remove paint this weekend to prepare clutch to be returned to seller)
Something major is wrong with the clutch and I was told it was like new with 100 miles. Turns out seller installed clutch wrong (disks not lined up for even load), had engagement problems, and then sold it to me saying it was basically new. He is digging in his heals and doubt he will do the right thing and take his busted clutch back. I am going to have to take legal action. There was no shim installed behind slave on my car and clutch barely moved around on my driveway (it moved but did not grab hard at all…..about 10% as much grab as my textralia single disk )
Sellers picture of clutch installed wrong (disks not lined up): (causes uneven load) You can also see the surface rust on the clutch that was supposed to have 100 miles on it .
Seller had problems with engagement :
I have a healthy 42x cid Iron motor, with a face-plated t56 I recently went from the SPEC 4 to a Textralia dual disk. I have the shimmed slave cylinder which is new (the plate SPEC provides with there clutch kits to make sure the slave is flush) I have a stock GM Master cylinder and the McCloud line....
When I crank the car I can put it in gear fine.... but i can leave it in gear and let off the clutch and even get out of the car (not literally) and the car WONT move...
I have bleed and bleed and bled the Slave... there is no air in it... I have ran 20oz of fluid threw it easily....
Would like to hear some ideas on whats up, WOULD LOVE to have this running by friday....
thanks in advance
Bryan
When I crank the car I can put it in gear fine.... but i can leave it in gear and let off the clutch and even get out of the car (not literally) and the car WONT move...
I have bleed and bleed and bled the Slave... there is no air in it... I have ran 20oz of fluid threw it easily....
Would like to hear some ideas on whats up, WOULD LOVE to have this running by friday....
thanks in advance
Bryan
Originally Posted by RedHatRdRacer
Originally Posted by AFASTYZFR1
Originally Posted by RedHatRdRacer
Originally Posted by AFASTYZFR1
Is your Textralia Twin Disk new? They are only $1250 shipped straight from Textralia. I would be able to possibly do $900 shipped, just thought I would ask.
Thanks,
Michael
Thanks,
Michael
btw I will do the 900 shipped
I installed clutch using instructions from textralia. Disks are lined up properly and in correct order/the right direction. I used stock flywheel bolts and used red locktite on pressure plate bolts which I put at 60 ft lbs. I have an OEM slave and Tick master cylinder. If I put car in gear with e-brake on, I can still turn motor over with breaker bar because the clutch just doesn’t hold.
Instructions from textralia:
Place loctite in the bolt holes, not on the bolt as it tends to get wiped off when installing the bolt through the pressure plate hat.
Torque the bolts to 55 lbs (stock GM spec).
The pressure plate is neutrally balanced, so orientation isn't an issue if you move it. But, try to keep it the way we sent it if you can, and the hat is usally set up "best" the way we send it.
Line the discs up so the plates are in line with one another, and the pucks aren't off a few splines. This allows for consistent loading on the clutch.
I am including pictures to ensure you re-assemble in the right order. They are numbered 1-2-3-4. The clutch discs should be marked also.
Torque the bolts to 55 lbs (stock GM spec).
The pressure plate is neutrally balanced, so orientation isn't an issue if you move it. But, try to keep it the way we sent it if you can, and the hat is usally set up "best" the way we send it.
Line the discs up so the plates are in line with one another, and the pucks aren't off a few splines. This allows for consistent loading on the clutch.
I am including pictures to ensure you re-assemble in the right order. They are numbered 1-2-3-4. The clutch discs should be marked also.
Here is it on my car from 2 days ago: (Clutch disks are lined up for even load)
Also the fingers on the pressure plate springs are supposed to be flat when clutch is torqued down. You can obviously see that they are not.
Last edited by AFASTYZFR1; 06-04-2010 at 01:31 AM.
05-31-2010, 02:33 PM
#2
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Slave is too long. You either have too much shim or too much slave. Or you have a major problem with that clutch and I highly doubt that is the issue. Did you measure for proper clearance?
05-31-2010, 02:51 PM
#3
Just went on info on here that said no shim was required.Bought the car awhile ago and it had a spec clutch in it. I replaced it with a Textralia Z-Grip about 2-years ago and it held great until I got more horsepower. I did not think there was a shim installed and didn't even check
Going to pull trans tom and check......is it possible I need a different slave other than stock? do they even make different sizes?
Last edited by AFASTYZFR1; 05-31-2010 at 04:57 PM.
05-31-2010, 07:24 PM
#6
05-31-2010, 10:27 PM
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If the clutch slips LMAO jk man. All joking aside, you can't. You just have to bite the bullet and pull her back apart. I would bet money that there is a shim since there was a SPEC in there previously.
Also, since it's coming apart anyway, now would be a good time to measure for proper clearance as well. It's really pretty simple and there is more than one great thread in here that describes in detail how to do it right.
Also, since it's coming apart anyway, now would be a good time to measure for proper clearance as well. It's really pretty simple and there is more than one great thread in here that describes in detail how to do it right.
06-01-2010, 05:49 AM
#9
If the clutch slips LMAO jk man. All joking aside, you can't. You just have to bite the bullet and pull her back apart. I would bet money that there is a shim since there was a SPEC in there previously.
Also, since it's coming apart anyway, now would be a good time to measure for proper clearance as well. It's really pretty simple and there is more than one great thread in here that describes in detail how to do it right.
Also, since it's coming apart anyway, now would be a good time to measure for proper clearance as well. It's really pretty simple and there is more than one great thread in here that describes in detail how to do it right.
pulling it back out today so hopefully thats the problem
06-01-2010, 02:17 PM
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Mesure everything! Leave the bell housing on the motor and measure from the fingers to the bell housing. Then measure with the slave fully compressed to the face of the trans were the bell housing bolts. That will tell you if something is out of wack. If the measurment you took off the clutch and bell housing is smaller the the other, you have a problem. Either the slave is messed up or there is a shim that is stuck to the bottom of the slave or something.
If the clutch/bell housing number is bigger as it should be, then it sounds like there is a problem with that clutch.
If the clutch/bell housing number is bigger as it should be, then it sounds like there is a problem with that clutch.
Last edited by raven154; 06-01-2010 at 02:23 PM.
06-02-2010, 05:52 AM
#12
Mesure everything! Leave the bell housing on the motor and measure from the fingers to the bell housing. Then measure with the slave fully compressed to the face of the trans were the bell housing bolts. That will tell you if something is out of wack. If the measurment you took off the clutch and bell housing is smaller the the other, you have a problem. Either the slave is messed up or there is a shim that is stuck to the bottom of the slave or something.
If the clutch/bell housing number is bigger as it should be, then it sounds like there is a problem with that clutch.
If the clutch/bell housing number is bigger as it should be, then it sounds like there is a problem with that clutch.
06-02-2010, 08:26 AM
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Are you sure there isn't a shim stuck to the bottom of the slave? It is possible that the slave is messed up. Have you gone down the the parts store and picked up another oem type slave just for comparisons sake?
06-02-2010, 08:54 AM
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There should be nothing under the slave at all. My guess is that was being used as a shim. Did you bolt it up and measure with nothing under the slave? Just metal to metal?