DTB_LS1

iTrader: (2)

I did a search and only come up with Rockland Gear. Does anyone know if I can get a tailshaft bushing at Napa or Autozone and possibly a part number?

thesource

iTrader: (60)

The exact bushing that comes in a GM t56 is not servicable by itself. You can modify a TH350 bushing to work though.

DTB_LS1

iTrader: (2)

I'm not sure if we're talking about the same part? I'm talking about the seal at the end of the tailshaft. I was my understanding that the seal is just a dust cover and there is a bushing behind it that actually holds the fluid in. I've read a few threads where people have just removed the tailshaft, popped the bushing/seal out, and pressed a new bushing/seal in.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

The Timken 5200 has the seal and the bushing in a set.



The seal is on the right, the bushing is on the slip-yoke.

The bushing replacement requires removal of the tailhousing. The seal can be R&R'd with the trans in the car and the driveshaft removed.

BarneyMobile

iTrader: (4)

Is this what you're talking about?

DTB_LS1

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, where can I buy this from?

Also does anyone have any tips on removing the tailhousing? I've got everything un bolted including the 2 hidden bolts on top and the housing won't budge. I can see that the builder used some type of rtv when installing it but its so tight that I can't even find a place to pry.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Autozone and other parts stores.

The roll pin in the offset shifter and the bolts...
There is a spot where you can pry the tailhousing away from the main case. Below the 2nd bolt from the bottom on the passenger side.

Z284U2TRY

iTrader: (5)

im not suggesting not to remove your tailshaft. But I placed mine with one from napa crushed the old one pulled it out. Froze the new one and tapped it in. I never removed the tailshaft.

TDP

iTrader: (23)

Wow, I never realized that you could buy these parts in a kit like this from a parts store. Good to know..
I've always purchased the parts individually from my local Tremec dealer.

thesource

iTrader: (60)

Its a TH350 bushing and seal. I've ran into issues where the housing bore is too tight for that bushing. You either have to remove some material from the housing or the outside of the bushing itself.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

I think that's common to alot of bushings, some even come with instructions to do a final hone on them for clearance.

The SSR bushing and SSR tailhousing (with installed bushing), both new from GM were both a few thousands's different. The separate bushing wouldn't even slip over the yoke as it shipped, but fits in the tailhousing and a quick hone brings it right into spec. You can tell that GM honed the bushing in the tailhousing before shipping also, as it's not as thick as the separate piece..

My $0.02

ed1le

iTrader: (3)

I've revived a few older threads on here today related to this topic inquiring about peoples results after replacing this bushing. Mostly b/c enough time has passed that there should be some inclusive results now as to which is best.
Still seeing mixed reviews on the Rockland bushing so I'm hesitant there, especially at over $30. The Timken 5200 seems to be a much safer and cost effective ($9 bushing & seal) option, no?
What are you using to hone the bushing once installed? I'm assuming it best to go to a machine shop so an equal amount is removed from entire bushing?