deelong4002

iTrader: (8)

I have a Monster Stage 3, Billet flywheel, Tick Master, and Remote bleeder, and a Pro 5.0 shifter.

My question is: Has anyone still had problems with the 2-3 shift at high rpms with this master? I have about 1000 miles now on the clutch and its finally starting to settle down when taking off, but now it has developed a bit of a squeak noise when taking off. engagement is fine, but it almost sounds like squeaky brakes would sound.

Everyone i see that has this or a similar setup, especially the Tick master exclaims how their car shifts like butter now. I really dont notice a difference. The shifter feels as notchy as ever and just as hard to engage as before the tick master was installed. I bled the hell out of the system, it is essentially all brand new, new master, slave, remote bleeder, fluid. DOT IV fluid.

Any insights? Are my synchro's gone? I definately have a clunking feeling at low speeds shifting gears, which i have researched and appears to be fairly common (although it drives me up the ******* wall). I'm looking into possibly rebuilding the trans next winter. But it doesnt grind gears at all under normal circumstances, its just very very hard to get into gear at high rpms, just as it was before.

Maybe i will go home and run a whole bottle of brake fluid through the hydraulics just to alleviate any thought of bleeding problems. Is there a better way to bleed it? The remote bleeder is run up into the engine compartment and tied off laying on top of the strut tower.

steveo_f8

iTrader: (6)

I'm no expert but it could be in the trans. Make sure you adjust the m/c correctly. I just put one in my car about two weeks ago. Adjusting it took a few times out drivng it around. At first high rpm shifts didnt change for me either but after a couple more adjustments it works awesome now. Make sure the jam nuts on the turnbuckle aren't loosening up on you and screwing with the adjustment? Tryinging to bleed the system is a good idea too. Good luck

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

How many miles on the trans? If you're being blocked out of gears, either the clutch is dragging, there's air trapped in the hyd system or the blocker rings in the trans are worn out. Park the car on a flat surface, put it in 1st gear with your foot on the clutch and rev the engine to just below the rev limiter. If the car creeps forward at all, your clutch is dragging and you need to readjust the master cyl for more release. If it doesn't move, I would put my money on worn blocker rings....time for a rebuild.

deelong4002

iTrader: (8)

I did this when i initially installed everything, and its def not dragging.

I just bled the hell out of it, and did it the old fashion way, cause i'm not sure i trust the speed bleeder, so i involved the girlfriend. I guess i'll take it out and see what's up.

Dave-1970

Hmm, try relocating your speedbleeder BELOW your clutch master cylinder (resevoir) when bleeding, and then follow bleeding procedures per manufacturer's specifications. You might be letting air back in the line since you may have the bleeder end above your whole clutch setup...???

Chris05ssTruck

iTrader: (9)

The speed bleeder is not letting the air in.
It sounds like you need to adjust that master or you have air in the system.

deelong4002

iTrader: (8)

I really think that i have some trapped air in the system that isnt comming out with the normal bleeding. I may (god i hope not) need to remove the master and bench bleed it. It is definately adusted all the way out, per the instructions. If anyting, its adjusted farther out than it should be, which scares me cause i dont want to overextend the slave.

I bled a bunch of fluid out yesterday and was suprised to find that fluid with about 1k miles on it, was already turning green. This is DOT IV fluid, in all BRAND NEW hydraulics. The only thing not brand new is the resevoir, which was thoroughly cleansed before being reinstalled.

I'm really starting to lean toward a problem with the trans itself. It has brand new Dex III valvoline ATF. Is there something better that i should put in there?

Justins00ss

iTrader: (18)

Well to answer your squealing question. I assume it only does it from a take off? If thats the case then its just the clutch has been glazed a little from stop and go driving. Once you get your other issues resolved go and do a nice burnout or drop the hammer a few times. These clutches like to be beat on.

deelong4002

iTrader: (8)

You know what, i figured this was the issue with the sqealing because its not a constant thing, and the clutch still grips great. I really cant wait to get a rear in this car that is worth a damn, so that i can give the clutch the abuse it deserves. But i suppose i could get on it a bit more, its just hard where i live, cause the police are waiting around every corner, trying to make revenue for thier next paycheck. God knows the drugs and robbery in Detroit arent going to do it. lol

Justins00ss

iTrader: (18)

I hear ya man. I rebuilt my 10bolt last year just so I could have the car for the summer. Well next thing ya know my trans/clutch need work so there goes more money. Then I get this badass clutch in the car and the rear starts making noise again. I said screw it and last week installed a Moser 9inch in the car. Got a good deal on a used one and a Sphon chromoly drive shaft. Ill tell ya what its nice having that piece of mind knowing my drivetrain is solid now. Good luck with it man.

Chris05ssTruck

iTrader: (9)

I know about that piece of mind. Drove mine 1 hour to the power tour in Mobile yesterday, then to the track afterwards. And then drove home. MWC FAB 9' and Monster Stage 6.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

how high rpm are we talking? 6500ish or above 7,000?