98ZEMT

iTrader: (5)

Hello all. I'm doing my swap on the 26th of this month. I already have the auto out. Boy that was a bitch. Anyway, just want to go over some things to make sure I get this right the first time. This car IS a 98. I know they are different in wiring than any other f-body ever made. 1. What bolts are reusable? Bellhousing to engine? Flywheel bolts? 2. I gather that in order to get reverse lockout to work(yes, I want it to work) I need to move pcm pin 61 to pin 42 location. Then hook that wire to one end of the reverse lockout pigtail and the other goes to a pink wire for the rear o2s? Am I right? Or does the other wire go to ground? 3. I also have to ground out one of the wires from the pcm for the clutch anticipation switch. Which pin needs to be grounded? Keep in mind this is for a 98. Thanks to all. Pics of old crap included.

98ZEMT

iTrader: (5)

Anyone? Really just want some reassurance.

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

I'll try my best to answer your questions, but the stickies are your friends. I just did my 98 about 2 weeks ago, only took about 7 hours total from drving in A4 to driving out M6 (this is my 4th time though).

- Bellhousing to engine bolts are identical. Reuse them.
- Flywheel bolts are identical, but I would replace them just in case. They are like $2 each at a dealer.
- You're right about the reverse lockout. You will want to wire the +12v to the reverse lights instead of the O2's to avoid blowing fuses.
- For your reverse lights AND reverse lockout, pep boys has the pigtail for $7.
- Clutch anticipation switch needs to be wired to the same ones listed in the sticky, (do not ground one of these wires!) I think its purple w/white and dark green. Or just connect them together. If you want to use the clutch switch, try and get the plug for it off of a wrecked M6 car and wire it to the P/N override (order does not matter)This makes a difference in tuning, since you are keeping the A4 harness you car will think it is in PARK all the time if you combine those two wires with no switch. So make sure you edit your tables to make P/N the same as IN GEAR.


Some other things I would do if I were you for a 98:
-If you got an M6 console from a later year, your cigraette lighter has a different plug, you will need to swap them.
-The 98 starter is a BITCH to remove, they used 15mm bolts instead of 13mm like the later years. What does this mean? It means when you go to remove one of the starter bolts you will need a thin walled socket or you will end up having to cut the plastic shrould like I did in orer to fit the socket on there.

And finally, some questions. How do you plan to tune the car? Did you go ahead and buy and aftermarket master cylinder while you're doing this? How about a remote bleeder? If you're not on too tight of a budget I would reccomend these, it will make your life easier in the long run.

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

Also some other things, if you use a cutoff wheel or anything that makes sparks, be very careful as the sound deadener under the carpet catched fire really easily. I also HIGHLY reccomend you cut a tiny hole for the shifter and make it bigger after so you can use your #6 boot, otherwise all the hot air will get in the cabin of the car from underneath.

98ZEMT

iTrader: (5)

Ok. Already got the starter out. I have a tuner I use down the road from me that has a mustang dyno and hp tuners software. Like I said, I really want to make my reverse lockout work. I won't be the only one driving this car and I would be extremely pissed if someone(my girl) decided to shove my tranny into reverse at 80. So you are saying swap pin61 for 42 and then use the reverse lights wiring for the other? I thought it had to be a 12 v source? So do not use the rear o2 pink wire?

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

My bad I was thinking of the CAGS. Yeah use the pink wire, or any other 12v source. Personally I would prefer to tap off of something else like a cigarette lighter because I don't like the idea of blowing fuses. You will need to double check the pins I'm not entirely sure if 98 is different since I never planned to use reverse lockout myself. The lockout is grounded by the PCM so you could even just ground a wire and run it to a switch supplied to 12v. I have run 3 cars now with the lockout spring removed, and I can tell you that even purposely trying to hit reverse it was impossible.

Other than that, the only advice I can give you is be very, very careful cutting the firewall. If you cut too big or stress it too much it will crack and you will have a hell of a time fixing it (ask me how I know).

As far as your tuner, hopefully he has changed the PCM for stuff like this before, because I know I ended up with 02's that didn't work and IAT maxed out for a while until I figured out the P/N thing.

98ZEMT

iTrader: (5)

LOL. How do you know?! I can imagine that would suck. I'll start small and work my way up. Thank you for all the info. I read the stickies but there is just so much info I really wanted to get it down right. Too much stuff to wade through to figure it out for my car.

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

Well if you have any questions PM me, I have done it a few times like I said and will be more than happy to share my mistakes and discoveries. Theres a lot that isn't in the sticky so I had to just wing it.

98ZEMT

iTrader: (5)

Ok. I think I finally have it. I looked through the stickies and noticed that pin 32 has to be put to ground for 99 up cars. That is for the clutch anticipation switch. Thats the white switch on the top of the pedal. Not the black switch nearer to the floor. But if I read right, there isn't a spot on the pcm for a clutch anticipation switch. So just connect the wires inline with the brake anticipation switch. Correct? That way cruise control cuts off when you press the clutch also.

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

I'm not sure of the names of the switches, but you want the one that has to be depressed with the clutch in wired to the purple and green to start the car with the clutch in. The one that is depressed with the clutch out for the cruise control is not necessary at all, but you could wire it in series with the brake anticipation switch on the actual brake pedal if you wanted to. Most people don't use it. It will just act the same way as if you had an A4 and put it in neutral by accident with the cruise on, it will rev and scare the **** out of you and you won't do it again lol.

98ZEMT

iTrader: (5)

Ok. That's what I thought I read. I'll just wire it inline with the brake switch then. 99 ups require a wire off the pcm. I guess us 98 guys get lucky for once!!

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

I personally didn't put either on haha, I just run it without the switches. Thats my personal preference though. I still need to wire up my reverse lights for like 2 weeks now