how much horse to the wheels should my stock t56 be good for?
06-19-2010, 12:35 PM
#3
The stock T56 is pretty strong. I've put 600rwhp/tq through it with out a problem. My trans has since been upgraded with Tick's level 2 rebuild. The most common weak points in the T56 are the syncros, and the 3-4 shift fork. If all you do is highway pulls then your stock T56 will be fine. If you go to the track often then you'll definately want to upgrade a few things so your not taken down syncro. When you start getting above 600rwhp, you may want to start looking at getting stronger input/out shafts (Viper spec).
06-20-2010, 10:56 PM
#4
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Let me just say a few things to help you guys out.
1. Getting a 3-4 steel shift fork, billet keys, bronz pads and carbon syncros will NOT make your trans able to handle more power!
2. What a m6 t56 can take before it breaks dep. on a few things...
A. Weight of vehicle
B. What rpm you are dumping the clutch at because of shock load and power output
C. What type of clutch you have.
D. What kind of tire you are using
3. Heat, lack of oil or dirty oil is the #1 killer of t56's
4. Having the wrong size drive shaft in the car will cause bent or broken mains.
A. A C5 and C6 corvette has the same size out put shaft as a stock t56. How many of you guys have seen them launch there cars or make more power then a fbody car and still work ok? There main shaft doesn't more much because it's attached to the diff.
B. A lot of people think that when you get a new 9" or 12 bolt you can use the same old drive shaft and change the u-joint to a 1310/1350 split joint. Or get a drive shaft that's the same size as there old one. You need to check the size of it and should be about 5/8" play when the car is at ride height. The split u joint can also throw off the ballanced of the drive shaft. Most people never get them re weighted.
5. All the after market parts they sell in a kit -viper shaft are only for shifting. The billet keys, bronze pads, 3/4 steel fork and carbon blocker rings are only to help in SHIFTING! The gears from a built trans level 1-50 are the same parts from the same maker until you get stuff from gforce and stuff. dumAlso I don't know how some people thing that they shift while still making power... Almost everyone pushes the clutch down to shift unless rey have a slipper clutch or face plated trans. Since that is the case you could use a stock t56 to go really fast and make a lot of power. My stock trans saw over 800rwhp on the streets.
I'm not saying to not get your trans built, I'm trying to say that people don't understand how it works and go get stuff done that they don't need. I don't think there are a lot of trans shops that will tell you this because what you don't know and they do is there advantage.
The limiting parts of a m6 trans goes as fallows, Main shaft then input shaft or gear. So upgrading to a viper shaft is the best thing as far as making power safely through your t56. After that you will need custom gears and a custom main shaft.
I highly rec getting the billet keys to replace the stock stamped ones, replace the plastic fork pads with the bronze ones, and carbon blocker rings to replacr the stock paper ones.
1. Getting a 3-4 steel shift fork, billet keys, bronz pads and carbon syncros will NOT make your trans able to handle more power!
2. What a m6 t56 can take before it breaks dep. on a few things...
A. Weight of vehicle
B. What rpm you are dumping the clutch at because of shock load and power output
C. What type of clutch you have.
D. What kind of tire you are using
3. Heat, lack of oil or dirty oil is the #1 killer of t56's
4. Having the wrong size drive shaft in the car will cause bent or broken mains.
A. A C5 and C6 corvette has the same size out put shaft as a stock t56. How many of you guys have seen them launch there cars or make more power then a fbody car and still work ok? There main shaft doesn't more much because it's attached to the diff.
B. A lot of people think that when you get a new 9" or 12 bolt you can use the same old drive shaft and change the u-joint to a 1310/1350 split joint. Or get a drive shaft that's the same size as there old one. You need to check the size of it and should be about 5/8" play when the car is at ride height. The split u joint can also throw off the ballanced of the drive shaft. Most people never get them re weighted.
5. All the after market parts they sell in a kit -viper shaft are only for shifting. The billet keys, bronze pads, 3/4 steel fork and carbon blocker rings are only to help in SHIFTING! The gears from a built trans level 1-50 are the same parts from the same maker until you get stuff from gforce and stuff. dumAlso I don't know how some people thing that they shift while still making power... Almost everyone pushes the clutch down to shift unless rey have a slipper clutch or face plated trans. Since that is the case you could use a stock t56 to go really fast and make a lot of power. My stock trans saw over 800rwhp on the streets.
I'm not saying to not get your trans built, I'm trying to say that people don't understand how it works and go get stuff done that they don't need. I don't think there are a lot of trans shops that will tell you this because what you don't know and they do is there advantage.
The limiting parts of a m6 trans goes as fallows, Main shaft then input shaft or gear. So upgrading to a viper shaft is the best thing as far as making power safely through your t56. After that you will need custom gears and a custom main shaft.
I highly rec getting the billet keys to replace the stock stamped ones, replace the plastic fork pads with the bronze ones, and carbon blocker rings to replacr the stock paper ones.
Last edited by haighter; 06-24-2010 at 05:17 PM. Reason: WTF dum?
06-21-2010, 10:41 AM
#7
Launching!
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I typed that and this one on my iPhone. Lap top is in for repairs.
The other thing that you never hear about it the pilot bearing. That should be changed every time you change the clutch. Reason being is it's a $20 part to change and if it goes out and does damage to you input shaft it's will be around $800 to fix it if you pay someone to do it. The dust from the clutch can get inside and dryes up the grease. Also I have repaired quite a few trans because the pilot went out and it took out the counter shaft and threw parts into the trans from the teeth breaking off. Just yank the old one out with a puller and install the new one correclty.
The other thing that you never hear about it the pilot bearing. That should be changed every time you change the clutch. Reason being is it's a $20 part to change and if it goes out and does damage to you input shaft it's will be around $800 to fix it if you pay someone to do it. The dust from the clutch can get inside and dryes up the grease. Also I have repaired quite a few trans because the pilot went out and it took out the counter shaft and threw parts into the trans from the teeth breaking off. Just yank the old one out with a puller and install the new one correclty.
Last edited by haighter; 06-21-2010 at 10:50 AM.
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06-22-2010, 07:37 AM
#9
CARTEK Racing
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My stock t56 took 500+RWHP, 7000rpm launches with a CARTEK clutch and 7000rpm shifts for years and years... never failed. Sitting in the garage in perfect working order.
06-22-2010, 07:41 AM
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I thought i read somewhere that the T-56 was good to something like 800hp. The syncros and shift forks should be changed out at any HP if you can since they are weak to begin with. I plan to change mine out in the not so distant future. But the gears themselves are relatively strong.
06-24-2010, 08:25 AM
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I typed that and this one on my iPhone. Lap top is in for repairs.
The other thing that you never hear about it the pilot bearing. That should be changed every time you change the clutch. Reason being is it's a $20 part to change and if it goes out and does damage to you input shaft it's will be around $800 to fix it if you pay someone to do it. The dust from the clutch can get inside and dryes up the grease. Also I have repaired quite a few trans because the pilot went out and it took out the counter shaft and threw parts into the trans from the teeth breaking off. Just yank the old one out with a puller and install the new one correclty.
The other thing that you never hear about it the pilot bearing. That should be changed every time you change the clutch. Reason being is it's a $20 part to change and if it goes out and does damage to you input shaft it's will be around $800 to fix it if you pay someone to do it. The dust from the clutch can get inside and dryes up the grease. Also I have repaired quite a few trans because the pilot went out and it took out the counter shaft and threw parts into the trans from the teeth breaking off. Just yank the old one out with a puller and install the new one correclty.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...eed-parts.html
06-24-2010, 03:31 PM
#16
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Let me just say a few things to help you guys out. dum
1. Getting a 3-4 steel shift fork, billet keys, bronz pads and carbon syncros will NOT make your trans able to handle more power!
2. What a m6 t56 can take before it breaks dep. on a few things...
dumdum A. Weight of vehicle
dumdum B. What rpm you are dumping the clutch at because of shock load and power output
dumdum C. What type of clutch you have.dum
dumdum D. What kind of tire you are using
3. Heat, lack of oil or dirty oil is the #1 killer of t56's
4. Having the wrong size drive shaft in the car will cause bent or broken mains.dum
dumdum A. A C5 and C6 corvette has the same size out put shaft as a stock t56. How many of you guys have seen them launch there cars or make more power then a fbody car and still work ok? dumThere main shaft doesn't more much because it's attached to the diff.dum
dumdum B. A lot of people think that when you get a new 9" or 12 bolt you can use the same old drive shaft and change the u-joint to a 1310/1350 split joint. Or get a drive shaft that's the same size as there old one. You need to check the size of it and should be about 5/8" play when the car is at ride height. The split u joint can also throw off the ballanced of the drive shaft. Most people never get them re weighted.dum
5. All the after market parts they sell in a kit -viper shaft are only for shifting. The billet keys, bronze pads, 3/4 steel fork and carbon blocker rings are only to help in SHIFTING! The gears from a built trans level 1-50 are the same parts from the same maker until you get stuff from gforce and stuff. dumAlso I don't know how some people thing that they shift while still making power... dumAlmost everyone pushes the clutch down to shift unless rey have a slipper clutch or face plated trans. Since that is the case you could use a stock t56 to go really fast and make a lot of power. My stock trans saw over 800rwhp on the streets.dum
I'm not saying to not get your trans built, I'm trying to say that people don't understand how it works and go get stuff done that they don't need. I don't think there are a lot of trans shops that will tell you this because what you don't know and they do is there advantage.dum
The limiting parts of a m6 trans goes as fallows, Main shaft then input shaft or gear. So upgrading to a viper shaft is the best thing as far as making power safely through your t56. After that you will need custom gears and a custom main shaft. dum
I highly rec getting the billet keys to replace the stock stamped ones, replace the plastic fork pads with the bronze ones, and carbon blocker rings to replacr the stock paper ones.dum
dumdum dum
1. Getting a 3-4 steel shift fork, billet keys, bronz pads and carbon syncros will NOT make your trans able to handle more power!
2. What a m6 t56 can take before it breaks dep. on a few things...
dumdum A. Weight of vehicle
dumdum B. What rpm you are dumping the clutch at because of shock load and power output
dumdum C. What type of clutch you have.dum
dumdum D. What kind of tire you are using
3. Heat, lack of oil or dirty oil is the #1 killer of t56's
4. Having the wrong size drive shaft in the car will cause bent or broken mains.dum
dumdum A. A C5 and C6 corvette has the same size out put shaft as a stock t56. How many of you guys have seen them launch there cars or make more power then a fbody car and still work ok? dumThere main shaft doesn't more much because it's attached to the diff.dum
dumdum B. A lot of people think that when you get a new 9" or 12 bolt you can use the same old drive shaft and change the u-joint to a 1310/1350 split joint. Or get a drive shaft that's the same size as there old one. You need to check the size of it and should be about 5/8" play when the car is at ride height. The split u joint can also throw off the ballanced of the drive shaft. Most people never get them re weighted.dum
5. All the after market parts they sell in a kit -viper shaft are only for shifting. The billet keys, bronze pads, 3/4 steel fork and carbon blocker rings are only to help in SHIFTING! The gears from a built trans level 1-50 are the same parts from the same maker until you get stuff from gforce and stuff. dumAlso I don't know how some people thing that they shift while still making power... dumAlmost everyone pushes the clutch down to shift unless rey have a slipper clutch or face plated trans. Since that is the case you could use a stock t56 to go really fast and make a lot of power. My stock trans saw over 800rwhp on the streets.dum
I'm not saying to not get your trans built, I'm trying to say that people don't understand how it works and go get stuff done that they don't need. I don't think there are a lot of trans shops that will tell you this because what you don't know and they do is there advantage.dum
The limiting parts of a m6 trans goes as fallows, Main shaft then input shaft or gear. So upgrading to a viper shaft is the best thing as far as making power safely through your t56. After that you will need custom gears and a custom main shaft. dum
I highly rec getting the billet keys to replace the stock stamped ones, replace the plastic fork pads with the bronze ones, and carbon blocker rings to replacr the stock paper ones.dum
dumdum dum
06-24-2010, 05:22 PM
#17
Launching!
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Good info. I think waaay too many guys get locked into the "how much horsepower?" question and don't pay enough attention to a lot of what you said, ESPECIALLY the parts about side-stepping the clutch from a standing start with sticky tires. Sticky tires and sudden, violent, high shock loads are a couple things that can destroy trannys in a hurry.
The only mods you can do to make it hold more power is going with a viper shaft vs stock shaft. The m6 with a viper shaft is stronger then a nm12 or m10 because of the 1-4 gears and the tooth count.
Last edited by haighter; 06-24-2010 at 05:27 PM.
06-25-2010, 09:53 AM
#20
I typed that and this one on my iPhone. Lap top is in for repairs.
The other thing that you never hear about it the pilot bearing. That should be changed every time you change the clutch. Reason being is it's a $20 part to change and if it goes out and does damage to you input shaft it's will be around $800 to fix it if you pay someone to do it. The dust from the clutch can get inside and dryes up the grease. Also I have repaired quite a few trans because the pilot went out and it took out the counter shaft and threw parts into the trans from the teeth breaking off. Just yank the old one out with a puller and install the new one correclty.
The other thing that you never hear about it the pilot bearing. That should be changed every time you change the clutch. Reason being is it's a $20 part to change and if it goes out and does damage to you input shaft it's will be around $800 to fix it if you pay someone to do it. The dust from the clutch can get inside and dryes up the grease. Also I have repaired quite a few trans because the pilot went out and it took out the counter shaft and threw parts into the trans from the teeth breaking off. Just yank the old one out with a puller and install the new one correclty.
