My clutch finally feels right
07-19-2010, 10:52 PM
#1
My clutch finally feels right I finally have my sticky clutch problem solved.
(2 yrs ago) I started with a new slave and confirmed line was drilled: no change, stuck to floor at high rpm. had to wait several minutes to be able to shift to any gear.
(Last winter) Replaced master with tilton 1" and aftermarket line: Much improved but pedal still had to be pulled up at high rpm and sunk when held for long periods of time.
(Last Summer) Bled it even more: Same
(This Spring) New LS7 pressure plate/flywheel/clutch disk, remote bleeder, slave, rebuilt master: Even more improvement but would stick halfway on high rpm shifts. I could pull it up with my foot and it would shift normal, if i didn't, i would occasionally get clutch slippage.
(This summer) Removed stock clutch pedal spring: hallelujah the damn thing shifts like a dream. This was the final piece to the puzzle. I think the old *** spring (165k miles) was keeping the pedal from returning all the way. I noticed when i did not have a master cylinder in the car, the spring would push the pedal down to the firewall when it was around halfway down, or it would push it almost all the way up when it was above the halfway point. However now I can hit several gears in a row shifting at red line with no problems.
I was 1 step away from buying the $350 hydraulic bearing.
I wonder what removing the spring would do on a clutch with stock hydraulics..
(2 yrs ago) I started with a new slave and confirmed line was drilled: no change, stuck to floor at high rpm. had to wait several minutes to be able to shift to any gear.
(Last winter) Replaced master with tilton 1" and aftermarket line: Much improved but pedal still had to be pulled up at high rpm and sunk when held for long periods of time.
(Last Summer) Bled it even more: Same
(This Spring) New LS7 pressure plate/flywheel/clutch disk, remote bleeder, slave, rebuilt master: Even more improvement but would stick halfway on high rpm shifts. I could pull it up with my foot and it would shift normal, if i didn't, i would occasionally get clutch slippage.
(This summer) Removed stock clutch pedal spring: hallelujah the damn thing shifts like a dream. This was the final piece to the puzzle. I think the old *** spring (165k miles) was keeping the pedal from returning all the way. I noticed when i did not have a master cylinder in the car, the spring would push the pedal down to the firewall when it was around halfway down, or it would push it almost all the way up when it was above the halfway point. However now I can hit several gears in a row shifting at red line with no problems.
I was 1 step away from buying the $350 hydraulic bearing.
I wonder what removing the spring would do on a clutch with stock hydraulics..
07-20-2010, 08:06 PM
#3
They didn't have them in the lt1 cars. I think they added it to compensate for a week hydraulic system, maybe due to the restriction in the line..
Can anyone confirm that the spring will pull the pedal to the floor beyond half way down when no master is connected?
I am not sure how the stock hydraulic would react to not having a spring.
Can anyone confirm that the spring will pull the pedal to the floor beyond half way down when no master is connected?
I am not sure how the stock hydraulic would react to not having a spring.
08-24-2010, 08:49 PM
#5
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a tick master cylinder and it says in the instructions to remove it for better pedal feel. My pedal is solid thru out the range. I don't think u need it.
Trending Topics
08-28-2010, 07:09 PM
#8
On The Tree
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Port Saint John, Florida
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes, the pedal will be pulled to the floor.
( I just changed my leaking master today and noticed this reaction when moving things around to line up the u-bolt )