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Driveshaft Choice Pics of broken one

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Old 08-13-2010, 12:11 AM
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Default Driveshaft Choice Pics of broken one

Ok well recently dynoed my car and broke bunch of stuff while on there. The ds is bent i guess from when it hit its not broken into 2 pieces like I've seen some on here. Car is an M6. Was pushing like 340 to the wheels nothing major. The rear pinion yoke is broken its missing one whole side of it that was broken off. My trans broke the bellhousing along with the tailshaft. It has rubber MM mounts and poly trans mount. I am trying to decide which ds to go for a stock alum one like the one I had which I can get for 100 buck or an aftermarket one like sphon or strange driveshafts. I have stock 10 bolt. Any suggestions?
Attached Thumbnails Driveshaft Choice Pics of broken one-2010-08-10-18.50.07.jpg   Driveshaft Choice Pics of broken one-2010-08-10-18.59.43.jpg   Driveshaft Choice Pics of broken one-2010-08-10-18.59.21.jpg  

Last edited by lazyhomie; 08-13-2010 at 12:56 AM.
Old 08-13-2010, 04:08 AM
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get aluminum one for now and then when you upgrade your drivetrain upgrade to a steel one
Old 08-13-2010, 08:02 AM
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I roll with a Denny's 3" Steel DS (Nitrous Ready brand) and a Moser 12 Bolt with the upgraded Yoke. No issues except that damn Tru Trac.
Old 08-13-2010, 05:02 PM
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Should I go stock aluminum or aftermarket one? I'm just afraid if I get another stock alum one that the same thing will happen to me all over again.
Old 08-13-2010, 05:37 PM
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The third gen aluminum shafts were strong. The LS1 f-body aluminum shafts are thinner wall and vibration-damped with cardboard.

Go aftermarket.
Old 08-13-2010, 07:56 PM
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I'm making a little over 380 hp to the wheels with a M6 and 10 blot, and I've never had a problem. I say just get another stock one and get yourself back on the road
Old 08-14-2010, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Cumbias
get aluminum one for now and then when you upgrade your drivetrain upgrade to a steel one
Do you suggest a steel one for the cost? There are lightweight aluminum shafts out there that hold tons of power. I myself just sold a 3.5" BMR aluminum driveshaft because it was a little too short. I ended up buying another 3.5" aluminum one from The Driveshaft Shop that is suppused to hold 1200 horsepower.
Old 10-06-2010, 09:05 PM
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Sorry for being late. Had no internet acces for a while.

The one you got should hold up fine if its rated for 1200. But Aluminum does yield faster to metal fatigue than Steel. Its simply part of its physical properties. Not telling you steel is a better choice in every situation, but a steel one will usually last longer and handle more power than an aluminum one of the same size.
Old 10-14-2010, 11:37 AM
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I broke my factory aluminum on last year at the track. I am around 310 at the rear but had slicks on. I bought a PST 3.5" Through Exotic performance. So far I am really satisfied with it. They are a sponser here so take a look at them. I also liked it because they had it all measured for my Moser 9" with right u joints.
Old 10-14-2010, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jmd
The third gen aluminum shafts were strong. The LS1 f-body aluminum shafts are thinner wall and vibration-damped with cardboard.

Go aftermarket.
This is correct. They are called the 3rd gen 1LE shafts. Much better shaft than the LS1 shaft.



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