Aluminum flywheel, yey or ney...
08-24-2010, 07:26 PM
#1
Aluminum flywheel, yey or ney... Please post up if you have an aluminum flywheel. I've heard every reason not to but I haven't honestly talked to that many people that actually have aluminum flywheels. I've got a Billet Steel flywheel at the moment matted to a Spec Stage 3 which I freakin hate. So I've debated on going Aluminum flywheel with a Ram HD. The McLeod is just outta my price range I think. I drive the car on the street 90% of the time but I've been known to hit up a test and tune here and there. I love rev matching and the "road racing" type driving bangin through gears on the back roads. I'll be visiting the Tail of the Dragon as well this fall.
What's the opinions on the aluminum flywheels? Worth it or should I just keep my incredibly heavy Billet steel one?!
What's the opinions on the aluminum flywheels? Worth it or should I just keep my incredibly heavy Billet steel one?!
08-24-2010, 09:37 PM
#2
Launching!
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i have a Spec 3+ with an aluminum flywheel and it definitely revs quicker. No doubt about that. Performance difference is a little bit harder to quantify. I have tracked the car once with it, autox'd it a whole bunch and made 25 or so passes at the dragstrip with it. The car is a typical mild head/cam car that runs mid 11's in good air and will mph at 119+.
The most notable difference I have is that it requires a little more throttle to get the car moving in normal around town driving. At the drag strip it requires a whole bunch more launch rpm if you are on sticky tires and snapping the clutch out. At full weight on ET Streets my car needed 5,000 rpm minimum but really liked 5,500 rpm-6,000 rpm to launch and not bog the motor the second the clutch came out and the tires hooked. I can't say it made the car faster or slowed it down compared to the steel flywheel, I never had it to the track with the steel flywheel.
During an autox when you are in 2nd gear (mostly) the motor hustles up and down through the rpms very easy. Again on the launch you have to leave a little harder to prevent bogging.
A few years ago I think Car Craft or one of the other mags did a back to back comparo of this whole debate (same car, the only change was the flywheel, as best I can remember) and their finding was that as long as you had the ability to extend the rpm range (higher launch rpm) of the engine you could benefit from the aluminum. This was at the very edge of performance though. In daily driving, I don't think there is much of an actual performance benefit to be realized, it does rev quickly though and sounds cool doing it.
That's my experience.....having driven my car with an aluminum flywheel now, I'll stay with one. I don't drag race the car anymore and it doesn't see lots daily driver duty. If either of those were the case, I'd probably go back to a steel flywheel. The performance difference is small and even then its at the very edge of things.
Chris
The most notable difference I have is that it requires a little more throttle to get the car moving in normal around town driving. At the drag strip it requires a whole bunch more launch rpm if you are on sticky tires and snapping the clutch out. At full weight on ET Streets my car needed 5,000 rpm minimum but really liked 5,500 rpm-6,000 rpm to launch and not bog the motor the second the clutch came out and the tires hooked. I can't say it made the car faster or slowed it down compared to the steel flywheel, I never had it to the track with the steel flywheel.
During an autox when you are in 2nd gear (mostly) the motor hustles up and down through the rpms very easy. Again on the launch you have to leave a little harder to prevent bogging.
A few years ago I think Car Craft or one of the other mags did a back to back comparo of this whole debate (same car, the only change was the flywheel, as best I can remember) and their finding was that as long as you had the ability to extend the rpm range (higher launch rpm) of the engine you could benefit from the aluminum. This was at the very edge of performance though. In daily driving, I don't think there is much of an actual performance benefit to be realized, it does rev quickly though and sounds cool doing it.
That's my experience.....having driven my car with an aluminum flywheel now, I'll stay with one. I don't drag race the car anymore and it doesn't see lots daily driver duty. If either of those were the case, I'd probably go back to a steel flywheel. The performance difference is small and even then its at the very edge of things.
Chris
08-26-2010, 09:34 PM
#3
On The Tree
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Flywheel Keep your steel flywheel.....the only time you might even think about using the aluminum flywheel is for large CI motors. Steel holds more stored energy at launch, is less prone to warpage and smooths out the idle on a large cam.....
08-30-2010, 01:02 PM
#6
tbird, I can only assume that you don't like the smaller engagement window and more agressive engagement of the stage 3 clutch. I am not sure why you opted for this option over a more street friendly Stage especially considering that you do 90% street driving. Whatever the reason the Aluminum flywheel will have a more racy feel than the steel you you have now. It will require more RPM when leaving from a stop and will also allow the RPM's to fall of faster when the clutch is depressed. Maybe there is someone local that will let you take a ride/drive in their car with an aluminum wheel. This way you can have a better idea of what to expect. The last thing I want you to do is get it and then be unhappy with the way it feels.
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09-01-2010, 08:03 AM
#8
SPEC-01, you're exactly right...I find myself getting so frustrated at lights or in stop/go traffic because of the excessive chatter the Stage 3 produces I want to get on and off the clutch or just halfway dump it from the light to avoid it. I know how to drive a manual, it's all I've driven for the past 7 years of owning my car, but it's quite aggravating having so much chatter and a lack of street friendlyness. The only reason I got the clutch was because I traded a bunch of cash plus the clutch (which only had 500 miles on it, for my old set of CCW 505A's while I was building my latest setup.
The Spec 3 once engaged however is an amazingly grippy clutch. When racing, street or strip, I've notice I've been able to bark 3rd gear VERY easily under WOT which never happened with my old clutch.
The Spec 3 once engaged however is an amazingly grippy clutch. When racing, street or strip, I've notice I've been able to bark 3rd gear VERY easily under WOT which never happened with my old clutch.
09-01-2010, 07:19 PM
#9
I've been running an aluminum flywheel for a couple years with an OZ700 Tex. Absolutely love it. I can get the car rolling on a flat without even touching the gas while keeping the tach at about 700-800rpm, and aside from it being a bit more off/on than other flywheel/clutch setups I've driven in other f-bodies (which I don't have a problem with at all, I actually like the binary nature more), I haven't had any issues.
The only benefit I can see from running a steel flywheel (from reading a bit, and talking to some pro stock and funny car guys in the NHRA circuit) is launching at a drag strip. The aluminum is better in any other situation - it weighs less, so it'll allow faster acceleration when compared to the same setup with a steel flywheel, and it's easier to rev-match downshifts because, again, it weighs less and requires less power to spin up.
I guess one can make the argument that a steel flywheel is better for a street car (aiding in dampening engine vibrations), but once you get used to the lighter aluminum flywheel, you won't miss the steel one.
The only benefit I can see from running a steel flywheel (from reading a bit, and talking to some pro stock and funny car guys in the NHRA circuit) is launching at a drag strip. The aluminum is better in any other situation - it weighs less, so it'll allow faster acceleration when compared to the same setup with a steel flywheel, and it's easier to rev-match downshifts because, again, it weighs less and requires less power to spin up.
I guess one can make the argument that a steel flywheel is better for a street car (aiding in dampening engine vibrations), but once you get used to the lighter aluminum flywheel, you won't miss the steel one.
09-02-2010, 11:35 AM
#10
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I've installed just about every combo of clutches and flywheels possible. I can tell you that aluminum is not the best, as it warps. The steel friction plate is thin and can not handle heat as good as it needs to. If you want the advantages of a lightweight flywheel, go with chromoly. It is much stronger than other billet steel flywheels and almost as light as the aluminum flywheels.
I have been using this type of flywheel with all my clutch kit and have NEVER once had a problem.
Here is a list of flywheel weights...
As you can see, chromoly is only 2lbs heavier than aluminum, but still 8lbs less than stock. If you would like to purchase one, give me a call and I'd be glad to help 817-300-6840
Jason
I have been using this type of flywheel with all my clutch kit and have NEVER once had a problem.
Here is a list of flywheel weights...
Code:
Stock (cast iron) 23lbs Most billet flywheels (Ram, Spec, etc) 25lbs "Cheaper" billet flywheels (PRC, Centerforce, etc) 28-30lbs Aluminum 13lbs Chromoly 15lbs
Jason
09-02-2010, 11:58 AM
#11
I've been using the Fidanza 13lb flywheel since originally installing my LS7 clutch a couple of years ago. It contains a replaceable steel insert for the friction surface, and I replace it if it looks bad whenever the tranny is out for another reason. As others alluded to, the RPM's climb and fall faster, and sometimes it's tough to get the idle tuning rock solid with the reduced load and RPM rate change.
The Fidanza is almost $400 new and $60 for a new insert. What does the chromoly flywheel cost by itself? If the price is right I'll have to remember this option.
The Fidanza is almost $400 new and $60 for a new insert. What does the chromoly flywheel cost by itself? If the price is right I'll have to remember this option.
09-02-2010, 01:08 PM
#12
I've installed just about every combo of clutches and flywheels possible. I can tell you that aluminum is not the best, as it warps. The steel friction plate is thin and can not handle heat as good as it needs to. If you want the advantages of a lightweight flywheel, go with chromoly. It is much stronger than other billet steel flywheels and almost as light as the aluminum flywheels.
I have been using this type of flywheel with all my clutch kit and have NEVER once had a problem.
Here is a list of flywheel weights...
As you can see, chromoly is only 2lbs heavier than aluminum, but still 8lbs less than stock. If you would like to purchase one, give me a call and I'd be glad to help 817-300-6840
Jason
I have been using this type of flywheel with all my clutch kit and have NEVER once had a problem.
Here is a list of flywheel weights...
Code:
Stock (cast iron) 23lbs Most billet flywheels (Ram, Spec, etc) 25lbs "Cheaper" billet flywheels (PRC, Centerforce, etc) 28-30lbs Aluminum 13lbs Chromoly 15lbs
Jason
09-02-2010, 02:14 PM
#13
Aluminum flywheels, if manufactured properly, are a great option for reduced weight and better responsiveness. Additionally they provide you with the option to rebuild the flywheel as needed due to the use of a replacable friction surface. There are thousands of thousands of people using Aluminum flywheels from us (and countless other manufactures without issue)...you can see evidence of this all over this forum.
I have provided info on Chromoly units in the past and the same argument can be made regarding this material when it comes to warpage. It all comes down to the design and materials used. Often times manufactures that use Chromoly will make the flywheel overly thin to save weight and as a result the unit will be more apt to warp due to heat.
I have provided info on Chromoly units in the past and the same argument can be made regarding this material when it comes to warpage. It all comes down to the design and materials used. Often times manufactures that use Chromoly will make the flywheel overly thin to save weight and as a result the unit will be more apt to warp due to heat.
09-03-2010, 04:34 PM
#14
On The Tree
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I've installed just about every combo of clutches and flywheels possible. I can tell you that aluminum is not the best, as it warps. The steel friction plate is thin and can not handle heat as good as it needs to. If you want the advantages of a lightweight flywheel, go with chromoly. It is much stronger than other billet steel flywheels and almost as light as the aluminum flywheels.
I have been using this type of flywheel with all my clutch kit and have NEVER once had a problem.
Here is a list of flywheel weights...
As you can see, chromoly is only 2lbs heavier than aluminum, but still 8lbs less than stock. If you would like to purchase one, give me a call and I'd be glad to help 817-300-6840
Jason
I have been using this type of flywheel with all my clutch kit and have NEVER once had a problem.
Here is a list of flywheel weights...
Code:
Stock (cast iron) 23lbs Most billet flywheels (Ram, Spec, etc) 25lbs "Cheaper" billet flywheels (PRC, Centerforce, etc) 28-30lbs Aluminum 13lbs Chromoly 15lbs
Jason
09-13-2010, 05:26 PM
#15
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Aluminum flywheels, if manufactured properly, are a great option for reduced weight and better responsiveness. Additionally they provide you with the option to rebuild the flywheel as needed due to the use of a replacable friction surface. There are thousands of thousands of people using Aluminum flywheels from us (and countless other manufactures without issue)...you can see evidence of this all over this forum.
I have provided info on Chromoly units in the past and the same argument can be made regarding this material when it comes to warpage. It all comes down to the design and materials used. Often times manufactures that use Chromoly will make the flywheel overly thin to save weight and as a result the unit will be more apt to warp due to heat.
I have provided info on Chromoly units in the past and the same argument can be made regarding this material when it comes to warpage. It all comes down to the design and materials used. Often times manufactures that use Chromoly will make the flywheel overly thin to save weight and as a result the unit will be more apt to warp due to heat.
Chromoly, on the other hand, is specifically designed to handle heat. Therefore it can be thin and still not warp due to the superior material (4140). I've been using this flywheel for the past year or 2 with absolutely no warping problems.
I remember the old SLP 18lb flywheels would warp so bad that you could see heat discoloration on the back side of the flywheel
Last edited by TDP; 09-13-2010 at 05:32 PM.
09-15-2010, 01:24 PM
#17
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They are "light weight" billet steel. It is light considering the material the flywheel is made of. Billet steel is more "condensed" than the stock cast iron flywheel, so naturally it will come out to weigh more. A "regular" weight billet steel flywheel is typically 28-30lbs. So, the SPEC flywheel IS indeed lightweight for what it is. If it were 23lbs, it would have to be thinner, which would be make it more prone to over-heating. Once you go that thin, or thinner, it has to be made up with better steel (i.e. 4140 chromoly).
09-15-2010, 01:38 PM
#18
Thanks for the info, I did not know that
Oh well then I guess it isn't my flywheel making me bog on launch, I guess 2-3k rpm is just too low. Gotta keep it there though until I get stickies. I guess I just need to slip the clutch in the mean time
Oh well then I guess it isn't my flywheel making me bog on launch, I guess 2-3k rpm is just too low. Gotta keep it there though until I get stickies. I guess I just need to slip the clutch in the mean time