t56 vs mn12 whats the difference?
#6
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Is there a difference in bellhousings as well?
And from what Ive read so far are stronger than the f body due to the syncros and same gearing as the z06
And from what Ive read so far are stronger than the f body due to the syncros and same gearing as the z06
Last edited by sixty4sedan; 01-03-2011 at 10:15 PM.
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I believe 1st, 2nd, and 3rd are steeper, with 2nd being the biggest difference from the f-body trans. 4th is still 1:1 and 5th and 6th ODs are the same.
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#8
2nd for the f-body is 1.78 vs. 2.07 for a total difference of .29
1st for the f-body is 2.66 vs. 2.97 for a total difference of .31
Thus first is the biggest difference.
5th is .84 vs. .74, 6th is .57 vs. .50, and even reverse is different at 3.28 vs. 2.90. The only one thats the same is 4th a 1:1, and that goes for all T56s.
#10
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28..._Fbody_T56.pdf
#11
In your opinion what would be the best for my 5.3 turbo swap in my 2wd s10 (5-550rwhp)?
Everything you could possibly need to know about all GM T56 variants.
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28..._Fbody_T56.pdf
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28..._Fbody_T56.pdf
#15
#16
Everything you could possibly need to know about all GM T56 variants.
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28..._Fbody_T56.pdf
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28..._Fbody_T56.pdf
Does M12 = MN12 in that article?
#17
If you look towards the bottom, you'll see it explains everything regarding that and the different names and such of all the gear sets. F-body would M28 and M29 for 93 cars, and MM6 for all the others for example. M10 is the SSR, etc. It gets a little confusing, but basically, yes.
#18
If you look towards the bottom, you'll see it explains everything regarding that and the different names and such of all the gear sets. F-body would M28 and M29 for 93 cars, and MM6 for all the others for example. M10 is the SSR, etc. It gets a little confusing, but basically, yes.
#19
Honestly, its hard to say depending stuff like your rear end gears and such, but your best bet is to built with various parts. I'd use something like the MM6 gear set (all the others first gear is entirely TOO low), go with the SSR output shaft (biggest available; 32 spline and uses a TH400 yoke), and then the tripple cone 1/2 syncros, and the double cone 3/4 and 5/6 syncros from pretty much ANY T56 other than the F-body (GTO, later model Vettes, CTS-V, SSR, etc.), then go with a 1 piece counter shaft, and then the usual carbon blocker rings, billet keys, bronze pads, steel shift fork, etc. Problems with a setup like that is you pretty much have to have 2 trannys, or 1 and buy a bunch of different parts and some machining would be required, but to do that, you have to get the right tranny to start with, since some of the parts aren't available any more I don't think, like the SSR main shaft. Thats the best way to go, but it all really depends on your budget. That could cost $2500 or so if you built it yourself. It'll be bulletproof though, and it'll be good for around 8k RPM. The problem with the f-body double/single cone syncro setup is there really only good for about 6500 RPM vs. 8000 RPM or so for the tripple/double setup, that'll also give you smoother shifts and such.