Clutch pedal play
12-02-2010, 12:53 PM
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Clutch pedal play I did an A4-M6 swap and of course had to add the clutch pedal assembly.
My question is, does anyone else have a large amount of clutch play before it starts to work the master cylinder?
I know exactly what's happening, I just want to know if it's normal.
The clutch pedal arm has a peg that fits into a hole in the master's arm and a little clip holds it there. My clutch peg is much smaller than the master's hole, so when the clutch is fully disengaged and you press the pedal, that little peg moves from the front of the hole to the back before it starts to move the master's arm. While there is only 1/8-3/16" of an inch of clearance in the hole, it translates to a full 1-2" of pedal travel before the master arm is engaged.
Is this designed in? Or perhaps I have a master from one year vehicle and a clutch pedal from another? It seems like I could repair it pretty easily if I just wrap something around the peg to enlarge it to the hole's size, but I wanted to know if it was designed that way on purpose.
Thanks all.
My question is, does anyone else have a large amount of clutch play before it starts to work the master cylinder?
I know exactly what's happening, I just want to know if it's normal.
The clutch pedal arm has a peg that fits into a hole in the master's arm and a little clip holds it there. My clutch peg is much smaller than the master's hole, so when the clutch is fully disengaged and you press the pedal, that little peg moves from the front of the hole to the back before it starts to move the master's arm. While there is only 1/8-3/16" of an inch of clearance in the hole, it translates to a full 1-2" of pedal travel before the master arm is engaged.
Is this designed in? Or perhaps I have a master from one year vehicle and a clutch pedal from another? It seems like I could repair it pretty easily if I just wrap something around the peg to enlarge it to the hole's size, but I wanted to know if it was designed that way on purpose.
Thanks all.
12-02-2010, 04:33 PM
#2
i think i understand what youre saying but that doenst seem normal at all. 1-2" of travel seems excessive for play due to the connecting pin. Ive got the Tick M/C and it has a rod end (like a smaller version of the ones on aftermarket control arms, pahhard rods, etc.) and it fits perfectly, but even my stock one that i mocked up with didnt have near that much wiggle.
are you sure that there isnt air in the hydraulics? ususally play at the top of the pedal is indicative of air bubbles somewhere.
are you sure that there isnt air in the hydraulics? ususally play at the top of the pedal is indicative of air bubbles somewhere.
12-02-2010, 04:47 PM
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I do have air in the system, but that's a whole different issue, heh.
No no, the play is purely mechanical. What I mean is the pin in the clutch arm is much smaller than the eye-hole that it goes through, so it wiggles. Imagine the clutch arm is the size of a pencil (it's close to that) and the master cylinder arm is the size of a lug nut hole in a wheel. Picture the amount of wiggle that would result in. Well, when the clutch pedal is full-out that spring makes it stay all the way up, when you begin pushing the pedal, the pine has to travel from one side of the eye-hole in the master cylinder to the other. While that distance is only about 3/16-1/4", it translates to the 1-2" that i mentioned. I know I can just wrap tape around the pin until it's the same diameter, but I don't know if that's how it was stock, or if there's supposed to be that play.
Thanks for your help.
No no, the play is purely mechanical. What I mean is the pin in the clutch arm is much smaller than the eye-hole that it goes through, so it wiggles. Imagine the clutch arm is the size of a pencil (it's close to that) and the master cylinder arm is the size of a lug nut hole in a wheel. Picture the amount of wiggle that would result in. Well, when the clutch pedal is full-out that spring makes it stay all the way up, when you begin pushing the pedal, the pine has to travel from one side of the eye-hole in the master cylinder to the other. While that distance is only about 3/16-1/4", it translates to the 1-2" that i mentioned. I know I can just wrap tape around the pin until it's the same diameter, but I don't know if that's how it was stock, or if there's supposed to be that play.
Thanks for your help.
