LS1/T56 - Help w/ clutch recommendations for Christmas present for brother
#1
LS1/T56 - Help w/ clutch recommendations for Christmas present for brother
Well fellas - I figured this would be the place to ask.
First off, I have to apologize if this has been answered many times over (if I was a betting man, I'd say it has).
But nonetheless - I'm on the hunt for a new clutch, TO, pressure plate, and slave cylinder for my brother for Christmas, and don't have the luxury of time on my side to do the extent of searching that I would like to in order to make the best clutch replacement decision on his behalf. While I'm fairly educated on the S13 chassis, and other imports, I know next to NONE about Chevy small blocks and drivetrains.
Onto the specifics, he has an LS1/T56 from a 2000 Camaro in his 92' 240sx, and drifts at a regional level. The LS1 block itself is stock, but with what I assume to be a "stage 1" type cam - (Definitely not a stock cam, but I don't believe it to be too aggressive either).
He's already managed to burn through an OEM type LS1/T56 clutch due to improper clutch master cylinder adjustment (using a Wilwood/Sikky CMC), as the clutch was pre-loaded.
However, he seems to want something that can take abuse a little better.
It's not uncommon for him to do repeated 4th gear clutch kicks when corner entry speeds during competition get into the 80-90mph range, and really just needs something that can hold up to that kind of abuse for a suitable amount of time.
Cost is not really all that much of an issue, but I surely don't have the kind of cash for twin or triple disk setups (nor would I think he'd need it for the power he puts out - an estimated 325whp/315-320wtq). He mentioned a CenterForce Dual Friction (carbon-kevlar, full face) - But I know nothing about em.
I've even previously tried to keep him away from ceramic type clutch plates, due to the fact that they're not very forgiving when it comes to recovering from glazing.
So what do you guys think? What's your input and suggestions?
All answers are appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
First off, I have to apologize if this has been answered many times over (if I was a betting man, I'd say it has).
But nonetheless - I'm on the hunt for a new clutch, TO, pressure plate, and slave cylinder for my brother for Christmas, and don't have the luxury of time on my side to do the extent of searching that I would like to in order to make the best clutch replacement decision on his behalf. While I'm fairly educated on the S13 chassis, and other imports, I know next to NONE about Chevy small blocks and drivetrains.
Onto the specifics, he has an LS1/T56 from a 2000 Camaro in his 92' 240sx, and drifts at a regional level. The LS1 block itself is stock, but with what I assume to be a "stage 1" type cam - (Definitely not a stock cam, but I don't believe it to be too aggressive either).
He's already managed to burn through an OEM type LS1/T56 clutch due to improper clutch master cylinder adjustment (using a Wilwood/Sikky CMC), as the clutch was pre-loaded.
However, he seems to want something that can take abuse a little better.
It's not uncommon for him to do repeated 4th gear clutch kicks when corner entry speeds during competition get into the 80-90mph range, and really just needs something that can hold up to that kind of abuse for a suitable amount of time.
Cost is not really all that much of an issue, but I surely don't have the kind of cash for twin or triple disk setups (nor would I think he'd need it for the power he puts out - an estimated 325whp/315-320wtq). He mentioned a CenterForce Dual Friction (carbon-kevlar, full face) - But I know nothing about em.
I've even previously tried to keep him away from ceramic type clutch plates, due to the fact that they're not very forgiving when it comes to recovering from glazing.
So what do you guys think? What's your input and suggestions?
All answers are appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
#7
Thanks Mike.
Yea, he ended up realizing what I had been telling him all along to keep an eye out for (pre-loading) AFTER he burned the stocker out. :facepalm:
Needless to say, he's on the right track now as far as clutch geometry and hydraulics are concerned. Being a dum-dum? ... well we're still working on that one...
Yea, he ended up realizing what I had been telling him all along to keep an eye out for (pre-loading) AFTER he burned the stocker out. :facepalm:
Needless to say, he's on the right track now as far as clutch geometry and hydraulics are concerned. Being a dum-dum? ... well we're still working on that one...
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#10
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its all about what your looking to get out of it and how you use it. they are good because they are readily available and cheap, easy to install and low maintenance. its a perfect pair for my 10bolt, im sure if approach the max torque rating of the disc the rear will be in a million pieces. i dont use slicks
Last edited by disc0monkey; 12-08-2010 at 12:25 PM.
#11
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its all about what your looking to get out of it and how you use it. they are good because they are readily available and cheap, easy to install and low maintenance. its a perfect pair for my 10bolt, im sure if approach the max torque rating of the disc the rear will be in a million pieces. i dont use slicks