First thing to break running mid 9's
#1
First thing to break running mid 9's
I'm at the point I feel that I'm going to start breaking parts. I don't like breaking parts so I want to beef up what potentially could be a weak link. I wanted to get some input from some guy's that are running T56 and running in the 9's.
Currently my quickest time is a 10.37@131.7 NA and a 9.64@143 150shot. I feel that I have a pretty stout driveline with a Textralia Exo Skel Twin Disc along with a built T56 with everything minus Viper Shafts, PST 3.5" Nitrous Driveshaft mating to a Moser 9". My instinct tells me that the weakest link now is my tranny output shaft being stock. However knock on wood I've not had any trouble so far out of it.
Do I need to upgrade the shaft, anything else I'm overlooking that could potentially be a weak link. Basically those of you that have broken parts, what have you broke.
Currently my quickest time is a 10.37@131.7 NA and a 9.64@143 150shot. I feel that I have a pretty stout driveline with a Textralia Exo Skel Twin Disc along with a built T56 with everything minus Viper Shafts, PST 3.5" Nitrous Driveshaft mating to a Moser 9". My instinct tells me that the weakest link now is my tranny output shaft being stock. However knock on wood I've not had any trouble so far out of it.
Do I need to upgrade the shaft, anything else I'm overlooking that could potentially be a weak link. Basically those of you that have broken parts, what have you broke.
#3
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I plan on staying with a stick but do not know if I will ever get in the 9's with it. It usually ends up out of most peoples budget being it is so hard on parts.
Sorry for the blab but I like to see guys like yourself staying with a stick at that performance level.
Man your car has some hit!
Sorry for the blab but I like to see guys like yourself staying with a stick at that performance level.
Man your car has some hit!
Last edited by DART505; 12-19-2010 at 09:33 AM.
#6
Well maybe I've just done my homework right with suspension geometry. I've never had wheel hop with my setup luckly. Best 60' to date is a 1.39. I plan on ditching nitrous and building a FI aluminum motor setup with quite a bit of boost, from my Honda days I learned how to make antilag work to spool the turbo on a 2step so I'm curious how it will work on a big cube v8. I believe the hit off the line will be softer than nitrous which in turn is easier on parts. Only one way to find out.
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#8
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are you running a pump setup to keep from burning up the input and cluster from fluid sloshing to the rear? i kept burning them up this year and rpm got me set up to run a pump next year. shooting for mid 9s.
#9
No pump on my setup. Only tranny related upgrades were the normal upgrades you do to one. Steel 3-4 fork, bronze fork pads, carbon blocker's etc.
I've never had a minutes trouble shifting gear's at high RPM (7500) in any gear or had any broken parts. I don't slip the clutch off the line either, I flat foot the car on the Lingenfelter box at 6000RPM and side step the clutch and go. Sometimes it spin's more than other times and I have to pedal the car but there have been multiple occasions that I've launced and dead hooked and the car bog all the way to 1700RPM from a 6200RPM clutch drop within .2 seconds. Didn't break so I guess I'm just lucky.
I've never had a minutes trouble shifting gear's at high RPM (7500) in any gear or had any broken parts. I don't slip the clutch off the line either, I flat foot the car on the Lingenfelter box at 6000RPM and side step the clutch and go. Sometimes it spin's more than other times and I have to pedal the car but there have been multiple occasions that I've launced and dead hooked and the car bog all the way to 1700RPM from a 6200RPM clutch drop within .2 seconds. Didn't break so I guess I'm just lucky.
#10
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I twisted my output shaft and I am only in the mid 11's, I don't know how it happened. I ordered all the parts and did it myself and saved a bunch of money!! I agree the pump spraying around the input shaft should be in the near future. I over filled my transmission by half a quart when I installed it last time to help with the lack of fluid when launching.
#11
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What kind of trans yoke are you running? I broke a 1350 Spicer yoke last year and had to upgrade to a billet style and I'm nowhere near your ET or MPH. I'd say if you're having success with your current setup, then keep at it. Like mentioned before, a pump setup might be a good idea.
Mike
Mike
#12
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Aside from doing a complete rebuild and upgrade of hard parts. Most people who run into the 9's and getting right have gone to a Soft-lok or Soft Lock clutch, do a google search. Its expensive as hell but will make a t-56 competitive. The only issue is constant adjustment and the cost when you blow it. Unfortunately this is NOT a street clutch AT ALL, Truly TRACK ONLY.
#13
The yoke I'm running is whatever came on my PST driveshaft. It looks to be billet steel but I'm not sure. When I bought it from exotic performance it was rated at 1200hp and classified as a nitrous driveshaft. I've looked them up since and now are only rated for 1000hp??? So with that said I'm not sure.
Ive looked into the softloc clutches but don't have $2k+ to invest in one plus this car gets driven alot on the street. So far the textralia has worked really well so I'm probably going to keep working with it.
Ive looked into the softloc clutches but don't have $2k+ to invest in one plus this car gets driven alot on the street. So far the textralia has worked really well so I'm probably going to keep working with it.
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Do the mainshaft upgrade with matching yoke. Adding a spray nozzle/pump setup on it isn't a bad idea either. You can wire it up to come on at WOT like your nitrous probably does or you can just have it turn on with a simple single throw switch.
#15
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i didnt read all this but i can tell you its hit or miss. there are local cars much slower then mine breaking ****. ive never once hurt my trans. i have however exploded one yoke (last wknd) and twisted the splines on 3 spicer yokes. only reason i havent gone to a billet yoke it im also on a 26 spline output. i think of the yoke more like a fuse at this point. but i dont track the car very often. its prob a 9.60 car all day long if i had the time to go. and it has made 900 ft lbs of torque on a chassis dyno. aaaannnnd its a 3850 lbs race weight. id say if you track it a lot do the output. a 31 spline is the way to go if you dont mind the effort. most do the 30 spline. good luck bro.
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ive broke a few yokes and twisted splines in spicer ones on the stock output shaft. have the 30 spline now and couldnt keep an input and cluster together long enough to hurt a yoke yet, but pump should help with that this spring
#20
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I had to go with a strange yoke in my car, twisted every other shaft, even the billet one from MW. its chrome Moly nitride hardened
http://www.jegs.com/i/Strange-Engine...oductId=744500
I only go high 10's, but I been 1.44 60ft 3800lb NA.
building another car that should really stretch the limits of a T56...
http://www.jegs.com/i/Strange-Engine...oductId=744500
I only go high 10's, but I been 1.44 60ft 3800lb NA.
building another car that should really stretch the limits of a T56...