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Damaged shift forks, 98 Z28 6-spd

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Old 01-03-2011, 04:10 AM
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Default Damaged shift forks, 98 Z28 6-spd

So, what can/how can shift forks get damaged, as mine were. After a while, the only way I could easily get the car into 1st or Reverse (when first starting the car) I'd have to shut the car off, put the car in Neutral, start the car again, and then get it into gear. Otherwise, I mean, I just could not get it into gear.
Old 01-03-2011, 04:15 AM
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prolly from beating on it
Old 01-03-2011, 06:08 AM
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No.

She's my daily driver, so I can't go too crazy with her. Trust me...I've learned my lesson. I push it now and then, you know...to clean out those fuel injectors a bit. And noooo, I'm not doing any 3k rpm launches from a dig INTO Reverse either.

Next...
Old 01-03-2011, 08:38 AM
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Who told you your forks were bad? The pads go bad, but the forks themselves (besides stock aluminum 3-4 fork) rarely go bad.
Old 01-03-2011, 09:31 AM
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Well, they were the stock forks. And the only problems I ever had were shifts from 2nd to 1st, or Neutral to first for that matter. And from Neutral to Reverse. That was it.
Old 01-03-2011, 09:36 AM
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And again "Who" told you they were bad? Was it someone that you paid to "fix" your trans? What does it list on your repair bill? Forks don't go bad for the most part.
Old 01-03-2011, 09:54 AM
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Thats a clutch issue.
Old 01-03-2011, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by thesource
Thats a clutch issue.
Yup... I'm still trying to get the background on the story being told.. Sounds like a shop bled the hydraulics and charged them $800 for a set of shift forks...
Old 01-03-2011, 10:17 AM
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Speed shop my family's been taking our cars to for the last 12 years (Camaro also happens to be 12 years old). A group guys that have saved us a ton of needless work other local shops said needed to be done (like having to replace both cats because of a rattling noise +$800, that turned out to be just my cutout was pushed into the body after going over a retched speed bump...easy fix $35). And while am no certified mechanic, the list is as follows:

clutch master
clutch slave
dual friction ls1
resurface fly wheel
inspect/repair transmission
replace clutch/slave cylinder
pilot bearing

And now, the gears go in as smooth as butter, all the gears, EVEN Reverse. Which brought me back to my original concern; why was I not able to put the car into 1st or Reverse at all (many times), unless I turned the car off, and then turned it on again?
Old 01-03-2011, 10:25 AM
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If your bill was only $800 and that included the list of parts above, they didn't do anything to the transmission except maybe drain it and refill it with new oil.
Old 01-03-2011, 10:39 AM
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I also took home a couple of parts, you know just for the hell of it, like one of the gears which looked partially stripped at the teeth, which is what he said was probably the sound I heard as I pulled away after dropping it into 2nd. Oh yeah...just after the car lurched forward like a motherfuqer. Well if I can get another 120,000 miles out of the car. I'll call it even.
Old 01-03-2011, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by thecobrahunter
I also took home a couple of parts, you know just for the hell of it, like one of the gears which looked partially stripped at the teeth, which is what he said was probably the sound I heard as I pulled away after dropping it into 2nd. Oh yeah...just after the car lurched forward like a motherfuqer. Well if I can get another 120,000 miles out of the car. I'll call it even.
Were any of the parts you took home, shift forks ?
Old 01-03-2011, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by thecobrahunter
So, what can/how can shift forks get damaged, as mine were. After a while, the only way I could easily get the car into 1st or Reverse (when first starting the car) I'd have to shut the car off, put the car in Neutral, start the car again, and then get it into gear. Otherwise, I mean, I just could not get it into gear.
If the clutch is fully released before and during shifting they won't readily be damaged.

If the clutch is not fully released (hydraulics in need of service or poor driving) then the shifter being pushed into gear while blocker rings are blocking the shift damages the fork pads.

3k clutch dumps into reverse aren't the primary problem.
Old 01-03-2011, 06:25 PM
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No, at that point, I just wanted to be done with it. Told them to just take care of all the boxed up parts.
Old 01-03-2011, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 85MikeTPI
Forks don't go bad for the most part.
Absolutely true! I laugh every time I read that someone thinks they must have a "bent shift fork" lol
I've never ever seen a shift fork bend. If there is a problem with the fork, it's usually broken causing a major transmission issue.


Originally Posted by thesource
Thats a clutch issue.
^^^^ ...or a hydraulic issue..
Sounds like the dlutch isn't fully disengaging..
Old 01-06-2011, 06:49 PM
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[QUOTE=TDP;14312805]Absolutely true! I laugh every time I read that someone thinks they must have a "bent shift fork" lol
I've never ever seen a shift fork bend. If there is a problem with the fork, it's usually broken causing a major transmission issue.

This^^^
Old 01-07-2011, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by TDP
^^^^ ...or a hydraulic issue..
Sounds like the dlutch isn't fully disengaging..
Probably more of a hydraulic issue actually. I usually just post clutch issue since most people wouldn't have a clue about what a hydraulic issue means. These hydraulic clutch setups now days can really be a little bitch when you start changing pressure plate tensions and disc thickness. I prefer the simple old clutch cable that Ford used back in the day. Install a firewall adjuster and keep it away from heat. You will rarely have a problem.



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