clutch for turbo build
#1
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clutch for turbo build
well the trans is at rpm getting level 5 and gforce gear set but i havnt decided on a clutch yet looking for people that have ran these three
mcLeod rxt i heard of a few falures
monster level 6 new really havnt seen anybody run it
spec stage 5 and well its sinterd iron disc will hold but not street friendly
looken for 800 rwh and i like to drive it on the street im preety flexiable about my street maners i almost went with a faceplated gear set but couldnt afford it right now i am fine with having to refresh every 8 to 10k miles with maybe a dozen strip passes in a year matainance comes with power thanks ian
mcLeod rxt i heard of a few falures
monster level 6 new really havnt seen anybody run it
spec stage 5 and well its sinterd iron disc will hold but not street friendly
looken for 800 rwh and i like to drive it on the street im preety flexiable about my street maners i almost went with a faceplated gear set but couldnt afford it right now i am fine with having to refresh every 8 to 10k miles with maybe a dozen strip passes in a year matainance comes with power thanks ian
#2
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I'm an LT1 so its gonna be a bit different. I have/had a Spec stage 5, drove decent, but it beat the HELL out of my flywheel and PP. 900 miles on them and they are hotspotted like crazy. Not sure if its the clutch or my pilot bearing that went out (Don't go roller), or maybe one caused the other. I've heard good things about the Stage 3+ but haven't ran one yet. IMO a twin is the way to go. Gonna be looking for one myself probably.
#3
The Stage 5 disc utilizes a Sintered Iron material that is fairly sticky (high friction coefficient) which allows for its great capacity. Any clutch will generate heat as a result of its normal function. If you ride the clutch, when launching or on the street, you will generate more heat than normal.
That being said it is all about the torque output of your car. A Stage 4+ (rigid version of the 3+) is a bit lighter and has the same overall torque cappacity: 967lb.-ft at the crank. If you are making less torque than this it would be fine. Additionally you could opt for the Stage 5 or a Super-Twin of you like. Let me know if you have any further questions and I will be happy to provide more info! Thanks,
That being said it is all about the torque output of your car. A Stage 4+ (rigid version of the 3+) is a bit lighter and has the same overall torque cappacity: 967lb.-ft at the crank. If you are making less torque than this it would be fine. Additionally you could opt for the Stage 5 or a Super-Twin of you like. Let me know if you have any further questions and I will be happy to provide more info! Thanks,
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thanks green95vert
and spec thanks i didnt know they made a stage4+ the super twin is what i want but the price is hard right now if i didnt build the tranny thats what i woulda went with but i alwasy have had good luck with my specs put them through hella abuse over their ratings ill be in touch this part of the build is with tax money waiten on that
and spec thanks i didnt know they made a stage4+ the super twin is what i want but the price is hard right now if i didnt build the tranny thats what i woulda went with but i alwasy have had good luck with my specs put them through hella abuse over their ratings ill be in touch this part of the build is with tax money waiten on that
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The Monster Level 6 might be a little too much for your application. The material is really aggressive and is not best suited for a street driven car. Now the Level 5 or our 11" unit will both hold your power. The Level 5 is going to have a lighter pedal feel and show very minimal to no chatter after it is broken in. the 11" unit is going to have some chatter and a firmer pedal.
Feel free to give me a call if you have nay questions about the Monster Clutch line!
Matt
817-750-2000
Feel free to give me a call if you have nay questions about the Monster Clutch line!
Matt
817-750-2000
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I'd suggest the Diamond Stage 3, especially if you plan to refresh it every so often. It will be the most cost-effective/streetable setup. Even though it's only rated at 700hp/tq, it will hold the power fine, especially with a turbo. I'm building a turbo Camaro that I'm planning to make 650-675rw, and I'm just running the Stage 2 clutch.
I only charge a fraction of the cost for a re-fresh. Of course you can get away with re-surfacing the flywheel a few times, before you have to get a new one. Then you'll just need a disc and pressure plate to freshen it up, which I can give you 35% off. www.diamondclutch.com
I only charge a fraction of the cost for a re-fresh. Of course you can get away with re-surfacing the flywheel a few times, before you have to get a new one. Then you'll just need a disc and pressure plate to freshen it up, which I can give you 35% off. www.diamondclutch.com
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#8
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The Monster Level 6 might be a little too much for your application. The material is really aggressive and is not best suited for a street driven car. Now the Level 5 or our 11" unit will both hold your power. The Level 5 is going to have a lighter pedal feel and show very minimal to no chatter after it is broken in. the 11" unit is going to have some chatter and a firmer pedal.
Feel free to give me a call if you have nay questions about the Monster Clutch line!
Matt
817-750-2000
Feel free to give me a call if you have nay questions about the Monster Clutch line!
Matt
817-750-2000
#9
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I'd suggest the Diamond Stage 3, especially if you plan to refresh it every so often. It will be the most cost-effective/streetable setup. Even though it's only rated at 700hp/tq, it will hold the power fine, especially with a turbo. I'm building a turbo Camaro that I'm planning to make 650-675rw, and I'm just running the Stage 2 clutch.
I only charge a fraction of the cost for a re-fresh. Of course you can get away with re-surfacing the flywheel a few times, before you have to get a new one. Then you'll just need a disc and pressure plate to freshen it up, which I can give you 35% off. www.diamondclutch.com
I only charge a fraction of the cost for a re-fresh. Of course you can get away with re-surfacing the flywheel a few times, before you have to get a new one. Then you'll just need a disc and pressure plate to freshen it up, which I can give you 35% off. www.diamondclutch.com
its not that i want to refresh that often its just that im allright with having to when u drive like i do and make big power everytime this car comes out it gets its *** kicked