petercalaguiro

I have followed a few threads on this topic and have never read a solution. If you do not have room in your tunnel for the solenoid but want the safety of a reverse lockout here is how to accomplish it. This can be accomplished with the transmission in the car. Remove the solenoid and mount from the transmission and unscrew the solenoid from the part that mounts it to the transmission. Inventory the solenoid. Cut the mount almost flush and weld a cap on it. Now disassemble the plunger/spring fixture that was located inside the mount. The plunger shaft must be cut off flush (leave the spring locator seat) to allow the spring to be depressed. The original length of compression is about 1" and now there is only about 3/4" (the mount is capped flush) so the spring must be shortened to suit. Do this in steps and test to get the resistance feel that suits you. Reassemble and it is good to go. It all sounds complicated but when you pull it all apart, it becomes very obvious. Now the reverse lockout will be in place and the solenoid is not taking up space in the tunnel.......and there are no wires to hookup!
Enjoy the project.
Peter
02G0200

MisterD

This is very helpful information but is there any chance you can add pictures? I am really hoping to remove my solenoid and still have the safety of some sort of reverse lock out. I'm not even clear on how it works? Does the solenoid bring in the stub/lockout mechanism when the car is put into reverse? SO the plunger/stub stays out while driving to prevent an accidental shift into reverse when going into 5th? Sorry if too many questions... Thanks again for posting.

petercalaguiro

Sorry, I didn't take any pictures. But if you pull the solenoid out of the transmission and and just look at it carefully, it will all make sense. It is really a very simple operation.
Good Luck,
Peter

raw untamed

I have the solenoid and mount off the car and taken apart. I'm trying to understand exactly what you mean.

You said, "The plunger shaft must be cut off flush (leave the spring locator seat) to allow the spring to be depressed.

Which part of the plunger shaft are you cutting exactly? The part that the small spring sat in, which is on the opposite side from the shifter?

So the new setup will do away with the small spring, right? And the main spring should be shortened to the users liking. Also, the part of the plunger that is now cut flush is contacting the "cap" that you made to close off the hole in the mount, correct?

Thanks a lot,

Joe

petercalaguiro

Yes you are correct and I am sorry for not replying sooner. Peter

petercalaguiro

Raw untamed,
PM me. I cannot attached pictures on this forum. I don't know how. calaguiros@gmail.com.
Thanks, Peter

raw untamed

Here are the pics of the reverse lockout without the solenoid. Peter, you're the man. Lets all give a big thanks to him for sharing this with us.

So I take it you are completely happy with the mechanical operation of the lockout since the fabrication?

I'm going to do this on my Challenger.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I'm definitely going to give this a shot. I tried it without any wiring hooked up and its too stiff with my short shifter, and without any lockout I have ground reverse a time or 2.

Time to get under there and modify the lockout again, thanks for the info

petercalaguiro

Yes, I have had it in place for 2 years and never caught reverse again. Gives you much more confidence when going for 5th on a pass, when you know you are not going to catch reverse!
Peter