Tick MC Installed, Pedal Still Sticks
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Tick MC Installed, Pedal Still Sticks
As the title says, the new MC was an improvement but the clutch pedal still goes mushy and will either come back up slow or get stuck halfway down after a few WOT shifts. Stock pedal would get stuck to the floor. I also have about an inch of play at the top of the pedal, not sure if this is normal.
MC was bench bled before install and then bled again in the car. I did leave the spring installed on the clutch pedal, not sure if this matters or not. I'm assuming I just need a new slave, but any feedback would be appreciated.
MC was bench bled before install and then bled again in the car. I did leave the spring installed on the clutch pedal, not sure if this matters or not. I'm assuming I just need a new slave, but any feedback would be appreciated.
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Im getting really worried now. I will update you guys on my Tick MC that would likely have been from same batch shortly. I have been helping blwn on his thread for some time now..
01formula6,
Go to the link and tell us if your problem is the same thing. Follow the test procedures I listed in there.
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FML. Not another one..
Im getting really worried now. I will update you guys on my Tick MC that would likely have been from same batch shortly. I have been helping blwn on his thread for some time now..
01formula6,
Go to the link and tell us if your problem is the same thing. Follow the test procedures I listed in there.
Im getting really worried now. I will update you guys on my Tick MC that would likely have been from same batch shortly. I have been helping blwn on his thread for some time now..
01formula6,
Go to the link and tell us if your problem is the same thing. Follow the test procedures I listed in there.
However, on my commute to work today I had a similar issue to that other poster. Under normal driving my pedal had 0 resistance for the first half of pedal travel and the clutch was engaging near the floor. The pedal also would not come back up unless I pulled it. Then about 5 min later things were back to normal
I will try testing, bleeding and adjusting it tonight and see what that does.
#6
mine is doing the same thing, having to pull it off the floor after a strong pass at the track mine is not a tick mc though, someone told the the hydrolic line isnt big enough and needs the "drill trick" done?
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347cubeSS- The Tick MC is an improved design over the factory MC and doesn't require the drill mod. What you are describing is reason why people buy the Tick MC, as it's supposed to fix that issue. FYI, I did the dill mod on my stock MC and it did not fix the problem.
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Just do the drill mod and it may fix your problem. If not, Tick is the way to go. They have pretty high QC over there and Im hoping his was an isolated instance.
I will know Friday night when I get min bled and test it out.
I will know Friday night when I get min bled and test it out.
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Care to elaborate? My Tick has been perfect since install!! No bench bleeding, and no sticky pedal!
Im suprised no one said this sooner..
Take out the spring, and see what the pedal does. Also, what kind of mileage do you have on your clutch and slave?
Im suprised no one said this sooner..
Take out the spring, and see what the pedal does. Also, what kind of mileage do you have on your clutch and slave?
Last edited by NVR_SPDS; 04-05-2011 at 07:52 PM.
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Ummm 114K Clutch still holds fine. I'd like to replace it anyway, but just don't have the money for that this year, especially when mine is ok.
Thank you for the advice on the spring, I didn't know it would negatively effect pedal feel. Your writeup describes my issues EXACTLY, except you replaced more parts so far
By the time I got home, ate dinner and read this post I already decided to say screw it and watch the Bulls, Sox, Blackhawks tonight I'll take the spring out, and get things re-adjusted in a day or so and report back.
Here is my write-up on how I fixed my clutch. The key for me was the spring.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...els-right.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...els-right.html
By the time I got home, ate dinner and read this post I already decided to say screw it and watch the Bulls, Sox, Blackhawks tonight I'll take the spring out, and get things re-adjusted in a day or so and report back.
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x2 on the slave.
Stock slave cylinder is horrible especially in pre2000 cars. Even with a good M/C on it that part is weak.
I feel most of the time people have this problem it is not M/C related as much as the crappy S/C.
I tell people 1st try the drill mod and add DOT 4 fluid. If that does not help. 99% of the time the slave/T.O bearing are shot.
Stock slave cylinder is horrible especially in pre2000 cars. Even with a good M/C on it that part is weak.
I feel most of the time people have this problem it is not M/C related as much as the crappy S/C.
I tell people 1st try the drill mod and add DOT 4 fluid. If that does not help. 99% of the time the slave/T.O bearing are shot.
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I'm sure my slave could use replacing and the clutch won't last forever. This is my thinking though, they are obviously a ton more work to replace, also more expensive, so why not replace the MC first? It would be replaced anyway if I was doing the clutch/slave. If the MC fixes my probelm then great, it buys me some extra time.
#20
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I'm not a tech so unfortunately I can't lend any technical information to this thread, but we do have a tech department that you can email: http://www.tick-performance.com/tech/
We've been battling power outages all week so response time is a bit backed up, but we definitely want each and every customer to be 100% satisfied so please get in touch if you have any questions/issues!
We've been battling power outages all week so response time is a bit backed up, but we definitely want each and every customer to be 100% satisfied so please get in touch if you have any questions/issues!