KFC_Or_Bust

iTrader: (5)

Pretty much what the title says, I installed the Tick M/C a couple weeks ago and didn't bleed it 100%. Brought it up to my mechanic tonight and we tried bleeding it but every time I pushed the clutch in and he cracked the line I had to bring the pedal up manually.

I have the pedal adjusted even with the dead pedal and the spring is still on the pedal. I don't know how many turns from the shortest setting that is, my friend was adjusting it when we installed it because I was sick as **** which is the main reason it wasn't bled properly in the first place, though I haven't really driven the car since install anyway...

So anyways, back to the slave, after we tried bleeding it some more (tonight with my mechanic) he suggested I lengthen the rod a little bit, well I did that and heard a pop then the clutch went straight to the floor. I thought maybe I did something wrong with the rod or pulled it out of the MC but that wasn't the case, the slave cylinder let loose right there.

What the crap would cause this?

Before that, I had plenty stiff of a clutch even with air in the line so I don't think it was hydraulic related. I drove it about 100 miles with the Tick, no beating on it obviously and had no issues, pedal came back up by itself and everything, drove totally fine under normal conditions. A couple Saturdays ago I pulled out of the car wash and the pedal was stuck almost to the floor and wouldn't go into gear. I had to limp it home and didn't drive it until tonight, clutch all the way to the floor and it was still rolling forward, once I got it rolling I was able to rev match and drive without the clutch to my mechanics shop.

Excuse my long winded-ness, I'm trying to be as descriptive as possible...

redtail2426

iTrader: (10)

well it looks like you will be replacing the slave.Did fluid leak out of the bellhousing afterwards?
when you do replace the slave,be sure to add on a speed bleeder line if you dont have one.It was the best mod i have done to my car,and worth every penny.Much easier to bleed the clutch.
After all that you should be able to get it squared away pretty easily.Just be sure you adjust it correctly.
And take a pic of the slave after you pull the tranny,i would like to see what happened.

KFC_Or_Bust

iTrader: (5)

Yeah he's pulling the tranny and I'm picking up a slave tomorrow. At first I thought it was the MC but fluid leaking out of the bellhousing told us different, I just find it weird as **** that it popped right then and there and not on the road.

I have the speed bleeder line on the passengers seat, it's going in once the tranny is out.

raven154

iTrader: (14)

It could have just been its time to go or it popped because you adjusted it to far out. Hopefully you didn't damage the pressure plate by over extending it if thats the case.

KFC_Or_Bust

iTrader: (5)

Yeah hopefully... The only thing I have going my way is I wasn't driving it and the best place for it to break down is on my mechanics lift!

disc0monkey

iTrader: (10)

good time to get a remote bleeder if you dont already

danbo313

iTrader: (8)

And take out the pedal spring, you will like the feel of the pedal 10 x better.

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

I started my pedal even with the brake pedal and bled it and then adjusted from there.

KFC_Or_Bust

iTrader: (5)

This might've been an issue... Mechanic called me today and said the throwout bearing pretty much fell out in pieces. Good thing a new one came with the slave!

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Use a vac bleeder. When I first started with complete new "dry" hydraulics and added fluid I still had 0 pressure after a few attempts (this was with the tick master and bleeder) of bleeding. Rented a mighty vac from Autozone and after 5 mins of playing with it I had that leg press of a clutch pedal back.