slow78z28

iTrader: (1)

Hey all just got done installing a Master Tick Cylinder pretty awesome very happy with the product damn Chevy for making it such a pain in the *** though

My question is this my clutch disengages just fine but the pedal seems like it releases it too high for me. My old cylinder used to just release at a low interval but at rest the pedal was a inch or 2 higher then the brake pedal.

But for me to now get the low release i want the clutch pedal sits 2-3 inches lower then the brake pedal. Am I just overthinking things based on feeling?
The clutch pedal itself has an inch or 2 of play for some reason after i depress it fully I can pull it up an inch or 2.


Another question is as long as I dont move forward when the clutch is depressed I wont have abnormal wear due to to the clutch not fully disengaging?
Would it cause another problem if the pedal was close to the floor? Like if its not fully mated to the flywheel while in gear? For example if you have a cable clutch instead of hydralic system and if the cable was adjusted too short it would barely grab the flywheel causing premature wear and slippage?



Sorry for all the crazy questions I attached some pics to see where my pedal is currently at. sorry for the mess my old cylinder was leaking so thats why you see all those spots there lol..

hopefully someone can answer all of these

slow78z28

iTrader: (1)

Update: After driving it a little more today seems like the longer i drive it the closer the clutch pedal gets to the floor without going up.. i have to pull it up with my foot to get enough space for me to push it back in to shift. When I pull it up i watch it slowwlllyyy sink back down a inch or 2

slow78z28

iTrader: (1)

Update: got a mityvac stuck the hose into the reservoir and vacummed out all the airbubbles that could be found. Also pumped the clutch a few times to see if any more would come out. However vacuum would not hold at 20 psi.. i can get it up that high then it would slowly sink down to 0 dont know if thats a bad sign?

I hope this works..

EDIT: Seems like air is still in the system pedal keeps sticking low to the floor after shifting before slowly adjusting it self back up

Sargeant Sh!tbag

iTrader: (3)

If you seriously acheived 20 psi of vacuum and it goes to 0 you may have pulled the seals in the MC.. Or if you are lucky you just have a leak somewhere ie bad slave cyl..

I would use conventional bleed methods and check for leaks for starters..

ls1muscle

iTrader: (16)

Remove the clutch pedal return spring if you haven't already. That will get rid of some dead space in the pedal.

Blwn_by_Twins

iTrader: (6)

If the fitting is firmly in the reservoir, all your hoses are on tight, and it's leaking down then you have a problem with the m/c most likely. If you pulled 20 psi (the black 20 on the gauge) then there is a good chance you messed up the seals in side of it. If you only pulled it to 20 kpa (in the red) then you may still have air. You can go up to 9-10hg (in black)MAX.

On a side note, I removed the spring and still have a couple inches of play on the pedal.

slow78z28

iTrader: (1)

Hrmp other then the clutch not returning up to where its adjusted instead of sticking to the floor no other problems are apparent like me not being able to get it into first or reverse.
Whats the easiest way to test if the seals in the M/C are broken or leaking? Do i just disconnect the quick release line into the tranny and try pushing in the clutch pedal and it shouldnt move?

Sorry im retarded but where is the clutch pedal return spring? I didnt remove any such thing when I installed the tick master cylinder.

p.s. I thought the master cylinder and the slave cylinder were the same thing in terms of clutch use..

Sargeant Sh!tbag

iTrader: (3)

Test procedure is found here.. If your pedal isnt coming up you dont have this issue.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...te-4-10-a.html


The clutch pedal return spring is above the pedal assy.. It is the only moving metal spring above it so you cant screw that up.. Just use a screwdriver to remove it..


The master cyl is the part that you installed from tick.. The part that you ran the hyd line to in the transmission is the slave cyl. When you depress the pedal the fluid is pressed from the MC into the slave extending it and disengaging the clutch. They are two separate parts. One is external and one is mounted on the transmission.

slow78z28

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the response.. I havent had time to release the quick disconnect yet since i have rifle range all this week and dont want to disable it fully yet since i will have no vehicle to drive. I did find the spring located above the clutch pedal assembly and popped that thing off.

Its just so annoying to have to pull up the clutch pedal every 5 shifts or so, so i can press it down again fully without it being 2 inchs from the floor

Sargeant Sh!tbag

iTrader: (3)

Are you sure you arent loosing fluid? It just sounds like a leak more than air to me.

slow78z28

iTrader: (1)

Nope not a leak anywhere that I can see. heres an email from TICK customer service.

With our master and a good slave cylinder you should only have about 1/2" of play at the top of the pedals travel. 1-2 inches is definately not normal. How old is your slave cylinder? Did you remove the "helper" spring from the pedal assembly when you installed the master?

Usually when the pedal doesn't return there are a few things that could be going on. If you can pull the pedal back up and then it has a full stroke again it could be any of the following:

Severely dirty fluid which is unlikely in your case, overheated fluid from a clutch line too close to headers/exhaust or from a slipping clutch, or a faulty pressure plate. If the pressure plate is faulty then the pedal would likely not have pressure when you pull it back up. Most likely IMO is a faulty slave cylinder.

To answer your other question, hydraulic systems are nothing like cable units in Mustangs. The hydraulic systems is self adjusting in that manor due to the large spring between the tob and the slave. On mustangs, the factory quadrant is self adjusting as well due to a ratcheting type design. With aftermarket quadrants and adjustable cables on mustangs however the adusment must be maintained as the components wear and the cable stretches.

With that said, if your pedal is too low clutch drag can occur. This would make shifting into gear from neutral when sitting still difficult and it would make high rpm shifting nearly imposible. If the transmission goes into gear smoothly from a stop then you probably don't have any clutch drag. The proper adjustment procedure should be described in our instructions.

Make sure you don't actually have any fluid leaks. Also, hold the pedal to the floor for an extended period of time and see if the pedal stays down. If the master or the slave is bleeding by gradually that could be the reason the pedal seems to hang down. If you hold the pedal down while in gear for a long enough period of time and a seal somewhere is bleeding by the system should bleed down enough to actually make the car begin to move/roll.

Let me know what you come up with.

slow78z28

iTrader: (1)

Every shift it feels like the travel from the clutch pedal just gets shorter and shorter but no problem shifting to any gear still goes in fine baffles me. Just when I feel that the pedal is too close to the ground I pull up on the clutch pedal with my foot then start all over again. lower and lower to the floor almost like it gradually does it.

Another thing is that it doesnt do it when im NOT actually driving. Like if I stay in neutral i can pump the pedal all day and it doesnt sink to the ground comes up fine.

Sargeant Sh!tbag

iTrader: (3)

If you arent having any trouble while not moving and you have tested the "put the car in gear and hold clutch to floor in gear with car running to see if it starts rolling" and it doesnt, then you may have a slipping clutch or a failed PP.

slow78z28

iTrader: (1)

Wow do I feel dumb. I guess i overanalyzed it a bit to much apparently it was just the spring i dont have the problem anymore after removing that.. thanks for the replys

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Your clutch pedal looks positioned almost exactly where mine is. I removed the pedal spring on installation. My brand new Monster Stage 2, new slave, and Tick MC shifts perfectly!!