AR15 guy

iTrader: (1)

It appears I made a huge mistake in my first clutch install and I messed up the pilot bushing (scored and it has marks all up in it. I also managed to mess up the new throw out bearing it seems. When I spin the TO bearing it is definitely not round. I assume it happened when I put the tranny in and had to leave it hanging for a second while I got the jack under it.

The problems I was having before the install were noise from the TO bearing between shifts and sometimes I was getting weird rumbling/vibration if I drove it hard. I was also sort of hard to get into gear every once in awhile.

The first noise was gone, but the other stuff got worse after the initial test drive. So I went out and bought a tranny jack and ripped it back apart. Now I need to know how to remove the pilot so I can replace it.

Also is it ok to replace the pilot bushing with a bearing? All the parts stores in the area show a pilot bearing. Also what is the best way to install it?

BALLSS

go buy the new bearing or bushing (stock is bearing). some auto part stores have loaner tools with one being a "blind hole puller". the jaw of the puller needs to fit inside the bearing.

Harbor freight has them pretty cheap also

install, use a socket the size of bearing and drive it in crank flush. DO NOT pound it in past flush with crank face.

AR15 guy

iTrader: (1)

I rented one of those pullers, but its pretty beat and doesn't seem to want to grab.

You sure an lt1 car would have a bearing stock? I ask because I have a stack of receipts and none of them show the pilot bearing was changed. She told me they had never done any transmission work on it. I see no reason she would lie to me about that since she told me everything else (literally I have ever oil change receipt even).

southpaw0314

iTrader: (5)

I rented a blind hole puller from autozone and it worked pretty well for me. bearing is fine

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

+1 for the blind hole puller from Autozone. It was a bitch to get out even with that tool.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

I prefer the threaded puller over the slide hammer style. SK 92522 is a good one.

Rental tools at Autozone work better when you rent out all the junky ones and the next one they give you is brand new.

The GM pilot bearing is great for chewing up the input shaft when it fails. The bronze bushing is cheaper and works fine.

AR15 guy

iTrader: (1)

Could I have had a being from the factory? Mine misusing definitely a bushing and not a bearing.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

The bearing was originally a diesel truck part.
Cars started getting them some time in the 90s.
And... who cares? Replace when the clutch is being replaced. Done.

jeepers_88

iTrader: (13)

they're cheap enough, you should always replace them when doing a clutch anyway. As for the loaner tools, I broke two of them before I got a hammer and small chisel and broke some pieces of the bearing out before it would budge, after all the chiseling, i used the slide hammer type puller tool and it came out without too much of a fight due to me beating the hell out of it with the chisel.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

I used a slide hammer to get mine out. It was not hard at all to get out. It was however hard to get in because the 2 little lips that pull on the bearing were too large to fit inside the bearing. So i had to hammer in the tool, which in turn completely destroyed my stock bearing. Once it was behind the bearing, I expanded the tool enough to use the slide hammer to bring it out. I was replacing the bearing, obviously, so damaging the stock one was no concern.

SilverSS07

iTrader: (1)

I rented that tool from Advance Auto Parts and it worked great for me. Prior to that I rented a slide hammer and pilot bearing puller from Autozone and the puller that fit onto the end of the slide hammer was too big to fit inside the bearing.

AR15 guy

iTrader: (1)

I went and exchanged the loaner tool for a new one. Maybe this one will work.

Alex41

iTrader: (14)

After breaking EVERY end on my slide hammer kit we resolved to take a diegrinder to that bitch. Be careful when you do otherwise you may hit the crank. Once the pressure is off the bearing it should just fall out or be pried out very easily.

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

Since you have an LT1, use the wet toilet paper method. I had my doubts before trying it, but it's the easiest way to remove a pilot bushing IMO.

jc98ss

iTrader: (13)

i rented a blind hole puller for mine and it worked, but not at first.....i couldn't get the bearing to move no matter how hard i tried.....so i took a socket just slightly smaller than the bearing itself and knocked the bearing in towards the motor JUST A TINY BIT (maybe 1mm)......be very careful not to knock it in too much or the puller won't be able to get in behind to grab it or you could knock the rear crank freeze plug into the oil pan.....just a tiny bit to break it loose is all you need.....after that it came out fairly easily.....take your time and don't get frustrated
i just saw that you have an lt1......i don't know if they have the freeze plug in the back of the crank like ls1's

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Been there, done that.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Nope.

AR15 guy

iTrader: (1)

What is the wet paper towel method?

R6cowboy

iTrader: (3)

I just replaced mine out a couple days ago on my LS1 and it was VERY easy. At first I got the loaner pilot bearing puller and slide hammer from Autozone but I didn't attempt to use it due to the 2 jaws being too big to fit into the pilot bearing. Pilot bearing had a 9/16" opening and the 2 jaws of the puller were 5/8", and I wasn't going to hammer in a tool that isn't mine. Instead I borrowed a "homemade" pilot bearing puller that attached to the slide hammer from a friend of mine who's a mechanic at a local shop. Put it in the old pilot bearing and 3 whacks later that baby came right out with no sweat and only a small dent from the puller.

AR15 guy

iTrader: (1)

That tool did not work, but I ended up using a 3/8'' extension and a bunch of wet paper towel to drive it out. Much easier than messing with grease.