HVYMTL

A week ago I replaced my clutch/flywheel/pressure plate/slave with all new parts, and yesterday finally got to swap out for a new master cylinder (stock replacement, not GM unfortunately) Long story short, aside from the fact that I still don't think I have ALL the air bled out (still hard to get into first and reverse is near impossible) my pedal is lower than it was. Has anyone else had an issue like this after replacing a MC?? the pedal when pulled all the way back is about 1/4" shorter than the break pedal.

EDIT: forgot to mention before the master cylinder install, all was functioning great other than the symptoms of a Master cylinder that needed to be replaced, plus I wanted to do the drill mod which I did. What bothers me the most is the shorter pedal... I just dont get it. And I'm thinking that may be why my clutch isn't fully disengaging.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

the jmd method will get all air out:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/13837919-post3.html

Pull back the rubber boot on the old and new master cylinders. Is there a difference in piston bore? Is there a difference in pushrod length?

HVYMTL

UPDATE from work, bled the ol' fashioned way two more times, got a big burst of air on the first opening of the bleeder... Goes into gear now, I'm gonna see how it does on the way home from work and tomorrow morning. I get how the bore size and everything could shorten the pedal throw while still working properly, but with a stock type replacement from O'reilly's? (on a very tight budget) Also I did do the drill mod but I've double and triple checked for leaks while the car was running while someone pumped the pedal...

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

If you have a stock replacement which is not GM, then which one is it?

If you are using a stock MC, do you have the pedal return spring installed? If not, that will cause the pedal to sag a bit.

HVYMTL

The brand is PowerTorque from O'reillys, looks just like a stock MC. And as far as I know, the spring is still there. Halfway home lastnight it started to not disengage again, and then this morning on the way to work it started intermittently working off and on and then the second half of the drive (about 10 miles or so through town) it was going into gear consistently, but reverse is still an issue. I'm guessing there's still just some stubborn air pockets the need to be worked out? My biggest mistake was not bench bleeding the master before installing it... ugh.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Yea, actually I believe ALL stock replacement masters/slaves are made by the same manf. just reboxed. If you buy a GM master & check it against the Duralast Autozone master everything matches, part numers, stickers, everything. Same for the slave. But they only cost $65 each instead of dealership cost & they come with a lifetime warranty. But like you mentioned, it does not come pre-bled.

I'd say you still have alot of bleeding to do honestly.

HVYMTL

haven't had a chance to do anymore bleeding, but it's consistently going into gears now, no more forcing. Reverse is kind of a toss up, sometimes its hard and doesn't want to go in, sometimes it does. And the pedal is still not as firm as it needs to be IMO. It's pretty soft even though it seems as the clutch is actually disengaging now. No more rolling with the clutch pedal on the floor and the trans in gear, so that's good...