t56 rebuild nightmare story, who's to blame?
05-25-2011, 11:37 PM
#1
t56 rebuild nightmare story, who's to blame? Well, here's my saga. I bought an 04 cts-v last october, by the following november, 1st and 2nd gear would grind intermittently. I installed a new master cylinder, slave, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, shifter bushings and transmission mount, all in an attempt to not need to get my transmission rebuilt. It was a failed endeavor, however. The transmission came out this february, and I took it to a guy my friend knew that fixes them.
1st rebuild; he used all "fatsco" brand parts, they were like 890 bucks total between the syncros, blocker rings, fork pads, etc, and a 1-2 hub gear. Worked OK I thought, except he broke my reluctor wheel and I had to buy a new one. I tapped the new one on lightly with pvc and a rubber mallet, and installed the transmission. 1-6 worked fine, I had no R. Took it back and he fixed it. 1200 dollars
2nd time; all gears work swell for a week or so. 2nd gear falls apart and grinds like mad (from me tapping the reluctor wheel on apparently, I still don't buy it), i took it back to him, he gave me a new input shaft, I bought the front pocket bearing and shaft seal, and he tore it down for 300 bucks. He also "cleaned up" 2nd gear, as apparently the reluctor wheel tapping broke a spring clip, and that's what made 2nd break like that.
3rd time; transmission bangs into/pops out of reverse after a week (he insists its not synchronized), a few months later (around 1200 miles) I start grinding into 2nd again. I replaced my slave cylinder, had my clutch and pressure plate out and looked at, and they all check out fine. Oh and I bled the clutch.
What I want to know is, how do I isolate the clutch as a cause of 2nd and R acting funky, also, with most parts being new, what is it worth to look at this and fix this thing?
1st rebuild; he used all "fatsco" brand parts, they were like 890 bucks total between the syncros, blocker rings, fork pads, etc, and a 1-2 hub gear. Worked OK I thought, except he broke my reluctor wheel and I had to buy a new one. I tapped the new one on lightly with pvc and a rubber mallet, and installed the transmission. 1-6 worked fine, I had no R. Took it back and he fixed it. 1200 dollars
2nd time; all gears work swell for a week or so. 2nd gear falls apart and grinds like mad (from me tapping the reluctor wheel on apparently, I still don't buy it), i took it back to him, he gave me a new input shaft, I bought the front pocket bearing and shaft seal, and he tore it down for 300 bucks. He also "cleaned up" 2nd gear, as apparently the reluctor wheel tapping broke a spring clip, and that's what made 2nd break like that.
3rd time; transmission bangs into/pops out of reverse after a week (he insists its not synchronized), a few months later (around 1200 miles) I start grinding into 2nd again. I replaced my slave cylinder, had my clutch and pressure plate out and looked at, and they all check out fine. Oh and I bled the clutch.
What I want to know is, how do I isolate the clutch as a cause of 2nd and R acting funky, also, with most parts being new, what is it worth to look at this and fix this thing?
05-26-2011, 12:04 AM
#2
You can isolate the clutch release by some rpm on level ground with the pedal down, but you can't isolate poor driving (I'm not blaming you; I'm just saying.) That said, it does take a little bit of time for mild but poor driving to kill 2nd and reverse. Usually not just a few short months.
There is some "doesn't make sense" in your cause & effect relationships but that may be misunderstanding between the both of you.
As I tell anyone who brings me one, I can't tell you for sure what it's going to need until it's apart. With the questionable work done previously, it's not going to be a known amount until that point.
There is some "doesn't make sense" in your cause & effect relationships but that may be misunderstanding between the both of you.
As I tell anyone who brings me one, I can't tell you for sure what it's going to need until it's apart. With the questionable work done previously, it's not going to be a known amount until that point.
05-26-2011, 08:15 AM
#3
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05-26-2011, 03:10 PM
#4
Ia m in need of a rebuild as well so I've been reading about all the sponsors here, so many to choose from lol. I would call one up and make arrangements to send it off 
With that said, can someone tell me who has the best warranty for a t56 rebuild?
With that said, can someone tell me who has the best warranty for a t56 rebuild?
05-26-2011, 03:14 PM
#5
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+1 for a reputable shop.
I spent $1,700 (including removing and installation) for a stage 3 "Viper Spec" rebuild. Here we are 8 hard months later and its still as it was on day #1.
I spent $1,700 (including removing and installation) for a stage 3 "Viper Spec" rebuild. Here we are 8 hard months later and its still as it was on day #1.
05-27-2011, 08:11 PM
#6
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not sure if i misread it but it sounds like he didn't check the end play. if he keeps putting new parts in it and the same things keep happening i'm betting he either didn't replace the friction pads or make sure the end play was in spec.
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05-28-2011, 12:51 AM
#9
and I took it to a guy my friend knew that fixes them.
Best advice I can give it is to send it to Jason at TDP and call it a day..You will get it shipped back to you ASAP, and he is a very honest guy. Prices are very fair as well.
05-28-2011, 02:01 PM
#10
well i guess the spring clip etched into the gear and wore it down and that's why it was so high, i asked him if we could replace the gear while it's apart, and he didn't have time to let it sit there for a few days while we waited for a gear.
A lesson lived is a lesson learned.
A lesson lived is a lesson learned.
