Rockland Standard Gear Tailshaft Bushing
#1
Rockland Standard Gear Tailshaft Bushing
Just a little word to the wise:
The rockland standard gear "no walk" tailshaft bushing no doubt has its place. That place, however, is NOT as a stock replacement for a simple worn bushing. Every vendor I've talked to tells me that it is basically a "last resort" bushing, when all others have spun, or the housing bore is too large to accept a stock bushing. They also tell me that they have stopped installing them completely (due to installation failures like mine) or, they only install them in worst- case scenarios. Of course I don't find any of this out until AFTER I install, and ruin one in my T56 Tail housing. Now I just have to hope and pray that it didn't take too much material out of the housing when I installed it that the housing bore will be too large for a stock bushing.
Normally i wouldn't care, but this was a $55 bushing, and now everything that I hear from sponsors tells me that all I need(ed) is a stock one!
I'd also like to hear from those out there that have replaced their output shaft bushing, successfully. Please tell me what type of bushing you got, and what the specified application was for. Also, what means you used to uninstall / reinstall the bushing.
The rockland standard gear "no walk" tailshaft bushing no doubt has its place. That place, however, is NOT as a stock replacement for a simple worn bushing. Every vendor I've talked to tells me that it is basically a "last resort" bushing, when all others have spun, or the housing bore is too large to accept a stock bushing. They also tell me that they have stopped installing them completely (due to installation failures like mine) or, they only install them in worst- case scenarios. Of course I don't find any of this out until AFTER I install, and ruin one in my T56 Tail housing. Now I just have to hope and pray that it didn't take too much material out of the housing when I installed it that the housing bore will be too large for a stock bushing.
Normally i wouldn't care, but this was a $55 bushing, and now everything that I hear from sponsors tells me that all I need(ed) is a stock one!
I'd also like to hear from those out there that have replaced their output shaft bushing, successfully. Please tell me what type of bushing you got, and what the specified application was for. Also, what means you used to uninstall / reinstall the bushing.
#3
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
For the GM 27 spline stuff, I've used both bronze & lead babbit types. Timken, Delco and others repackage both as different PNs. They are the same for tonnes of applications; if it's 27 spline RWD, it takes it.
An f-body tailhousing being too large of i.d. is pretty funny to me; many are tight & the bushing goes into the oil grooves. That's the only part of rebuilding T56s that sometimes fails no matter how much you freeze the bushing, heat the tailhousing and press or drive the bushing in.
A poorly lubricated bushing due to high-speed run can fail but if a new one is installed in a housing that has proper tight clearances, you're not going to tend to have a problem with them.
IMO, the length of the stocker is sufficient for it's support of the vertical / lateral play of the mainshaft, given the length of the mainshaft to yoke spline section providing more than adequate alignment.
Get lemons, make lemonade: If your tailhousing happened to be too large for the new bushing you install, pull it and get it bored and go Chrysler output 30 spline shaft.
Re: other persons w/ them, there have been a handful of threads here.
More here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/14732770-post2.html
An f-body tailhousing being too large of i.d. is pretty funny to me; many are tight & the bushing goes into the oil grooves. That's the only part of rebuilding T56s that sometimes fails no matter how much you freeze the bushing, heat the tailhousing and press or drive the bushing in.
A poorly lubricated bushing due to high-speed run can fail but if a new one is installed in a housing that has proper tight clearances, you're not going to tend to have a problem with them.
IMO, the length of the stocker is sufficient for it's support of the vertical / lateral play of the mainshaft, given the length of the mainshaft to yoke spline section providing more than adequate alignment.
Get lemons, make lemonade: If your tailhousing happened to be too large for the new bushing you install, pull it and get it bored and go Chrysler output 30 spline shaft.
Re: other persons w/ them, there have been a handful of threads here.
More here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/14732770-post2.html
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#8
... I guess i should have been more clear. The ID of the housing was too small, thus forcing the bushing to be squeezed out into the oil gallies (sp?) in the housing. I guess i'll drive it out and get a new bushing, but i'm a little nervous about installing another one.
#9
11 Second Club
iTrader: (37)
Mike
#10
I installed a driveshaft that a fine upstanding citizen of LS1tech ripped me off on. The driveshaft was out of round (.030 runout) as well as being out of balance. I only drove it for a short amount of time (10-15 miles) with said driveshaft, intermittently try to determine the cause of my vibration. I replaced the driveshaft with a brand new one, and the vibration was all but gone. I've been chasing this vibration since last October. I've checked every single piece of the drive line, and this (bushing) was the only thing that hadn't been checked off my list of things that could possibly be causing my vibration.
#11
I just wanted to give a little update on this "vibration" issue. I installed a new tailshaft bushing (part # xxxxx) and it was a perfect fit. I actually had to sand down the ID of the bushing, and mated it PERFECTLY to my yoke. Nice and tight, just the way I like it .
Then my vibration was still persistent. It would vibrate beginning around 80, and linearly increase to terrifying proportions from there.
HUGE thanks to studderin on this next part. He gave me a little advice that has helped, not eliminated, but helped my vibration issue GREATLY. What he told me to do is, put a washer (i used two) between the transmission crossmember and the body, on the bolts. Apparently that U joint was just pissed off with its working angle, or something. I'm going to make up some ~1/4" spacer plates, and hopefully this will remedy my issue.
Now, my vibration is MUCH less, and comes on about 90, and is tolerable up to the top of 4th ~120. I'm going to space it down some more, but I'm just excited to be able to rip the car!!!!!
Then my vibration was still persistent. It would vibrate beginning around 80, and linearly increase to terrifying proportions from there.
HUGE thanks to studderin on this next part. He gave me a little advice that has helped, not eliminated, but helped my vibration issue GREATLY. What he told me to do is, put a washer (i used two) between the transmission crossmember and the body, on the bolts. Apparently that U joint was just pissed off with its working angle, or something. I'm going to make up some ~1/4" spacer plates, and hopefully this will remedy my issue.
Now, my vibration is MUCH less, and comes on about 90, and is tolerable up to the top of 4th ~120. I'm going to space it down some more, but I'm just excited to be able to rip the car!!!!!
#13
OP.
Click here for the solution to my persistant T56 vibration problem.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...vibration.html
Click here for the solution to my persistant T56 vibration problem.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...vibration.html
THAT IS NOT THE PROBLEM.
My vibration is in any gear in which you can reach 80. It is not a vibration in the transmission...................................... .................
#14
Just curious but what kind of drive shaft? I had a bronze bushing walk and used my friends tail shaft with stock bushing and I had new u-joints installed and balanced my drive shaft and still had the vibe. I have now got rid of that steel drive shaft with a pst aluminum one and put my tail housing back together with another bronze bushing and all my vibes are gone.
I remember reading that steel vs aluminum drive shafts carry harmonics differently so idk if that could be what plays into the improvement.
I remember reading that steel vs aluminum drive shafts carry harmonics differently so idk if that could be what plays into the improvement.
#15
Just curious but what kind of drive shaft? I had a bronze bushing walk and used my friends tail shaft with stock bushing and I had new u-joints installed and balanced my drive shaft and still had the vibe. I have now got rid of that steel drive shaft with a pst aluminum one and put my tail housing back together with another bronze bushing and all my vibes are gone.
I remember reading that steel vs aluminum drive shafts carry harmonics differently so idk if that could be what plays into the improvement.
I remember reading that steel vs aluminum drive shafts carry harmonics differently so idk if that could be what plays into the improvement.
Last edited by STEEPSS; 07-12-2011 at 11:47 AM.
#16
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (12)
I have some more thoughts on your issue but I am only afraid I will further waste more your time and only get yelled at. I WISH YOU LUCK.
#17
I aplogize for not tracking your many threads for redundancies, apparently wasting your time and posting what I think might be helpful information to your issue in a completely different thread.
I have some more thoughts on your issue but I am only afraid I will further waste more your time and only get yelled at. I WISH YOU LUCK.
I have some more thoughts on your issue but I am only afraid I will further waste more your time and only get yelled at. I WISH YOU LUCK.
#20
If the vibration only started after you did something to the rear end, then the rear end is the problem.
Stop looking at the transmission/driveshaft as your issue. If the vibration was not there before you did whatever to the rear end, then the rear end is the problem.
Check your pinion angle, try it at zero, try it at -.5, then -1.5, then -2. Try to determine if doing that changes the vibration at all. If not, then set it to where you want it and leave the trans and driveshaft alone.
Hell, want the ultimate test, swap your 9" into someone else car. Yeah, huge PITA, but if it has a vibration in someone elses car with thier transmission, then again, it is the rear end.
Fact of the matter is, no-one can help you on this over the internet. That is the only truth here. Everything anyone suggests is grabbing at straws.
Tear the rear end apart and have all the pieces checked out for issues. I mean, what "mod" did you do to the rear end that changed it from smooth to having this vibration?