CJDZ24_Z28

iTrader: (75)

I have had tons of f-bodies but never used or felt one of these clutches. I did a search and couldn't find too many opinions about them. I may just go LS6 or ls7 but I'm already dumping more money into the car than i wanted to with the motor and trans rebuild. Any thoughts would be appreciated. BTW car will not make over 400hp or 400ft lbs of torque

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

Mine felt like stock and held really good

20ws601

just had a spec 3+ put in and got used to it in a weekend.. so a spec 1 or 2 should be even easier... so far love it and I wouldn't go lower than a 2. Had the ls6 it was ok but the ls7 is supposed to be really good for average driving but I keep hearing it may slip after repeated beatings. I say go 2 or ls7.

Deviant LS1

iTrader: (4)

I put a Spec 2 in my car Spring of 2009. I have about 20k+ miles on it. Right now this clutch is holding 510whp/626wtq on the nitrous. It hasn't skipped a beat. No engagement issues and the pedal is nice and high. The pedal feel is slightly heavier than stock and grab feels just like stock.

I installed it with ARP hardware, a new slave, a new master, a brand new OEM LS1 flywheel and the provided shim. I have a remote bleeder and I bleed the system every couple months to keep good fluid in it. I have yet to have issue with it. When the new motor setup went in August of 2010 the clutch and pressure plate had some wear but it was all still in good condition. So the Spec 2 went back in.

Once this Spec 2 has had enough I'll be upgrading to a Spec 2+.

An LS7 Clutch is only rated for 500hp/500tq in a 3200lb car. It's also much larger and heavier than an LS1 setup. I wouldn't recommend an OEM replacement clutch. You want an upgrade not something marginally better.

4WOFURY

iTrader: (2)

I have a Spec 2 in my car. The clutch pedal has a pretty heavy feel compared to other f-bodies I've driven, but not unbearable.

I daily drove the car for 2 years, with occasional beating. Driveability is great, very smooth engagement.

My gripe is that I've only gotten 13k miles out of this clutch, and it's toast. This is in a full weight (and then some) T/A with heads and cam making just over 400rwhp.

If I did it over again, I'd probably get a Monster 2 instead. I have a Monster 3 going in now.

BALLSS

[QUOTE=Deviant LS1;15078120]Once this Spec 2 has had enough I'll be upgrading to a Spec 2+.

QUOTE]

my 2+ with 2k miles on it. 2nd season 1st race.

I would go with their 3+

Deviant LS1

iTrader: (4)

I thought the Spec 2+ was still a full disk and not a puck style. Are the Spec "stages" different between LS1's and LT1's? I know I don't want a pucked disk. I'll have to look into that.

95maroz28

iTrader: (21)

i got a 2+ with tick masteron cam only untuned car with about 3k on it. seems to hold up alright and feels like stock. about to throw the turbo on we'll see it holds

BALLSS

from their site...assume for all applications

the 1, 3+ and 5 are "full face" discs

http://www.specclutch.com/products

98ws6blk

I'd skip the spec.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

It all comes down to usage. The 1,2, 2+ and even 3+ are all very drivable on the street but they offer different torque capacities and have different responses to aggressive usage. I am a fan of the 2+ (this is what I have used in my last three personal cars) which have seen street, drag, and even road-race usage. This unit will be more resistent to heat associated with slipping the clutch than the Stage 2 which uses Kevlar on both sides. Of course, if you get out of the pedal and don't slip the clutch when leaving from a stopped position the 2 is easily able to handle your torque output. Let me know if you have any further questions and I will be happy to assist you. Thanks!!