any body here pro with the t56 if you can figure this one out your a t56 god lol
07-02-2011, 08:13 PM
#1
Launching!
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any body here pro with the t56 if you can figure this one out your a t56 god lol Hey guys well i posted a clutch problem about a week ago i changed my slave and my master cylinder bled the system but still have the same problem not sure maybe i need the mity vac but as before i start the car in nuetral will not go into any gear the way its suppose to, i put it in gear while its off and start it the car moves foward while it cranks then it starts and runs but very difficult to get into gear sometimes it will go in the gears when i double press the clutch, but not so easy it still seems to grind the only thing that i havnt changed would be the braided line going from the master to the slave and the rubber one going from the resevoir to the master, i still think its akward how i was driving it perfectly fine the day before.... I came home parked it in the garage next morning try to goto the store it wouldnt go into gear.... Please any advice would be great id hate to drop the tranny again lol
07-02-2011, 09:21 PM
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You have air in the system, and your clutch is not disengaging. Your car should never move like that with the clutch pedal in. What exactly did you do to bleed it?
07-02-2011, 09:59 PM
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Launching!
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Sorry for the late reply i just got done doing the drill mod, i simply fill the resevoir to the top and crack the bleeder valve push the pedal down till almost to the ground and close the valve then release the pedal pump it a couple times to check the pressure then repeat the process a few times
07-02-2011, 10:49 PM
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the bleeding process I have always used is to pump the pedal hold it to the floor, open then close bleeder. repeat until proper operation. are you doing the bleeding by yourself or with help? The reason I ask is, when you let go of the clutch with the bleeder open, you suck air back in. I have used the mityvac and it usually solves all your problems quickly because it pulls the fluid thru.
07-03-2011, 12:06 AM
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the bleeding process I have always used is to pump the pedal hold it to the floor, open then close bleeder. repeat until proper operation. are you doing the bleeding by yourself or with help? The reason I ask is, when you let go of the clutch with the bleeder open, you suck air back in. I have used the mityvac and it usually solves all your problems quickly because it pulls the fluid thru.
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im so lost guys
07-03-2011, 10:42 PM
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I guess a question to ask, I realize that you probably cant remember, but does the clutch pedal feel different now(with the pressure) than it did before you replaced anything? Can you feel the clutch release? IF not, then look into the slave cylinder.
07-04-2011, 05:24 AM
#15
Sounds like you have really gotten a lot of air in the system now. Your running a spec so you should be running the shim correct? If so, and everything is new like it should be when replacing a clutch in these cars then follow these instructions and you should start seeing some kind of a difference.
-Fill the reservoir and put the cap back on (this creates the vacuum you need)
-push the clutch pedal down once and hold then have someone open the bleeder then close it
-now pump the pedal 25-30 times (some will disagree, but this has always worked for me and some others) and hold then crack the bleeder again. It should spit and sputter audibly. Check fluid
-close the bleeder and repeat until it's just straight fluid coming out without any air noises. Keep a check on your fluid after every other crack of the bleeder
-you should feel some pedal by the 3rd-5th cycle depending on how much air you have already gotten in the system
After you get it bled, take it out and beat on it, then bring it back and do the bleed process again. It'll be good to go then.
-Fill the reservoir and put the cap back on (this creates the vacuum you need)
-push the clutch pedal down once and hold then have someone open the bleeder then close it
-now pump the pedal 25-30 times (some will disagree, but this has always worked for me and some others) and hold then crack the bleeder again. It should spit and sputter audibly. Check fluid
-close the bleeder and repeat until it's just straight fluid coming out without any air noises. Keep a check on your fluid after every other crack of the bleeder
-you should feel some pedal by the 3rd-5th cycle depending on how much air you have already gotten in the system
After you get it bled, take it out and beat on it, then bring it back and do the bleed process again. It'll be good to go then.
07-04-2011, 11:48 AM
#17
Did it work? Sometimes it may require both methods of the old way and the mityvac. I've never had to use a mityvac on mine, but used it on some other cars just to see and to be honest, it always seemed to get that extra lil bit out, but never did the whole job. What I mean is do the old method, then when you've gotten most of the air out, use the mityvac to get the rest out. Also dont pull more than 15 on the gauge or you'll damage the seals on your slave cylinder and be pulling the tranny again.