Clutch Install Questions
#1
Staging Lane
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Clutch Install Questions
I recently killed my stock clutch on a road trip, so I purchased a Monster Stage 3 (go big or go home right?). I plan on doing tranny mounts and u-joints while I'm in there.
My questions are: Is there anything else I should do while I have the transmission out? Is the Monster remote bleeder worth the money? The last clutch I installed was a ceramic clutch in a Cummins truck, so I'm not sure what I need to do with the ls1. I have read that bleeding these things is a bitch, but I'm still not sure exactly why that is.
Any helpful tips or suggestions would be much appreciated!
Chris
My questions are: Is there anything else I should do while I have the transmission out? Is the Monster remote bleeder worth the money? The last clutch I installed was a ceramic clutch in a Cummins truck, so I'm not sure what I need to do with the ls1. I have read that bleeding these things is a bitch, but I'm still not sure exactly why that is.
Any helpful tips or suggestions would be much appreciated!
Chris
#2
Staging Lane
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Alot of guys change the slave and all while they are in there. I would check it for leaks and change the throw-out bearing and the pilot bearing. As far as the remote bleeder, im not sure about the monster one, but i have a Earl's one on mine and it was worth the money. Makes bleedig cake work.
#3
Staging Lane
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I believe the Monster clutch kit comes with the pilot and throw out bearings. The slave cylinder is probably a good idea. I bought a hand vacuum pump to bleed the system today after reading around on the best way to bleed these.
What is the best slave to run? Just the factory replacement?
Feel free to add anything else, I can use all the help I can get!
Chris
What is the best slave to run? Just the factory replacement?
Feel free to add anything else, I can use all the help I can get!
Chris
#4
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Just did a Monster Level 3 on my 99 Formula about 2 months ago.
I upgraded to a TICK Performance Master Cylinder, installed a new GM Slave Cylinder, new U-joints, and a TICK Remote Bleeder while I was in there.
The Bleeder is worth its weight in gold. I have no idea how anyone bleeds their Clutch Hydraulic System with the factory bleeder, unless they are willing to drill a hole in there floorpan/transmission hump. I was not. It still takes two people to bleed it, but with the Remote Bleeder Line ran up into the engine bay, nobody has to be under the car to perform this task. I highly recommend the bleeder.
My master was on its way out (clutch pedal sticking to the floor), which is what prompted me to want the TICK Unit. And not wanting to get the new MC contaminated with old Clutch Fluid meant I had to replace the Slave as well. In order to get to the Slave the Transmission must be removed. And if the tranny has to come out, I figured I might as well upgrade my clutch while I'm at it.
This is the line of thoughts that I followed and would recommend it to anybody else who is having similar issues with their clutch hydraulic system.
I upgraded to a TICK Performance Master Cylinder, installed a new GM Slave Cylinder, new U-joints, and a TICK Remote Bleeder while I was in there.
The Bleeder is worth its weight in gold. I have no idea how anyone bleeds their Clutch Hydraulic System with the factory bleeder, unless they are willing to drill a hole in there floorpan/transmission hump. I was not. It still takes two people to bleed it, but with the Remote Bleeder Line ran up into the engine bay, nobody has to be under the car to perform this task. I highly recommend the bleeder.
My master was on its way out (clutch pedal sticking to the floor), which is what prompted me to want the TICK Unit. And not wanting to get the new MC contaminated with old Clutch Fluid meant I had to replace the Slave as well. In order to get to the Slave the Transmission must be removed. And if the tranny has to come out, I figured I might as well upgrade my clutch while I'm at it.
This is the line of thoughts that I followed and would recommend it to anybody else who is having similar issues with their clutch hydraulic system.
#7
i got monster stage 2 kit from tick performance .everything speed bleed,master,and slave. worth every penny!! i ran my speed bleeder along the fuel lines behind the heat shields and exited under the drivers side door . easy to pump pedal and bleed, when i was done i tucked the remaining line up in two holes in the subframe nearby nice and slick and protected
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#8
Replace everything while you are down there. When getting the bolts off the bellhousing (11 and 1 o clock bolts, lower the tranny all the way down. Get your hands on about a 1.5 feet of extensions. Have someone under the to help place the socket on the bolts. You can sit in the car and turn the wrench in the shifter opening. Have used that method on my car and a buddies last night. Works great. Make sure everything is aligned correctly and when you start to bleed, Bleed the slave first. Then move to using the mity vac.
#9
FormerVendor
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Install is pretty straight forward. We recommend a remote bleeder of some kind for two reasons. 1) It keeps fluid out of the bellhousing which eliminates possible contamination of the clutch. 2) It makes it a hell of a lot easier to bleed.
If you have any questions during your install feel free to give us a call!
If you have any questions during your install feel free to give us a call!
#10
Staging Lane
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I called BYUNspeed back today and had them add on a GM slave and flywheel/pressure plate bolts. I'm going to pick up u-joints and tranny mounts tomorrow. BYUN told me today that my clutch should be in tomorrow or Friday. Hopefully this weekend I will have time to knock all this out. If I remember and have enough time I will take some pictures of all this in case this thread ever comes up on a search.
Thanks SNL, I might actually take you up on that
Chris
Thanks SNL, I might actually take you up on that
Chris