Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

So my tranny/clutch/hydraulics and everything were pulled a few months ago. I Sold the motor i had and built another. Now that i went to install everything exactly as it was i cant get the clutch to disengage.

The clutch worked fine last November the first and last time i drove it. Now nothing, Bled with a mityvac, and its got awesome pedal feel, but it won't let go of the flywheel.

The hydraulics all GM, master has under 30k, and the slave is brand new other than the one drive in november. The flywheel and clutch are both spec, And the shim that came with it is installed.

Before pulling the tranny i decided to take my GM master and convert it to adjustable. I cut that shaft and welded on a nut and bolt so i could adjust a little. Well i got more travel but still nothing.

Not sure what to do next other than pulling the tranny and measuring for shim thickness. What i don't understand is how would it work perfectly fine before i pulled it, and now nothing. Nothing changed except the engine.

I would get a Tick, but im using a highly modified f-body pedal assembly where the master is mounted from the front not the back so the big body on the tick won't fit. May look into a McCleod if it actually displaced more fluid.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

JMD method bleed it to really get the air out since the mity-vac method doesn't.

If that fails, pull it and review the shim situation.

Don't quote me, but I thought the McLeod was 1/16" larger bore.

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

I Also bled some from the bottom. Last time i bled it worked just find with the mityvac method and not touching the bleeder

As for master, im going to have to make a custom one. For now i think i may pull and measure shim situation.

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

tranny is out. reading how to measure for shim.

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

WTFF So my spacing is almost identical. I have 2.17 from face to fingers, and 2.16 from bearing to face. According to the tick webisite i need atleast .125 for bearing travel, so i have less and still can't disengage.

Any ideas. I may try a new master next. My issue is i don't want to use an fbody one. I want to get something that will better fit my pedal assembly. Im using a wilwood low profile for my breaks, so i need to find what bore and stroke to use my the clutch.

Anyone know what the tick is using?

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

Can anyone chime in on my shim measurments???

I have a wilwood master with a 7/8th bore and 1.12 stroke im going to try, but would like to know if there is any issuse with my shimming before i bolt the tranny back up.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Marcello, As discussed in email you need to open the bleeder to release pressure on the bearing and then compress it (with the spring removed) to get an accurate measurement. Check this out and let me know what you find. Thanks,

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

Shall do, sadly my -4an to gm slave adapter hose wont be in till tuesday, so i won't be able to test a different master. At the very least i'd like to have the tranny back in and everything ready to go.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Nothing worse than waiting! Keep me posted. Thanks,

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for all the help, tranny is back in and now im going to retry the stock master for the hell of it. My only thought for why i wouldn't need a shim now is that the new crank pushes the flywheel back a little more than the stocker.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Understood...that is why it is always best to check your measurements. You don't need to use the shim unless your measurements call for it. Keep me posted. Thanks,

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

So i got a new master in. Its actually a 13/16 bore 1.12 stroke. I can get the clutch to disengage enough to roll down some mini ramps i made. But if i try and push the car its still a little difficult. I've spent alot of time bleading. Monday a 7/8's bore master comes in that i will be using instead of the 13/16 bore.

Is this typical? That it barely disengages? I have read people get disengagement very low, then it moves up after break in, is this similar? Will i get better?

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

Gave it another test with the ramps. Disengagement is about halfway to the floor. A very comfortable level of throw. But it still seems to not roll easy unless on the ramps.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

I am not sure I understand the reference to the ramps. Please clarify. Thanks,

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

I was using the ramps to be able to push the clutch in and roll the car w/o help. anyways thanks for all the help, i installed a tick master equivilent and everything works great now.

Sadly as i mentioned in the email this clutch won't hold up to the amount of nitrous i want to spray, so its for sale in the classifieds unless i change my mind at some point.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

We offer other stages of course and even disc options that would be interchangable. Just let me know if I can help you. Thanks,

Marcello7x

iTrader: (10)

Shall do, although i may go to twin disc, so i can't just upgrade the disc!

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

We offer those too, with 4 different disc set-up options. Either way, let me know. Thanks,