What happened to my clutch PICS
07-26-2011, 12:35 PM
#1
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What happened to my clutch PICS i had this clutch in my lt1 when it was stock then i blew headgasket and rebuild the motor to a 355 with a cc503 cam. the clutch had maybe 4k on it when the motor blew. i reused it when i put the 355 in and it lasted less than 1k??? the clutch was slipping so bad the car wouldnt move. the only thing i did to the clutch after the motor blew was get the flywheel resurfaced. someone tell me what happened please. also the really dark spots on the flywheel and pressure plate are deep groves cut into it
07-26-2011, 01:29 PM
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it worked fine before the motor blew.it literally has 600 miles since the new motor was put in. do you think the motor makes too much power for that clutch? what should i do about the flywheel now?
07-26-2011, 02:10 PM
#6
It is hard to tell in the pics but was the flywheel cut on the mounting surface too? In other words is the flywheel fully flat? It looks like the mounting surface, where the plate bolts on, is higher than the friction surface. If there is a recess this would effectively make the flywheel friction surface lower than it should be. Can you confirm the flywheels flatness?
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07-26-2011, 04:28 PM
#9
Let me get this straight.
The clutch was installed and working.
The engine blew.
You had the flywheel turned and the engine rebuilt.
The pressure plate was not turned.
You got < 1,000mi. out of the clutch.
If that's correct, the reason is bolded. The FW surface must be new or newly turned when the PP surface is and vice versa.
The clutch was installed and working.
The engine blew.
You had the flywheel turned and the engine rebuilt.
The pressure plate was not turned.
You got < 1,000mi. out of the clutch.
If that's correct, the reason is bolded. The FW surface must be new or newly turned when the PP surface is and vice versa.
Last edited by jmd; 07-26-2011 at 05:24 PM.
07-26-2011, 04:52 PM
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the ledge you think you are see is clutch material it rubs off.yes the flywheel was resurfaced and not the pressure plate cause they also neutral balenced the flywheel. idk if this helps but when i started to notice the clutch slipping it was in higher gears likes 4,5,6. then it started getting really bad and slipped with almost no throtle. i could basically just hit the gas and side step the clutch pedal and the clutch would act as if i was slowly coming off the clutch and it had that wonderfull clutch dying smell
07-26-2011, 06:47 PM
#12
When mine failed in my LS1 car...it happened in 6th gear on the cruise control...you put more load on it there than you do to hold the same speed in say 4th or 3rd...I managed to drive the car 100 miles home like that in 4th and 3rd though...just had to pretend the throttle was an egg.
I'd say if you bought all new stuff, then, just make sure you torque everything properly when you install the new flywheel and the new pressure plate and you should be ok...make sure everything is very very clean when you install it too.
I'd say if you bought all new stuff, then, just make sure you torque everything properly when you install the new flywheel and the new pressure plate and you should be ok...make sure everything is very very clean when you install it too.
07-27-2011, 03:18 PM
#14
you had a basic stock replacement clutch then built the motor with more power which simply over powered the "used" clutch. It takes very little to burn/glaze the clutch as you have and kill it with the increased power.
Also the resurface of FW may have not been exactly flat but a "cupped" resurface as the engagement area looks to be not all of the friction area.
get a new FW, have it neutral balanced if your motor is now a internal (neutral) balanced motor, or buy a billet zero balanced FW like SPEC has. Good idea to have PP zero balanced also with FW if internal balance motor.
you need a better clutch now than just a stock organic disc replacement clutch
Also the resurface of FW may have not been exactly flat but a "cupped" resurface as the engagement area looks to be not all of the friction area.
get a new FW, have it neutral balanced if your motor is now a internal (neutral) balanced motor, or buy a billet zero balanced FW like SPEC has. Good idea to have PP zero balanced also with FW if internal balance motor.
you need a better clutch now than just a stock organic disc replacement clutch
