New Clutch Adjustment?
08-07-2011, 03:49 PM
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New Clutch Adjustment? I just had the slave cylinder fail and since the clutch had significant wear (it is a '98 with 60K miles), I had a garage replace the entire clutch assembly with an OEM kit as well as the slave cylinder.
I get it back and I have to push the pedal hard against the floor just to push the shifter into any gear. Reverse was almost impossible even standing still. I just barely come off the floor and the clutch is all the way out.
Shifting is difficult and downshifting to second to go around a corner is a huge challenge - as is putting it back in first while stopped at a red light. It resists going into any gear with the engine running.
I know new ones are supposed to be tight, and they said it would be self adjusting, but is this normal? Do these things self adjust themselves back out to a manageable level?
For about the upper 90% of the pedal travel, nothing happens. It is all within that last 10% next to the floor.
I'll probalby take it on one more short test drive and if it doesn't losen up significantly, I'll take it back to the shop on Monday. Any chance it has damaged the new clutch? My driveway is steep and I have to enter it at a crawl, so in order to keep it from dying I had to rev it a bit hard and barely pull out on the clutch to get it climb the driveway. Right after that as I got out of it, the smell of the clutch was very strong.
All together I have probably put 2 miles on it since leaving the shop and I am a bit concerned.
Any thoughts?
BTW, it is a '98 WS6 with the M6 transmission / standard shifter with a skip shift eliminator installed. Overall the car is pretty much stock.
Thanks, guys!
I get it back and I have to push the pedal hard against the floor just to push the shifter into any gear. Reverse was almost impossible even standing still. I just barely come off the floor and the clutch is all the way out.
Shifting is difficult and downshifting to second to go around a corner is a huge challenge - as is putting it back in first while stopped at a red light. It resists going into any gear with the engine running.
I know new ones are supposed to be tight, and they said it would be self adjusting, but is this normal? Do these things self adjust themselves back out to a manageable level?
For about the upper 90% of the pedal travel, nothing happens. It is all within that last 10% next to the floor.
I'll probalby take it on one more short test drive and if it doesn't losen up significantly, I'll take it back to the shop on Monday. Any chance it has damaged the new clutch? My driveway is steep and I have to enter it at a crawl, so in order to keep it from dying I had to rev it a bit hard and barely pull out on the clutch to get it climb the driveway. Right after that as I got out of it, the smell of the clutch was very strong.
All together I have probably put 2 miles on it since leaving the shop and I am a bit concerned.
Any thoughts?
BTW, it is a '98 WS6 with the M6 transmission / standard shifter with a skip shift eliminator installed. Overall the car is pretty much stock.
Thanks, guys!
08-08-2011, 05:51 PM
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This is the exact same problem I am having. I just installed a Monster stage 4 with new slave and braided clutch line in my friends GTO and that is what's happening. I bleed it for 3 hours with a Mity Vac and there was still bubbles coming out it hasn't gotten any better
08-11-2011, 10:11 PM
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BigJ,
I got mine back from the shop today and they found the problem. The pressure plate springs were not adjusted to the fully compressed position before installation. They had to tear it completely apart again and installed another brand new clutch assembly to fix it.
I don't know if it had bubbles while bleeding it but this fixed the travel problem.
I have it back and it drives 1000x better. The clutch still starts to let out closer to the floor than it used to, but at least it lets you put it into gear.
Good luck with yours and hope you get straightened out.
-Q
I got mine back from the shop today and they found the problem. The pressure plate springs were not adjusted to the fully compressed position before installation. They had to tear it completely apart again and installed another brand new clutch assembly to fix it.
I don't know if it had bubbles while bleeding it but this fixed the travel problem.
I have it back and it drives 1000x better. The clutch still starts to let out closer to the floor than it used to, but at least it lets you put it into gear.
Good luck with yours and hope you get straightened out.
-Q
08-12-2011, 08:55 AM
#4
SAC plates FTL...! Proper spring compression on a self-adjusting type pressure-plate is critical and it is often overlooked. If the springs are not fully compressed prioror to install you will wind up with release issues and there is nothing worse than doing the same job twice. At least you found the issue and all is well now!
