2001 Trams Am Clutch problem
08-07-2011, 08:39 PM
#1
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2001 Trams Am Clutch problem I have a 2001 WS6 Trans Am with a 6 speed transmission. It has 27,000 miles on it. Is also has the ram air package if that matters.
Something is wrong with the clutch. If I step on the clutch pedal for more than maybe 5 to 10 seconds, it seems to go back into gear by it's self. It seems like it is even worse if I use reverse.
My clutch started creaking when I would step on it. It kinda sounded like a spring would when it stretches. It did that for a little while and I didn't really think anything about it. Anyway, one day it sounded like maybe something broke or came loose and I for sure heard a small piece of something fall onto the road. Very shortly after that is when the clutch started acting as I said above.
I have been reading and it seems like it must be the slave or master cylinder or possibly a couple of other things. It did check the fluid reservoir and it is full. How do I figure out what the problem is? While I am somewhat mechanically inclined because I work on a drill rig, I do not know a lot about working on automobiles. Even if I can't fix it myself, I would at least like to know for sure what the problem is before I take it somewhere. I recently moved so I am new to the area and don't know the reputation of any of the repair shops in the area and I would rather avoid taking to a dealer because they are so insanely expensive. (The only one in the area wanted a little over $500 to replace the passenger window motor so I did it myself.)
I should also say that of course the car has sit a lot. Even months at a time on more than a few occasions. I would start it and let it run when I could but I was out of town a lot so sometimes that was not possible. It is in a garage.
I have never abused the car either. Of course I have driven it well over 100 quite few times but I never burn the tires or dump the clutch.
Thanks to anyone who takes a look at this.
The Car.
Something is wrong with the clutch. If I step on the clutch pedal for more than maybe 5 to 10 seconds, it seems to go back into gear by it's self. It seems like it is even worse if I use reverse.
My clutch started creaking when I would step on it. It kinda sounded like a spring would when it stretches. It did that for a little while and I didn't really think anything about it. Anyway, one day it sounded like maybe something broke or came loose and I for sure heard a small piece of something fall onto the road. Very shortly after that is when the clutch started acting as I said above.
I have been reading and it seems like it must be the slave or master cylinder or possibly a couple of other things. It did check the fluid reservoir and it is full. How do I figure out what the problem is? While I am somewhat mechanically inclined because I work on a drill rig, I do not know a lot about working on automobiles. Even if I can't fix it myself, I would at least like to know for sure what the problem is before I take it somewhere. I recently moved so I am new to the area and don't know the reputation of any of the repair shops in the area and I would rather avoid taking to a dealer because they are so insanely expensive. (The only one in the area wanted a little over $500 to replace the passenger window motor so I did it myself.)
I should also say that of course the car has sit a lot. Even months at a time on more than a few occasions. I would start it and let it run when I could but I was out of town a lot so sometimes that was not possible. It is in a garage.
I have never abused the car either. Of course I have driven it well over 100 quite few times but I never burn the tires or dump the clutch.
Thanks to anyone who takes a look at this.
The Car.
08-08-2011, 10:42 AM
#2
Staying released only 5-10 seconds points fairly certainly to the master cylinder.
If you're mechanically inclined, the master cylinder is an easy swap, other than a little frustration lining the retaining u-bolt into the firewall holes.
Real quick:
loosen the two nuts inside the car so the master can move a little.
unclip it at the pedal and wiggle it off that stud.
remove the two nuts
push the u-bolt into the engine bay; this will drop any factory star/lock washers on the carpet.
From the eng. bay, you'll be pulling the master into the engine bay and removing a roll-pin retaining the line.
When that's all reversed w/ the new master, bleeding is the important (and tricky) part so your clutch works tip-top again.
Nothing gets air out of fresh new fluid like the JMD method.
If you're mechanically inclined, the master cylinder is an easy swap, other than a little frustration lining the retaining u-bolt into the firewall holes.
Real quick:
loosen the two nuts inside the car so the master can move a little.
unclip it at the pedal and wiggle it off that stud.
remove the two nuts
push the u-bolt into the engine bay; this will drop any factory star/lock washers on the carpet.
From the eng. bay, you'll be pulling the master into the engine bay and removing a roll-pin retaining the line.
When that's all reversed w/ the new master, bleeding is the important (and tricky) part so your clutch works tip-top again.
Nothing gets air out of fresh new fluid like the JMD method.
08-08-2011, 01:06 PM
#3
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Staying released only 5-10 seconds points fairly certainly to the master cylinder.
If you're mechanically inclined, the master cylinder is an easy swap, other than a little frustration lining the retaining u-bolt into the firewall holes.
Real quick:
loosen the two nuts inside the car so the master can move a little.
unclip it at the pedal and wiggle it off that stud.
remove the two nuts
push the u-bolt into the engine bay; this will drop any factory star/lock washers on the carpet.
From the eng. bay, you'll be pulling the master into the engine bay and removing a roll-pin retaining the line.
When that's all reversed w/ the new master, bleeding is the important (and tricky) part so your clutch works tip-top again.
Nothing gets air out of fresh new fluid like the JMD method.
If you're mechanically inclined, the master cylinder is an easy swap, other than a little frustration lining the retaining u-bolt into the firewall holes.
Real quick:
loosen the two nuts inside the car so the master can move a little.
unclip it at the pedal and wiggle it off that stud.
remove the two nuts
push the u-bolt into the engine bay; this will drop any factory star/lock washers on the carpet.
From the eng. bay, you'll be pulling the master into the engine bay and removing a roll-pin retaining the line.
When that's all reversed w/ the new master, bleeding is the important (and tricky) part so your clutch works tip-top again.
Nothing gets air out of fresh new fluid like the JMD method.
Is there anything I can do to confirm that is the problem before taking it apart?
