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New clutch install - Zero Pedal pressure

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Old 08-13-2011, 12:24 PM
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Default New clutch install - Zero Pedal pressure

Hey folks,

I hate to be one of the 100 bleeding threads on here, and believe me I've read every one of them trying to get to the bottom of this but to no avail.

I just got done installing a new clutch (monster stage 2, very nice piece by the way) and am in the process of bleeding but have zero pedal.

For all the story: When I had the stock clutch in I put a Tick MC in and it was incredible. Then, after a few weeks, I started losing pressure, it was harder and harder to get into gear despite bleeding. I nursed it into the garage to do the clutch swap by basically putting it in gear and starting and letting it carry me in, heh.

Anyway, I replaced the clutch, brand new slave, remote bleeder, and hooked everything up. Now, I have zero pedal pressure at all. I bled about a 1/2 quart through and got a lot of air bubbles are first, but the last twenty pumps it didn't get any air out (it appears). I kept the reservoir filled with a helper, put the line into a cup of fluid so it didn't suck any air back in, and then after bleeding ten pumps would close the valve, pump the pedal ten times fast, and still nothing. I can't get it into gear at all obviously.

I see no drips under the car that would hint at a leak. I installed the crush washer on the remote bleeder on the correct side and torqued it down pretty well.

Any ideas whatsoever? I would appreciate any advice up to remove the transmission and poke around in there. Heh.

It has occurred to me that the slave has a lot of fluid in it, but I've pumped the pedal just shy of 50 times already and have zero progress. Should I try another method? If I'm not seeing bubbles is that the end all sign that it is not working?

Thanks a lot folks, I really appreciate any help.
Old 08-13-2011, 12:40 PM
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I just installed my monster stage two last night literally.
We pumped about 50 times before cracking the valve, cracked it until it stopped coming out, then repeat the process until the fluid got clearer. We got to a clear greenish drip before we called it quits. But the puddle feels much better. I'd say just keep pumping they said don't be alarmed if it takes 30 minutes to bleed.
Old 08-13-2011, 12:45 PM
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Ya, takes a little while. Getting ready to swap in my monster stg 3. Blackbird, where did you get GM threadlocker with sealant?
Old 08-13-2011, 01:01 PM
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Thanks guys, I'm sure you understand my frustration.

Did you use a speedbleeder? With that, how much should I crack it open? If it opens too far it'll let air in, right? I just want to make sure everything is being done properly. Thanks again for the help.
Old 08-13-2011, 01:06 PM
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We actually just used the red liquid loctite, I don't plan on taking them bolts out for a while. But if you really want id call a gm parts dealership
Old 08-14-2011, 11:24 AM
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i used red myself,no worries. i dipped my speed bleeder influid and just cracked it just to feel no preasure left the end emerced in fluid till i tighted it .this is not directed to you but everybody reads into this **** to far. just be patient and the stuff works out i followed ticks directions and monsters directions and everything worked out fine. plus the guys have excellent customer support!
Old 08-14-2011, 11:58 AM
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I highly recommend trying this http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13133408916003

Back in 2008 I had trouble getting my clutch bled too after an LS7 clutch install. I spent hours trying to get it bled through the bleeder but had it bled in 5 minutes with a mity vac.



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