marc1130

iTrader: (20)

With the Clutch Pedal pressed to the floor and the Clutch disengaged in I'm getting a noise that only occurs while the car is moving and the engine is at 3k+ rpm. This limit will change depending on if it is in 1st, 2nd or 3rd. When the car is in neutral with the pedal pushed in, the noise ceases. If I increase RPMS the noise increases

The noise sounds like something is rubbing inside of the bell housing.

I just changed the throwout bearing last week. I changed the clutch, pressure plate, pilot bushing and flywheel all 1 year ago. I have a Mcleod Clutch. The flywheel side of the clutch disk and flywheel all look good with life left on the plates when I checked last week, I'm not sure about the pressure plate side I think okay. The pilot bushing appears to have no visible wear.

Any ideas on what is making this horrible noise?

marc1130

iTrader: (20)

I think my last clutch may have failed for the same reasons the current one is creating the rubbing vibration noise with the clutch disengaged while in gear.

My old setup was installed in August 2007 and Failed in May 2010. I was running the following:
Original factory flywheel, resurfaced twice
Mcleod 261871 clutch disk
Mcleod 360822 pressure plate
The clutch disk failed in May 2010.

The fylwheel bolts showed excessive wears on the heads after the failure.

Currently I replaced that setup with an advance auto flywheel, advance auto pilot bushing, the mcleod disk and pressure plate. I suspect the advance auto flywheel is not as thick as the factory specs, therefore as the Mcleod clutch wears, the clutch springs will interfere with the flywheel bolts. This will only happen under the following conditions:

while the car is rolling,
only after the engine heats up,
the engine is revved above 3k rpm while the clutch is disengaged and the transmission in gear.

I went ahead and ordered ARP 200-2087 flywheel bolts. Hopefully the head will be shorter in length, the ARP rep said they are 0.200 inches, not sure how much shorter that is compared to the stock flywheel bolt head thickness any ideas?

on1wheel01

I was thinking throw out bearing but u replaced it. Hmmmm

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

The ARP bolts looked to be about the same height as stock when I installed mine, but it's been a while. I am also running a reman. flywheel from Autozone with no issues.

Did you grease the TO bearing and input shaft? How loud is the sound? Is it a scratching sound? Metal on metal? Chattering?

marc1130

iTrader: (20)

Its definitely an interference with flywheel bolts. The stock is aparently 0.25" the arps are 0.20" Mcleod says I need atleast 0.160" So I will prolly have a machine shop take 0.160-0.2 off the flywheel

marc1130

iTrader: (20)

I will be taking the flywheel off and having (6) 1" diameter, 0.100" depth holes counter bored on my advance auto perfection flywheel to fit a 5/8" socket and arp 200-2807 7/16-20" Bolts.

Any one know what the flange tickness is of the flywheel, my goal is to keep it above 0.350"?

Anyone know the thread depth on the back of the crank hub, hopefully I have extra to compensate for 0.100" less material.

Aparently with the Mcleod kevlar clutch p/n 260871 you need atleast 0.650" from the flywheel surface to the to the top of the flywheel bolts, or else the springs will rub.

marc1130

iTrader: (20)

UPDATE: Tore the whole thing down again this week. The flywheel wasn't the issue, I had at least 0.250" between the clutch hub and flywheel bolts. The pilot bushing had gone bad, there were grooves in the bushing causing a nasty vibration. I replaced the part with a lakewood bronze bushing and the noise went away. I will never put an advance auto bushing in again because this one only lasted one year (Avoid Dorman or Clutch-In! part number 14650). Another thing I should note, my 160,000 mile lt1 crankshaft has 0.048" of end play when it should have 0.007". I'm guessing the thrust bearing went bad. I will not be doing anything about it for now.