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TKO 600 or T56, LS1 67 Camaro

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Old 11-03-2011, 11:17 AM
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Default TKO 600 or T56, LS1 67 Camaro

Hello all,

I am sure this has been debated, and I could only find one thread directly related to my question, but not per my application. So here goes...

I am building a 67 Camaro as if it would have come from GM recently (hence the LS1). Car will have a 2 inch drop, engine is stock (for now), not sure about a gear yet (9 inch). I am in between the TKO 600 and the T56. I will drive it a lot, and romp on it occasionally, but not constantly.

When I called a vendor regarding this dilemna, his response was "unless I need it for my ego, the TKO 600 is enough". What I got from that was that both will do the job well, but the ability to say I was running a "6 speed", was the basic difference in the two, as far as my application goes.

I am not completely worried about the money difference, but the TKO will save me about 1,500, once the install is complete, but I will not have the hydraulic throwout bearing. The TKO kit comes with a stock type throwout bearing setup. The plus with the TKO is that I can move that money saved to other parts of the car.

I also read where the T56 is considered stronger, but I will not be driving this to the extreme. I would be interested in hearing some opinions regarding my options.

Thanks in advance,
Jim
Old 11-03-2011, 12:22 PM
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Here are the good and bad about each. I am using a T56 in my 68 for reference.

If not drag racing the TKO will shift fine unless you want to do high RPM shifts frequently. It will handle all that the LS1 can throw at it strength wise. The manual clutch linkage is great except you won't be able to use long tube headers. All the long tubes I know of wont clear the clutch linkage. So if long tubes are not important you will have to run hydraulic on both tranny's.

I personally used the T56 to run a lower gear and still have the .50 over-drive instead of the .64 in the TKO. I definately wanted long tube headers so the hydraulic TO bearing applies to me either way. I have had T56's in a couple different cars and like the way they shift better at higher rpms's especially if they have upgraded internals.


Ease of instillation definately goes to the TKO. T56 is tight and the shifter location is farther back than stock.
Old 11-03-2011, 03:56 PM
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Thanks for the info. Its nice to have some been there-done that info. I am leaning towards the T56. I figure if I am going to have to buy the Hyd clutch package for the TKO600 I may as well upgrade to the T56.

Thanks,
Jim
Old 11-03-2011, 04:29 PM
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T56>TKO600

TKO600 - fits better in the car and will bolt up to a generic style GM passenger car bellhousing.

T56 - stronger, double overdrive and shifts better

It really comes down to those things....... I've done conversion with both units over the years.
Old 11-04-2011, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by thesource
T56>TKO600

TKO600 - fits better in the car and will bolt up to a generic style GM passenger car bellhousing.

T56 - stronger, double overdrive and shifts better

It really comes down to those things....... I've done conversion with both units over the years.
Yeh, I hear you. I think I have my direction now. TKO600 would be nice for a driver, but knowing me it's gonna be a bigger cam next, then some heads, then who knows what?? I am going to look to the future and just go with a T56. Should not be too difficult since the car is stripped for the build.

Now which T56 is better for me???

Thanks for the info guys.
Old 11-04-2011, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by gearhead36
Yeh, I hear you. I think I have my direction now. TKO600 would be nice for a driver, but knowing me it's gonna be a bigger cam next, then some heads, then who knows what?? I am going to look to the future and just go with a T56. Should not be too difficult since the car is stripped for the build.

Now which T56 is better for me???

Thanks for the info guys.
Since you don't have a core and starting from scratch, I would do a T56 Magnum. As long as your clutch is adjusted correctly and you are not hammering it on the shifts too hard, it should last you a long time.
Old 11-05-2011, 06:41 AM
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Now it is down to the .66 or the .50 setup. My research leads me to believe that rule of thumb is that if running a 4:11 or lower the .50 is the setup, looks like 3:73 or higher the .66 setup is preferred. Anywhere I can get some more info on this?


One more question for some of you in the know. With the T56 scattershield, do I have the option of installing either manual or hydraulic linkage, or is there a specific bell for each setup? I am considering manual linkage for cost savings and dependability. I plan to use the stock vette manifolds that are on the engine (with slight modification).
Opinions?

Thx

Last edited by gearhead36; 11-05-2011 at 07:02 AM.
Old 11-05-2011, 09:03 AM
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Quicktime offers a bellhousing with a pivot ball option for a mechanical clutch.
Old 11-05-2011, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by thesource
Since you don't have a core and starting from scratch, I would do a T56 Magnum. As long as your clutch is adjusted correctly and you are not hammering it on the shifts too hard, it should last you a long time.
Does the magnum have shifting issues?

Andrew
Old 11-06-2011, 01:17 PM
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the TKO 600 I have seems to work well, it shifts just fine a 7200 with my LY6, and I use a mechanical clutch linkage with long tubes. I did have to modify #5 header tube.
If you are going drag racing all the time then you wont like any trans that has syncros, you'll need a faceplated trans.
PS my TKO is for sale, as I am going to a faceplated trans
Old 11-06-2011, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Does the magnum have shifting issues?

Andrew
It does have smaller engagement teeth on the gears and sliders so its less forgiving when your clutch isn't working properly, you are using it properly or you miss a gear. If everything is working good and you make clean shifts, you should be ok. If I were Tremec I would have just started from scratch on the Magnum instead of trying to repackage it in a T56 main case. They could have stretched the case 2" to allow for better syncro assemblies and just shortend the tail housing by that 2" to keep the entire trans the same length.



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