Finished swap, clutch won't disengage
02-07-2012, 01:55 AM
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Finished swap, clutch won't disengage Hello guys. I've been researching for the past couple of days to figure out how to proceed, so I would like some advice on what to do first.
My tranny is VERY hard to shift into gear. It will actually shift and drive if I force the shifter, but I stopped due to worry of breaking the tranny. It appears that the issue lies with the fact that even with the clutch pressed all the way down, it still does not fully disengage the clutch (the car starts moving forward with the pedal to the floor when put in gear, and it won't shift into reverse no matter how hard I try). With the ignition off, it shifts perfectly into all gears.
I just finished swapping my 1998 Trans Am from A4 to M6 (T56). I followed the most popular guide to the letter. Everything appeared to go well. I took the used flywheel that came with the tranny to my local transmission shop, the mechanic told me it was in pretty good condition and did not recommend resurfacing it, he told me to just sand it down a bit. I installed a new slave cylinder and a new clutch (Spec, stage 2) to prevent having to take down the tranny again soon. I also shimmed my slave cylinder with the provided spec shim after taking proper measurements. The hydraulic system was also bled several times, using both the spark plug boot method and the Might Vac method.
At this point, I think I have a bad master cylinder (which is an OEM), but don't want to blow money on a new one unless I absolutely have to, the whole swap already depleted most of my funds
.
Any advice on the matter from my fellow f-body enthusiasts is greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading.
My tranny is VERY hard to shift into gear. It will actually shift and drive if I force the shifter, but I stopped due to worry of breaking the tranny. It appears that the issue lies with the fact that even with the clutch pressed all the way down, it still does not fully disengage the clutch (the car starts moving forward with the pedal to the floor when put in gear, and it won't shift into reverse no matter how hard I try). With the ignition off, it shifts perfectly into all gears.
I just finished swapping my 1998 Trans Am from A4 to M6 (T56). I followed the most popular guide to the letter. Everything appeared to go well. I took the used flywheel that came with the tranny to my local transmission shop, the mechanic told me it was in pretty good condition and did not recommend resurfacing it, he told me to just sand it down a bit. I installed a new slave cylinder and a new clutch (Spec, stage 2) to prevent having to take down the tranny again soon. I also shimmed my slave cylinder with the provided spec shim after taking proper measurements. The hydraulic system was also bled several times, using both the spark plug boot method and the Might Vac method.
At this point, I think I have a bad master cylinder (which is an OEM), but don't want to blow money on a new one unless I absolutely have to, the whole swap already depleted most of my funds
.Any advice on the matter from my fellow f-body enthusiasts is greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading.
02-07-2012, 01:59 AM
#2
these hydraulics are a major pain to get the air out of, but if it is in fact a master cylinder issue you can get them for under $50 online if you can wait a few days for shipping
also double check your master cylinder isn't mounted too low causing a lack of travel
also double check your master cylinder isn't mounted too low causing a lack of travel
02-07-2012, 02:04 AM
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How do I check if its mounted too low? Isn't there just one spot you can mount it due to the pedals having the two holes that the u-bolt goes through?
02-07-2012, 07:19 AM
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i'm not being bias,but do what i did and go with tick master, speed bleed line, and don't look back. your clutch woes will be a thing of the past. from what i hear the stock stuff is crap
02-07-2012, 07:26 AM
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The correct measurements must be taken before mounting the trans to the bellhousing to ensure the slave will disengage the pressure plate entirely. Maybe the Tick adjustable will eliminate this, but the stocker may need additional shimming. check with others that have installed the same clutch/flywheel combo. See the pic I attached for the correct way to measure the gap for shimming.
Last edited by 2001TransAm; 02-07-2012 at 07:33 AM.
02-07-2012, 12:49 PM
#6
It sounds to me like he checked the measurements and is still having this issue. That being said, if he is confident of the measurements and the install then it could easily be an issue with the Master or air in the system. Did you do a complete flush and refill of the hydraulic fluid?
02-07-2012, 08:00 PM
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Yes I did take the correct measurements. I also flushed and bled the system pretty well for a few hours in various methods. After much research I have went ahead and bit the bullet. I ordered a tick master cylinder. Haven't seen one bad review and I suspect my master cylinder is not doing its job properly (its not new). When it arrives tomorrow gonna install it and let you guys know what happens. Thanks for the advice.
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02-08-2012, 05:29 PM
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Yes I did take the correct measurements. I also flushed and bled the system pretty well for a few hours in various methods. After much research I have went ahead and bit the bullet. I ordered a tick master cylinder. Haven't seen one bad review and I suspect my master cylinder is not doing its job properly (its not new). When it arrives tomorrow gonna install it and let you guys know what happens. Thanks for the advice.
imho this is a no brainer, anyone having to replace a clutch master should just order one of these.
02-14-2012, 06:04 PM
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And as stated by others, it fixed it!
Car works perfectly now! Although that pedal is hard to press now =\
Oh well, thanks for the advice guys.
Time to go do some burnouts!
Just kidding, gotta baby the clutch for 500 miles first
Car works perfectly now! Although that pedal is hard to press now =\
Oh well, thanks for the advice guys.
Time to go do some burnouts!
Just kidding, gotta baby the clutch for 500 miles first
