Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

T-56 Transmission Mount Swap: A How-To

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-12-2012, 01:53 AM
  #1  
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
BirdsSince16's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 535
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default T-56 Transmission Mount Swap: A How-To

While I know this is a really simple procedure that a lot of people can do with their eyes closed (possibly why I didn't find any writeups on this when I did a search), I feel some people might still want something to look at to see just what they are getting into before they jump under the car. This is my first writeup as well, so it might not be perfect.

Tools Required:
Jack and Jackstands
3/8" drive ratchet
13mm and 15mm sockets
18mm deep well socket
Various extensions

As always, secure the car on jackstands at whatever height you feel you need to work. Then, from the front, place a jack under the transmission just so it's supporting the weight of the trans.



Now once you're under there, the crossmember is pretty easy to identify. It will have two bolts (15mm) securing it on each side, and one large nut (18mm) securing it to the trans mount stud.





There may also be an exhaust hanger attached to the rear of the crossmember. My Y is supported by a ghetto-rigged hanger because the other one didn't line up quite right after my header install. This is easily removed.

MAKE SURE THE TRANSMISSION IS SUPPORTED BY A JACK!!!!!!!!

Loosen the 18mm nut in the middle to where it could be easily removed with your fingers, then remove the 15mm bolts on the sides. Now, hold up the crossmember and remove the 18mm nut from the middle. The crossmember is deceptively heavier than it looks, so be ready.

Now you should see where the mount connects to the transmission.





It is held on by only two 13mm bolts. Simply remove these bolts and the mount, noting is orientation (though it will only go back on one way).

As far as re-installation goes, simply clean the surfaces and install the mount with the 13mm bolts. Then place the crossmember back up, making sure to align the stud with the whole in the middle. Start the 18mm nut, then fasten the 15mm bolts on the sides, then tighten the nut in the center. Re-install the exhaust hanger if it was removed Lower the jack from under the transmission and set the car down on its wheels.

Comparison between the new and old trans mounts...

Old 02-12-2012, 08:41 PM
  #2  
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
 
StryfeS13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Good info for those who dont know how to do this.

Your under carriage is dirty though haha
Old 02-12-2012, 09:00 PM
  #3  
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
BirdsSince16's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 535
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Thanks!

And yeah, I'm leaking a little oil at the pan which I plan to fix when I put the cam in. Better than burning it though. But on the bright side, there's no rust down there except on the headers.
Old 02-16-2012, 03:19 PM
  #4  
Teching In
 
Mischief007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Looks like the underside of mine as well . Nice write up. I replaced mine when I had my transmission rebuilt. Fairly easy to do. I replaced mine with a poly one.
Old 03-09-2012, 11:15 AM
  #5  
Teching In
 
2000 Firebird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks for posting this thread. Ive been having alot of problems with my trans mount and didn't really know how to do it. I had it done the first time because I just assumed you would have to drop the whole trans to install it, and just didn't want to take the time to do it myself. But about 6 months after I had it done it went bad again and i took it back to get a warrenty but still had to pay the 40 bucks for a warrenty. and now 4 months and 5k miles later that one is bad too. I don't drive that hard either, so I was wondering what could be making it go bad. No one seems to know what could cause it. I was going to replace it with a Energy Suspension poly mount but when I called a shop to order it they said they don't make one that fits my car. I have a 2000 Pontiac Firebird V6 3.6L engine. Not sure which trans it is, but it is a manual. After I started researching different mounts I came across this one http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...49916_0_16128_ and I think it is the one they put on my car, and it looks cheap, because it says it is an OEM hydraulic mount. But then I saw this one http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...66208_0_16129_ and it says it is a solid option. I think that would hold up alot better than the cheaper one. But I really want to get this one http://www.maximumautoparts.com/perf...&go.y=12&go=Go but I don't know if it will fit, it says it will fit but the shop I called said it wouldn't, and I looked in energy suspensions pdf and it doesn't list a model number for my car. Do any of you guys know which one would fit and which one would be the best option? Im getting really sick of going over bad bumps and grimacing every time my trans slams into bottom of the car.



Quick Reply: T-56 Transmission Mount Swap: A How-To



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:33 PM.