Tick Master, New Slave, Remote Bleed, New Clutch still not holding
02-18-2012, 12:10 AM
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Tick Master, New Slave, Remote Bleed, New Clutch still not holding Alright I do not have some crazy High Horse Power car, hell if I am lucky its 450 at the wheels or so. I have replaced every god damn piece of this clutch system, went through 3 OEM Master's and now just installed a Tick Master tonight, it has a new Light Weight Flywheel, Spec 3 Clutch, New Pilot and Throwout Bearings, New Slave Cylinder, Remote Bleeder with the speed bleed setup, its been completely flushed I just installed the Tick tonight.
No matter what I do it seems to have gotten better in terms of clutch feel but I can not make it through a single gear, it just lets go of the clutch and the pedal gets really hard. Its not as bad as the OEM one was but its bad none the less.
I have bleed the system completely, no air period all new clean fluid. I have tried everything I can think of and yet I keep coming back to this issue.
I am completely lost guys... I really am just thinking about selling the car and walking away. I have done so much rebuilding the engine, suspension everything and I can not even enjoy the damn car.
I am looking for any further idea's because at this point I am just flat out lost.
No matter what I do it seems to have gotten better in terms of clutch feel but I can not make it through a single gear, it just lets go of the clutch and the pedal gets really hard. Its not as bad as the OEM one was but its bad none the less.
I have bleed the system completely, no air period all new clean fluid. I have tried everything I can think of and yet I keep coming back to this issue.
I am completely lost guys... I really am just thinking about selling the car and walking away. I have done so much rebuilding the engine, suspension everything and I can not even enjoy the damn car.
I am looking for any further idea's because at this point I am just flat out lost.
02-18-2012, 10:02 AM
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No idea where they are braided lines and all new where could it be coming from and wouldn't it show up when bleeding the system? Every time I bleed it the fluid is solid no air at all.
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02-18-2012, 11:09 AM
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Yeah... not an easy job and a waste of money considering its new. Would really like to avoid that as it does not really give a reason for the issue I am having.
02-20-2012, 03:10 PM
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let's go of the gear.. as in you're in gear then all of a sudden your in neutral... that sounds like an internal trans issue. If you mean the clutch just completely starts spinning and you're still in gear but just gain RPM's, then it's slipping.. did you check your rear main seal while you had the trans out? that's a good time to replace that, and if it is leaking, the oil coming out there will ruin a clutch in no time.
02-25-2012, 10:58 AM
#14
Your description is a little odd, however, I'd be calling Spec and speaking to Jeremy. More than likely there is something you're missing and he'll get you squared away.
I know that I'd want the same thing from one of my customers, if you're having issues with a clutch you should always call the manufacturer first, then post if you can't get it figured out. This saves you and the guys at said manufacturer a lot of time.
In your case I'd look for leaks. If you do not see any leaks readjust the master cylinder after another solid bleed. Use a mighty vac or similar tool to make damn sure all the air is out of the system. Once you've done this there should be no reason the clutch doesn't disengage unless it needed a shim and you didn't measure/install one.
Check this, call Spec on Monday.
I know that I'd want the same thing from one of my customers, if you're having issues with a clutch you should always call the manufacturer first, then post if you can't get it figured out. This saves you and the guys at said manufacturer a lot of time.
In your case I'd look for leaks. If you do not see any leaks readjust the master cylinder after another solid bleed. Use a mighty vac or similar tool to make damn sure all the air is out of the system. Once you've done this there should be no reason the clutch doesn't disengage unless it needed a shim and you didn't measure/install one.
Check this, call Spec on Monday.
03-02-2012, 09:18 AM
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Just rebuilt the motor all seals were replaced when we did that, thats when I did the clutch job as well. I got a Spec Stage 3 to replace it and its completely clear now that this supposed Spec I got was a fake. Oh well **** happens online.
The trans is not the issue its def. the clutch slipping it just should not have been but now that I know its a fake it makes sense. It was probably a defective pressure plate as most felt and it just could not hold like many others have pointed out issues with on C5's.
Atleast that is what I am telling myself because my new Spec Stage 3 looks completely different. Hopefully after this break in period upon install I can get back to enjoying my car.
The trans is not the issue its def. the clutch slipping it just should not have been but now that I know its a fake it makes sense. It was probably a defective pressure plate as most felt and it just could not hold like many others have pointed out issues with on C5's.
Atleast that is what I am telling myself because my new Spec Stage 3 looks completely different. Hopefully after this break in period upon install I can get back to enjoying my car.
03-02-2012, 10:12 AM
#16
You might want to replace/resurface the flywheel as well. That slipping didn't do it one bit of good. No way I would replace the clutch and not the flywheel.
Next, SNL said something that may have been easy to overlook. Measure!!! I don't care if they say you don't need a shim or not. Every car is different. Nobody knows the history behind your particular vehicle. MEASURE for a shim!!! It's not that hard and you will definitively know.
I would like to hear more about how someone sold you a fake clutch. Who? Where? etc. People like that need to be made public.
Next, SNL said something that may have been easy to overlook. Measure!!! I don't care if they say you don't need a shim or not. Every car is different. Nobody knows the history behind your particular vehicle. MEASURE for a shim!!! It's not that hard and you will definitively know.
I would like to hear more about how someone sold you a fake clutch. Who? Where? etc. People like that need to be made public.
03-02-2012, 04:43 PM
#17
You might want to replace/resurface the flywheel as well. That slipping didn't do it one bit of good. No way I would replace the clutch and not the flywheel.
Next, SNL said something that may have been easy to overlook. Measure!!! I don't care if they say you don't need a shim or not. Every car is different. Nobody knows the history behind your particular vehicle. MEASURE for a shim!!! It's not that hard and you will definitively know.
I would like to hear more about how someone sold you a fake clutch. Who? Where? etc. People like that need to be made public.
Next, SNL said something that may have been easy to overlook. Measure!!! I don't care if they say you don't need a shim or not. Every car is different. Nobody knows the history behind your particular vehicle. MEASURE for a shim!!! It's not that hard and you will definitively know.
I would like to hear more about how someone sold you a fake clutch. Who? Where? etc. People like that need to be made public.
To the O.P., measure and get with the original manufacturer and go from there.
03-05-2012, 08:23 AM
#19
You have to ask each manufacturer, throwing shims at something based off of a thread on a forum isn't always the solution. Our clutches for example, they will measure out that they "need" a shim, problem is the lift and release of our units are completely different than other clutches. This is what determines the release of the clutch, not just measuring. When I say we don't need a shim it's because we don't.
To the O.P., measure and get with the original manufacturer and go from there.
To the O.P., measure and get with the original manufacturer and go from there.
