VandykeT/A

Ive got a tick level 2 with around 15k on it. I'm considering spraying the car with a 150-200 shot but I'm curious if I'm guaranteed to break something. I'm making 571/522 on motor and plan on a progressive so it won't be hit that hard out of the gate but I'm concerned with the shifts after. What's the odds it will live? I figure I'll be in the 700-725 range

weedburner

You will probably need more clutch capacity for sure, I doubt the level 2 is good for much more than 600 ft/lbs at most.

Nitrous generally adds a fixed amount of horsepower, which means the torque that's added by the nitrous will vary with rpm. Here's roughly how much torque 100 & 200 hp shots add at different rpm's...
@ 3k rpm, 100hp = 175 ft/lbs, 200hp = 350 ft/lbs
@ 4k rpm, 100hp = 131 ft/lbs, 200hp = 262 ft/lbs
@ 5k rpm, 100hp = 105 ft/lbs, 200hp = 210 ft/lbs
@ 6k rpm, 100hp = 88 ft/lbs, 200hp = 176 ft/lbs
@ 7k rpm, 100hp = 75 ft/lbs, 200hp = 150 ft/lbs
@ 8k rpm, 100hp = 66 ft/lbs, 200hp = 132 ft/lbs
@ 9k rpm, 100hp = 58 ft/lbs, 200hp = 116 ft/lbs
@ 10k rpm, 100hp = 53 ft/lbs, 200hp = 106 ft/lbs

weedburner

I see your in the 10sec club, so i'm thinking your level 2 clutch is probably a pretty good match to your current power level without nitrous. One thing to be aware of is when you add more clutch capacity to handle the nitrous, NA launches will likely become more difficult. An adjustable clutch buffer can fix that, but without one you will probably lose some NA 60' due to added bogging or spinning from harsher clutch engagement.

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

If you run a bias ply slick that is a lot softer on driveline parts than say a M/T ET Street Drag Radial......

VandykeT/A

Ill be on a 28" ET drag. I've been running a 27" QTP but running out of gear. The clutch is 11" Monster ceramic so I should be good there.

Tuskyz28

You go need a GREAT driveshaft especially if you go be on a stiff wall slick...

VandykeT/A

I've got a 3.5" aluminum PST