Slave Fittings and Lines
05-31-2012, 09:45 PM
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Slave Fittings and Lines Alright, so here's the skinny..
I purchased a Tick Performance adjustable master cylinder awhile back. I am having trouble connecting the supplied male quick disconnect fitting to the factory female quick disconnect fitting. Something on the Tick fitting is not quite right, because it will not slide all the way into the factory quick disconnect, and so the retainer clip cannot slide into position to hold the fittings together. I'm tired of trying to make this stuff work, so Ive decided to replace everything.
So, from the Tick Master cylinder I have their supplied -4AN line running down to the transmission. Now, I need to get that plumbed into the slave cylinder. McLeod makes a direct replacement -4AN fitting but the damn thing is about $50. Id still need a short -4AN line out of the bellhousing and a -4AN union to connect the two lines.
Russell makes a -3AN fitting for about a third of the cost. Then I could run -3AN line out of the bellhousing, and connect the two lines with a reducer. The guy I talked to at Tick advised that I do not go this route, but he didn't have any advice to offer either. I believe -3AN is larger than the factory lines anyway. (I will measure that tomorrow) Plus, I think Ive seen a couple guys in the hybrid section running -3AN lines without any trouble.
I think it'll work fine, but want to see if anyone is doing something similar before I pull the trigger on this batch of lines and fittings.
Thanks
I purchased a Tick Performance adjustable master cylinder awhile back. I am having trouble connecting the supplied male quick disconnect fitting to the factory female quick disconnect fitting. Something on the Tick fitting is not quite right, because it will not slide all the way into the factory quick disconnect, and so the retainer clip cannot slide into position to hold the fittings together. I'm tired of trying to make this stuff work, so Ive decided to replace everything.
So, from the Tick Master cylinder I have their supplied -4AN line running down to the transmission. Now, I need to get that plumbed into the slave cylinder. McLeod makes a direct replacement -4AN fitting but the damn thing is about $50. Id still need a short -4AN line out of the bellhousing and a -4AN union to connect the two lines.
Russell makes a -3AN fitting for about a third of the cost. Then I could run -3AN line out of the bellhousing, and connect the two lines with a reducer. The guy I talked to at Tick advised that I do not go this route, but he didn't have any advice to offer either. I believe -3AN is larger than the factory lines anyway. (I will measure that tomorrow) Plus, I think Ive seen a couple guys in the hybrid section running -3AN lines without any trouble.
I think it'll work fine, but want to see if anyone is doing something similar before I pull the trigger on this batch of lines and fittings.
Thanks
06-01-2012, 11:39 AM
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Good thinking.. But the engine is actually out of the car right now, and I've tried putting the lines together on the work bench with a vise, lol. It's not a line pressure issue, I wish!
06-01-2012, 01:16 PM
#4
Does the female have the internal ring with spring catches around it? Or the externally accessible cir-clip?
If all clips are removed, do they go together?
You're on the right track w/ AN parts. I just like the idea of a single clip, rather than two wrenches to do a step of an R&R.
If all clips are removed, do they go together?
You're on the right track w/ AN parts. I just like the idea of a single clip, rather than two wrenches to do a step of an R&R.
06-01-2012, 06:37 PM
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External clip on the female fitting. Even when completely removed, the fittings still won't go together. Male fitting needs about another 1/16" travel before the clip could lock. Quick disconnects are nice but this has ruined me on them. I'm scared it would leave me stranded somewhere now. Plus, only has to be taken apart for transmissions pulls. Not a big deal.
