Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

Light Clutch Options

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-09-2012, 01:45 PM
  #1  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
Turnin20s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Light Clutch Options

I decided to pull my trans this winter and send it out to get refreshed. Since the trans will be "new" I want to get rid of my Spec Stage 3 and stock flywheel and get something lighter. The stock bellhousing will also get replaced.

I have been thinking about a 5.5" or 7.5" Tilton, but I don't know what my options are since it doesn't seem to be a popular option. What are some other options for a really light setup. I don't care if its not really friendly, I don't DD my car and my car is going to be around 3100 with me in it by spring time.


Now on another note I'm planning on doing an LS swap in a couple years and I know that I can swap the input shaft and front cover and use an LS style clutch setup on my LT1. Would it be worth while do just do the LS clutch setup now since I will be buying a different bellhousing and everything else?

Any info is appreciated

Last edited by Turnin20s; 12-10-2012 at 12:28 AM.
Old 12-09-2012, 06:32 PM
  #2  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
 
02SOMWS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wallkill ,NY
Posts: 2,638
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Turnin20s
I decided to pull my trans this winter and send it out to get refreshed. Since the trans will be "new" I want to get rid of my Spec Stage 3 and stock flywheel and get something lighter. The stock bellhousing will also get replaced.

I have been thinking about a 5.5" Tilton, but I don't know what my options are since it doesn't seem to be a popular option. What are some other options for a really light setup. I don't care if its not really friendly, I don't DD my car and my car is going to be around 3100 with me in it by spring time.


Now on another note I'm planning on doing an LS swap in a couple years and I know that I can swap the input shaft and front cover and use an LS style clutch setup on my LT1. Would it be worth while do just do the LS clutch setup now since I will be buying a different bellhousing and everything else?

Any info is appreciated
Check out blahblahblah.com ....I know there not a sponsor but neither is tilton that he mentioned. What you want is a slipper clutch

Last edited by MeentSS02; 12-22-2012 at 03:34 PM.
Old 12-09-2012, 11:53 PM
  #3  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
Turnin20s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 02SOMWS6
Check out blahblahblah.com ....I know there not a sponsor but neither is tilton that he mentioned. What you want is a slipper clutch
Why do I want a slipper clutch?? I'm not building a drag car, my car is more along the lines of an autox/street car but I want a light clutch setup.

My original idea was to get a Mcleod Street twin for an LS motor and swap it into my car, but those are heavy as hell.

Last edited by MeentSS02; 12-22-2012 at 03:35 PM.
Old 12-10-2012, 12:11 AM
  #4  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (17)
 
RAMPANT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,752
Received 26 Likes on 12 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Turnin20s
Why do I want a slipper clutch?? I'm not building a drag car, my car is more along the lines of an autox/street car but I want a light clutch setup.

My original idea was to get a Mcleod Street twin for an LS motor and swap it into my car, but those are heavy as hell.
I have the street twin and just bought the aluminum flywheel for it, it was 13 pounds lighter than the steel, which had been machined twice. I have had several issues with it, hopefully this time it works better.

Not sure on the other options.

My car is built for similar duty as yours, though I do a few passes a year as well.


Old 12-10-2012, 12:41 AM
  #5  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
Turnin20s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

We usually do a couple trips to the track every year too. My car hasn't made it yet since either my winter mods aren't done or I have to work haha. Hopefully next summer is a different story

I'll look into the aluminum flywheel for the street twin, but I would still like a lighter option than that.
Old 12-11-2012, 01:37 PM
  #6  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
Turnin20s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Anyone on here running a 5.5 or 7.25" twin or triple disk clutch?

I'm honestly thinking about just ordering one and seeing how they feel. Right now I have a stock flywheel and a Spec Stage 3. So I'd basically be going from one of the heavier options to one of the lighter options. Then I can see if I can tolerate it or move on to something in the middle.

So what has to be done to get one of these 5.5" Tilton clutches to work. Can I make it happen with y trans setup for an LT1 or would I be better off switching to an LS input and front cover? What do I use for a slave?
Old 12-11-2012, 01:52 PM
  #7  
FormerVendor
iTrader: (2)
 
SPEC-01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,507
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

You don't want a slipper clutch...but I understand the desire for something lighter. We offer a 7.25" mini-twin that is rated to 800lb.ft at the crank and it really isn't too bad to drive either. Keep in mind that lower inertia setups require more RPM when leaving from a stopped position though. Our kits are fully rebuildable too. I have provided a link below (for the LS based mini-twin). Take a look and let me know if youn have any further questions. Thanks!!

http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Chevy...2000/Mini_Twin
Old 12-11-2012, 07:51 PM
  #8  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
Turnin20s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by SPEC-01
You don't want a slipper clutch...but I understand the desire for something lighter. We offer a 7.25" mini-twin that is rated to 800lb.ft at the crank and it really isn't too bad to drive either. Keep in mind that lower inertia setups require more RPM when leaving from a stopped position though. Our kits are fully rebuildable too. I have provided a link below (for the LS based mini-twin). Take a look and let me know if youn have any further questions. Thanks!!

http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Chevy...2000/Mini_Twin
I know that the lighter options require more rpm to get the car moving. I'm not too worried about it though. Thanks for the link, I'll keep that in mind
Old 12-12-2012, 08:54 AM
  #9  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
 
Orange Juice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hamilton Ontario
Posts: 1,214
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

The RXT is a much lighter feel then the McCleod street twin. An Ls7 clutch is great but I don't know how much power it has to hold.
Old 12-12-2012, 09:25 AM
  #10  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
 
HioSSilver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Winchester, VA
Posts: 5,927
Received 412 Likes on 330 Posts

Default

I run a 5.5 tilton......it's a badass! Only cost me $400 bucks to make new again to. I did the custom install myself. It takes a little effort but it's worth it. A buddy has a spec 7.25 and my tilton is much smoother. It also takes a little tuning. Where you at op?

I dd this clutch.
Old 12-12-2012, 09:32 AM
  #11  
TECH Resident
iTrader: (8)
 
metalmilitia606's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Dayton Ohio
Posts: 861
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

I was going to say LS7 also. It's not built for tons of power, but it drives like a stock clutch.
Old 12-12-2012, 12:28 PM
  #12  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (17)
 
RAMPANT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,752
Received 26 Likes on 12 Posts

Default

Sorry a little off topic.

HioSSilver, I have to ask, what the hell does your car weigh to go 131 in the trap with only 417rwhp? Nice job. You must have been getting hard launches too. Hell I only went 129 with 510rwhp@3800lbs.

There is a local guy with strip out Firehawk that has gone 11.0@126mph with 410rwhp and I think his is down too about 2800lb car weight. Not sure on his race weight. Likely around 2950, possibly less.

If you have yours that light, it might make a grabby clutch easier to drive. I do not think I would try the Tilton on my set up, but your results are intriguing.

Sorry OP.
Old 12-12-2012, 01:02 PM
  #13  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
 
HioSSilver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Winchester, VA
Posts: 5,927
Received 412 Likes on 330 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by RAMPANT
Sorry a little off topic.

HioSSilver, I have to ask, what the hell does your car weigh to go 131 in the trap with only 417rwhp? Nice job. You must have been getting hard launches too. Hell I only went 129 with 510rwhp@3800lbs.

There is a local guy with strip out Firehawk that has gone 11.0@126mph with 410rwhp and I think his is down too about 2800lb car weight. Not sure on his race weight. Likely around 2950, possibly less.

If you have yours that light, it might make a grabby clutch easier to drive. I do not think I would try the Tilton on my set up, but your results are intriguing.

Sorry OP.
Thanks. My car weighs a touch less than 3000lb (about 3140 w/me) with my drag wheels and front bar off. With that said no it's not gutted, it still has sounddeadeing, ac, cruise, full exhaust, radio and speakers, seats/belts all there.......it's alot of work to get to that weight and still have a complete car. I have concentrated on removing as much rotating weight as I can. The 417whp is a little deceiving because it would actually make about 431whp on a dynojet.....it is a full bolt-on highly tuned ls6 so it has a real nice broad power. My launches suck to the tune of 1.7's, that about all I can get out of the 10 bolt before it spits a axle out.

i will tell you this.....op is on the right track if he wants his car to accelerate. Rotating weight makes much more difference than dead weight does.

If you look at what your car makes power wise and runs time wise you can see the correlation between our cars and the different ways to get to similar #'s.
Old 12-12-2012, 01:43 PM
  #14  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
Turnin20s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

No problem on the off topic, I like getting a little more info anywhere I can

My car is going to be GUTTED haha, no sound deadening, no cruise or AC, no rear seats, yadda yadda yadda. I'm shooting for under 2900 with sway bars and 17x11s.

I was considering going with a heavier clutch setup like 22.5#s or so, but I really want to do a button style setup and see how it is.

HioSSilver-what has to be done to fit the 5.5" Tilton? I was considering going to a LS1 style trans, but I just got a new driveshaft and don't feel like messing around with a bunch of extra stuff. And do you have any vids of how your car drives with the button clutch?

Can I use my slave and fork setup and get a different bearing to run the button clutch? What flexplate should I get? As light as possible thats SFI approved or stock?
Old 12-14-2012, 02:00 AM
  #15  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
Turnin20s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I emailed TDP and their clutch options are the same weight as stock. I really want to try a lightweight setup so I'm just going to start gathering parts and do it. I'll probably get a 5.5" twin with organic disks. I need to figure out flexplate & hydraulic options. Can I use the stock hydraulics and fork with a different throwout bearing?

I have been searching and searching, but I don't really come up with anything and when I do it's usually old *** threads
Old 12-14-2012, 07:17 AM
  #16  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
 
HioSSilver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Winchester, VA
Posts: 5,927
Received 412 Likes on 330 Posts

Default

I bought another bell housing and cut the bottom out to set mine up. I used a qtr master hydraulic release bearing.
Old 12-14-2012, 08:26 AM
  #17  
FormerVendor
iTrader: (2)
 
SPEC-01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,507
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Turnin, if you wanted to maintain use of a single-disc you could opt for one of our Aluminum Pressure-Plate Stage 4 setups with a 3 or 4-puck disc and an aluminum flywheel. This offers a significant savings over the stock setup and the plate and flywheel would be rebuildable for future use. I don't think you will find a lighter single-disc option anywhere.
Old 12-14-2012, 11:36 AM
  #18  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
Turnin20s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by HioSSilver
I bought another bell housing and cut the bottom
out to set mine up. I used a qtr master hydraulic release bearing.
Thanks, I'm planning on getting a scatter proof bell housing so I'll probably just
cut up the stock bell to get everything setup.


Turnin, if you wanted to maintain use of a single-disc you could opt for
one of our Aluminum Pressure-Plate Stage 4 setups with a 3 or 4-puck disc and
an aluminum flywheel. This offers a significant savings over the stock setup and
the plate and flywheel would be rebuildable for future use. I don't think you will
find a lighter single-disc option anywhere.
Thanks for the offer, but I have been wanting to try one of these 5.5" twin or
triple clutches for some time now. I have your Stage 3 clutch and like it, but
I just want to try something different. My car is getting lighter and I'm
starting to get into autox & road racing so it seems like a decent option going
to a really light setup.
Old 12-14-2012, 11:43 AM
  #19  
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
 
HioSSilver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Winchester, VA
Posts: 5,927
Received 412 Likes on 330 Posts

Default

You really don't need a scatter shield when the clutch is that light. It's not like there are big chunks of cast iron in there anymore to bust out.
Old 12-14-2012, 12:43 PM
  #20  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
Turnin20s's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by HioSSilver
You really don't need a scatter shield when the clutch is that light. It's not like there are big chunks of cast iron in there anymore to bust out.
Than makes sense. Keeping the stock bell is quite a bit lighter too


Quick Reply: Light Clutch Options



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:32 AM.