Flywheel choice help!
02-09-2013, 06:50 PM
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Flywheel choice help! Hey I have a 2001 ss camaro 6 speed. buying a new monster clutch kit. Trying to decide between the 28lb billet steel flywheel or 18lb sfi certified light weight flywheel. What are the benefits of the lighter. I have around 425rwhp probably not gonna go over 500rwhp. Thanks
02-12-2013, 06:01 PM
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[QUOTE=My01chevy;17134297]Hey I have a 2001 ss camaro 6 speed. buying a new monster clutch kit. Trying to decide between the 28lb billet steel flywheel or 18lb sfi certified light weight flywheel. What are the benefits of the lighter. I have around 425rwhp probably not gonna go over 500rwhp. Thanks[/
QUOTE]
I just bought the kit with a 28ib fly wheel still on break in cycle car drives smooth . But **** it was a havey box I got it shipped over see's costed me 700 dollars just for shipping . But u should consider the previous fly wheel wight cause ur car is probably tuned. And try to get the fly wheel wich is closer to the wight u had . Ill update u on how it feels agter break in.
QUOTE]
I just bought the kit with a 28ib fly wheel still on break in cycle car drives smooth . But **** it was a havey box I got it shipped over see's costed me 700 dollars just for shipping . But u should consider the previous fly wheel wight cause ur car is probably tuned. And try to get the fly wheel wich is closer to the wight u had . Ill update u on how it feels agter break in.
02-13-2013, 06:04 AM
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threads like these pop up every now and then and there is ALOT of arguments
i've seen people say they are looking for something in between the 18 and 28 flywheel to make a balance .. 23-24lbs but the end is always what fits more in your head.. the less weight the flywheel has, the easier or quicker rpm rises but you'll suffer losses, while the higher the weight sure less rise in rpm but makes every hp/tq count. my logic might not be perfect or correct but i believe it's somewhat like this.
i've seen people say they are looking for something in between the 18 and 28 flywheel to make a balance .. 23-24lbs but the end is always what fits more in your head.. the less weight the flywheel has, the easier or quicker rpm rises but you'll suffer losses, while the higher the weight sure less rise in rpm but makes every hp/tq count. my logic might not be perfect or correct but i believe it's somewhat like this.
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02-13-2013, 08:56 AM
#8
I disagree.
I have the 18# and it drives better than my heavy-*** stocker I had. It matches my up and down shifting a hell of a lot better. It hasn't affected my streetability in the slightest, and actually made it better IMHO.
If you're drag racing, then yeah, you'd prob want the 28#, but for a street car, I think and feel the 18# is perfect.
I have the 18# and it drives better than my heavy-*** stocker I had. It matches my up and down shifting a hell of a lot better. It hasn't affected my streetability in the slightest, and actually made it better IMHO.
If you're drag racing, then yeah, you'd prob want the 28#, but for a street car, I think and feel the 18# is perfect.
02-13-2013, 09:04 AM
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i went from the lighter flywheel with my spec to the 28lb steel flywheel with my new Monster. I figured the heavier one would be better for racing, however i havent raced as much as i wanted too and mostly street drive the car now and i really miss the lighter flywheel. If i could do it over again...I would get a the lighter one.
02-13-2013, 03:32 PM
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There ya go OP! It looks like the last two guys ACTUAllY have experience with BOTH of them. I think that I will try the 18# one, as I allready know what the 28# one feels like.
Last edited by slow ride 02; 02-14-2013 at 03:06 PM.
02-13-2013, 08:56 PM
#11
I should have mentioned that my choices were based of the twin plate from monster. This is a pretty light clutch so an 18lb for mine would have been WAY too fast. The 28lb is just about right with the twin. My previous clutch was an LS7 clutch on a ~28lb and it was great for drag racing but too slow. The clutch weight should also be taken into consideration. I'd imagine the 28lb twin would be pretty close in weight to the 18lb single.
The weight comes into play for streetability from a dead stop more than any other time. The heavier flywheel overcomes the potential friction more easily than a lighter one. Simple physics really. If you are concerned about rev matching while shifting fast then the lighter flywheel is the way to go. You can also control how fast the rpm's raise and lower through throttle cracker/follower and timing as well. It's easy to say this should be for this and that for that. I made the mistake above. What gears are you running. A 4.10 will work great with an 18lb flywheel. With 3.23's you would certainly want an 28lb.
The weight comes into play for streetability from a dead stop more than any other time. The heavier flywheel overcomes the potential friction more easily than a lighter one. Simple physics really. If you are concerned about rev matching while shifting fast then the lighter flywheel is the way to go. You can also control how fast the rpm's raise and lower through throttle cracker/follower and timing as well. It's easy to say this should be for this and that for that. I made the mistake above. What gears are you running. A 4.10 will work great with an 18lb flywheel. With 3.23's you would certainly want an 28lb.
02-14-2013, 03:10 PM
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I should have mentioned that my choices were based of the twin plate from monster. This is a pretty light clutch so an 18lb for mine would have been WAY too fast. The 28lb is just about right with the twin. My previous clutch was an LS7 clutch on a ~28lb and it was great for drag racing but too slow. The clutch weight should also be taken into consideration. I'd imagine the 28lb twin would be pretty close in weight to the 18lb single.
The weight comes into play for streetability from a dead stop more than any other time. The heavier flywheel overcomes the potential friction more easily than a lighter one. Simple physics really. If you are concerned about rev matching while shifting fast then the lighter flywheel is the way to go. You can also control how fast the rpm's raise and lower through throttle cracker/follower and timing as well. It's easy to say this should be for this and that for that. I made the mistake above. What gears are you running. A 4.10 will work great with an 18lb flywheel. With 3.23's you would certainly want an 28lb.
The weight comes into play for streetability from a dead stop more than any other time. The heavier flywheel overcomes the potential friction more easily than a lighter one. Simple physics really. If you are concerned about rev matching while shifting fast then the lighter flywheel is the way to go. You can also control how fast the rpm's raise and lower through throttle cracker/follower and timing as well. It's easy to say this should be for this and that for that. I made the mistake above. What gears are you running. A 4.10 will work great with an 18lb flywheel. With 3.23's you would certainly want an 28lb.
02-15-2013, 08:52 AM
#15
I went a step further on my track/occasional street car. I have the Act Prolite flywheel (14.7 pounds) coupled to a Spec 2+ clutch with the lightweight pressure plate option. I have to rev a little higher off the line, but can still do stoplight and and heavy traffic driving without too much heartburn. I've got 3.73s in the rear, aluminum drive shaft, base C5 T56 with F-body tail and an internally stock 2001 LS1. I do not drag race the car.
02-15-2013, 10:28 PM
#17
While my setup is only about 6lb lighter than stock more of the weight is centered reducing moment of inertia.
02-16-2013, 01:39 PM
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I am using the twin with the 28lb fw in a 3000lb car and 4.1 gears. I'm happy with it. It's not too fast or too slow. The total weight was 43 lbs I think. The LS7 clutch and fw are around 57lb I think. The LS7 is one of the heaviest combos out there.
While my setup is only about 6lb lighter than stock more of the weight is centered reducing moment of inertia.
While my setup is only about 6lb lighter than stock more of the weight is centered reducing moment of inertia.
02-16-2013, 03:04 PM
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