355 RS

iTrader: (7)

So long story short. Lt1 t56 car got hard to shift one day. Noticed master was leaking inside car. Replaced it and then slave cylinder and then replaced both again this time with a slave that has a bleeder. Ever since I have a great pedal but fully depressed the wheels still spin in any gear. So I got an adjustable master. Adjusted a little at a time with no difference until finally the clutch fork is hitting the pressure plate because of overextending. But even right before it starts hitting the pp the wheels still spin. How is this possible. Clutch and pp and throw out all have less than 12000 on them. Have even pulled trans and put back in. Checked the bolt and clip that holds the clutch fork on and made sure its fully pressed into throw out bearing. I have read similar problems but no solutions. And how could I be pushing the clutch fork far enough to hit the pp but still not disengage the clutch. Also clutch worked fine until stock master failed. This car has been setting since November on jack stands. Please help.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

A thicker flywheel, thicker disc, or differently dimensioned PP components narrow the already narrow window for range of motion the fork has. Correct action would be to correct the clutch component dimensions to stock. Milling the pivot tee base might work though.

355 RS

iTrader: (7)

The only thing that puzzles me is the clutch is the same as before which worked perfectly for 12000 miles until the master failed. It seems odd that just replacing the hydraulics would all of a sudden cause me an issue like this. I have messed with it for months and its got me stumped.

BALLSS

you could still have some air in the hydraulics. The stock system is sealed and difficult at best to bleed. you replaced the MC with one that has a bleed screw...I know of one who did that and had success in bleeding AFTER buying a MightyVac and hooking it up to the resevoir up top

by chance did you confirm the TO bearing lip is not bending or seperating from the bearing?

also, while your 12k clutch "should" be OK....it could be bad causing disengagement issues but you will have to pull to find out

SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

How many times has the flywheel been surfaced? I just had similar issues. My flywheel was undercut .100" causes the clutch to not fully disengage when shifting. Stock flywheel thickness is 1.825" from the back of the starter gear to the face.

silplu83

iTrader: (5)

Is the clutch fork bent?

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

I'm going to disagree with you there. The LT1 hydraulics are incredibly simple to bleed, provided you follow the GM procedure. Granted, if you don't bench bleed them after replacing components, it will take longer.