Clutch sticking to the floor
07-29-2013, 05:00 PM
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Clutch sticking to the floor My car is a 2000 t/a, exhaust and some suspention parts. The clutch has a new master cylinder, and the slave, and clutch disk was new 4k miles ago. Everything worked great up until a few hundred miles ago. I have bleed the clutch multiple times with no luck. I then replaced to master, as it was the original and that seems to be the next step. I also did the drill mod. I Have bleed the clutch both with the mity vac, and traditionally, and i still have the same problem. On a high rpm shift, the clutch pedal sticks about halfway up. I am at a loss, any help is greatly appreciated.
07-30-2013, 09:09 AM
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If you're confident it has been bled properly (and installed properly) then I invite you to sit down and read a little on what others have found. It's what I ran into as well, and was the fix for mine:
(btw, did a search for "self adjusting pressure plate")
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-flywheel.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...recommend.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...utch-good.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...lp-needed.html
(btw, did a search for "self adjusting pressure plate")
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-flywheel.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...recommend.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...utch-good.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...lp-needed.html
07-30-2013, 11:06 AM
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Would the SAC cause there to be a problem an almost every high rpm shift, but run normal at low rpm?
I do drive the car the way it was meant to be driven. It does see higher rpm shifts fairly often.
I do drive the car the way it was meant to be driven. It does see higher rpm shifts fairly often.
07-30-2013, 12:12 PM
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Well damn. Wish i would of known when i had the motor dropped and the trans off. I would of replaced the whole clutch with whatever is best for my situation instead of just the disk..
But when the clutch sticks, it can be pumped back, the mity vac does nothing, and during low rpm, everything works fine. It has gotten much worse.
It started out as a problem only when pulling it out of 4th gear after a high speed run, now it is blocking every 2-3 shift. Doesnt slip though.
But when the clutch sticks, it can be pumped back, the mity vac does nothing, and during low rpm, everything works fine. It has gotten much worse.
It started out as a problem only when pulling it out of 4th gear after a high speed run, now it is blocking every 2-3 shift. Doesnt slip though.
07-30-2013, 02:43 PM
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yeah its because your clutch splines are being pulled away from your slave cylinder at high rpm and thus your slave is getting over extended and dropping your clutch to the floor and then when your splines have returned to normal you can pump your clutch back to life because they are giving resistance to your clutch pedal again.took us a long time to figure that out.Me and my brother that is.and i dont know why the condition would deteriorate but mine did as well(locked outta 4th third and then even second)I would imagine that the splines loose their integrity over time especially when u keep forcing them inward at high rpms.Just get an aftermarket pressure plate and you'll have no worries.
Last edited by badamn; 07-30-2013 at 02:49 PM. Reason: unfinished thought
07-30-2013, 03:31 PM
#7
A spring has a life span just like anything and will get weaker over time/use. Surface grip can change during the life of a clutch and it may not full on slip ie free rev, but can still slip slowly creating extra heat. How much power are you making? Our clutches are on sale currently and will not leave with a limp pedal. Let me know if you have any questions. Chris, 817-750-2000
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07-30-2013, 03:49 PM
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A spring has a life span just like anything and will get weaker over time/use. Surface grip can change during the life of a clutch and it may not full on slip ie free rev, but can still slip slowly creating extra heat. How much power are you making? Our clutches are on sale currently and will not leave with a limp pedal. Let me know if you have any questions. Chris, 817-750-2000
07-30-2013, 04:22 PM
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I was having the exact same issue with my SS, tried the drill mod and DOT 4, didn't help...so I installed a tick adj master cyl and so far it has improved shifting a lot, still a little pedal sticking after 3-4 shift but I think it may just need further adjusting & bleeding...I guess since it's giving the slave the extra push to reach the pressure plate @ high rpm???
you should give the Tick master a try first maybe...it's made the issue almost disappear for me and many others...if you decide afterwards to go with a new clutch setup, you'll already have the Tick master to compliment it...
On the flip side, I hear & read a lot of good about monster clutches, so if you got the cash, just go with a whole new setup...if the issue persists for me, I'll probably go monster level 2 and be done with it
you should give the Tick master a try first maybe...it's made the issue almost disappear for me and many others...if you decide afterwards to go with a new clutch setup, you'll already have the Tick master to compliment it...
On the flip side, I hear & read a lot of good about monster clutches, so if you got the cash, just go with a whole new setup...if the issue persists for me, I'll probably go monster level 2 and be done with it
07-30-2013, 07:28 PM
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I was having the exact same issue with my SS, tried the drill mod and DOT 4, didn't help...so I installed a tick adj master cyl and so far it has improved shifting a lot, still a little pedal sticking after 3-4 shift but I think it may just need further adjusting & bleeding...I guess since it's giving the slave the extra push to reach the pressure plate @ high rpm???
you should give the Tick master a try first maybe...it's made the issue almost disappear for me and many others...if you decide afterwards to go with a new clutch setup, you'll already have the Tick master to compliment it...
On the flip side, I hear & read a lot of good about monster clutches, so if you got the cash, just go with a whole new setup...if the issue persists for me, I'll probably go monster level 2 and be done with it
you should give the Tick master a try first maybe...it's made the issue almost disappear for me and many others...if you decide afterwards to go with a new clutch setup, you'll already have the Tick master to compliment it...
On the flip side, I hear & read a lot of good about monster clutches, so if you got the cash, just go with a whole new setup...if the issue persists for me, I'll probably go monster level 2 and be done with it
@SNLPerformance , how much is a stage 2 clutch?
07-31-2013, 11:45 AM
#12
The problem is i am on a budget. Changing oil while your 18 only gets you so far.(i do have a few leads on jobs that i would like too have, and happen to pay alot better) I think it is the clutch, as i just put in a brand new master, and the problems persist, although it feels better during normal driveing, it now blocks the 2-3 verse only pulling out of 4th and having a problem.
@SNLPerformance , how much is a stage 2 clutch?
@SNLPerformance , how much is a stage 2 clutch?
07-31-2013, 12:38 PM
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The problem is i am on a budget. Changing oil while your 18 only gets you so far.(i do have a few leads on jobs that i would like too have, and happen to pay alot better) I think it is the clutch, as i just put in a brand new master, and the problems persist, although it feels better during normal driveing, it now blocks the 2-3 verse only pulling out of 4th and having a problem
Last edited by manzo81maro; 07-31-2013 at 12:52 PM.
07-31-2013, 07:44 PM
#14
Even though you put in a new stock master, the reason you're still having issues is because the stock master will not move enough fluid into the slave to reach the stock pressure plate @ high rpm...that's where the Tick shines, I just made another adjustment on mine, and now my issue is gone...either way you go will surely get rid of the issue, but I just wanted to let you know that for me and many others just changing to a Tick adj master solved it
EDIT* Nevermind, just saw your other thread. That's pretty much what I thought it would need to be set at to work.
07-31-2013, 08:48 PM
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I'm guessing you had to adjust it out quite a bit to reach those fingers when they are getting sucked in. What do you have your clutch pedal set to now? About a half inch above the brake pedal or is it less than that?
EDIT* Nevermind, just saw your other thread. That's pretty much what I thought it would need to be set at to work.
EDIT* Nevermind, just saw your other thread. That's pretty much what I thought it would need to be set at to work.
07-31-2013, 09:02 PM
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I would rather not have the clutch higher than the brake. And a clutch replacement was on the list of future mods, so i went ahead and ordered a monster level 2 and remote bleeder.
08-01-2013, 11:15 AM
#17
I would have to assume that the pressure plate fingers don't actually get "sucked in" further as RPM's increase. I would have to assume that the fingers stay at the same distance regardless of RPM.
That said, the clamping load of the pressure plate on the clutch disc I assume has to increase as rpm increases due to centrifugal force. Thus requiring the TOB to press harder against the pressure plate's fingers to allow them to release the pressure plate from the clutch disc. This is where our master that moves more fluid volume helps as it gives that TOB the added pressure it needs to push against the PP fingers causing them to release.
At low RPM's the load is no where near as great so the pressure required from the TOB isn't as great to decompress the PP fingers.
Since we haven't been able to test anything regarding the LS6, LS1, LS7 clutches with this SAC design, all of my statements are assumptions.
I would have to say and think though that the load on the clutch disc from the pressure plate does increase as rpm's increase just from centrifugal force and the clutch/flywheel spinning faster and faster as rpm's increase.
That said, the clamping load of the pressure plate on the clutch disc I assume has to increase as rpm increases due to centrifugal force. Thus requiring the TOB to press harder against the pressure plate's fingers to allow them to release the pressure plate from the clutch disc. This is where our master that moves more fluid volume helps as it gives that TOB the added pressure it needs to push against the PP fingers causing them to release.
At low RPM's the load is no where near as great so the pressure required from the TOB isn't as great to decompress the PP fingers.
Since we haven't been able to test anything regarding the LS6, LS1, LS7 clutches with this SAC design, all of my statements are assumptions.
I would have to say and think though that the load on the clutch disc from the pressure plate does increase as rpm's increase just from centrifugal force and the clutch/flywheel spinning faster and faster as rpm's increase.
08-01-2013, 03:32 PM
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I would have to assume that the pressure plate fingers don't actually get "sucked in" further as RPM's increase. I would have to assume that the fingers stay at the same distance regardless of RPM.
That said, the clamping load of the pressure plate on the clutch disc I assume has to increase as rpm increases due to centrifugal force. Thus requiring the TOB to press harder against the pressure plate's fingers to allow them to release the pressure plate from the clutch disc. This is where our master that moves more fluid volume helps as it gives that TOB the added pressure it needs to push against the PP fingers causing them to release.
At low RPM's the load is no where near as great so the pressure required from the TOB isn't as great to decompress the PP fingers.
Since we haven't been able to test anything regarding the LS6, LS1, LS7 clutches with this SAC design, all of my statements are assumptions.
I would have to say and think though that the load on the clutch disc from the pressure plate does increase as rpm's increase just from centrifugal force and the clutch/flywheel spinning faster and faster as rpm's increase.
That said, the clamping load of the pressure plate on the clutch disc I assume has to increase as rpm increases due to centrifugal force. Thus requiring the TOB to press harder against the pressure plate's fingers to allow them to release the pressure plate from the clutch disc. This is where our master that moves more fluid volume helps as it gives that TOB the added pressure it needs to push against the PP fingers causing them to release.
At low RPM's the load is no where near as great so the pressure required from the TOB isn't as great to decompress the PP fingers.
Since we haven't been able to test anything regarding the LS6, LS1, LS7 clutches with this SAC design, all of my statements are assumptions.
I would have to say and think though that the load on the clutch disc from the pressure plate does increase as rpm's increase just from centrifugal force and the clutch/flywheel spinning faster and faster as rpm's increase.
