violently pops out of third (gallery)
#1
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violently pops out of third (gallery)
So I bought the transmission from someone about a year or so ago and finally got it into the car, and driving and what not.
Everything seems to be fine, but then I notice that it violently pops out of third when the clutch engages, but only under normal/slower driving conditions. At high rpm it works fine.
Me being me, after the general anger left, I took it back out and tore it apart, using the shop manual and patience of course. I'll be honest, I get excited to tear things apart that I have never messed with before.
Here I am, I have the expertise to fix it and tear it apart, but my inexperience keeps me from knowing whether something is overly worn or out of place.
I always heard that the 3/4 shift fork is usually the culprit, so i included a lot of pics of that, and there does seem to be a few oddly worn areas.
Guys and gals, take a gander at my gallery and tell me if you see anything obvious out of place, or if there is anything indicative of my issue!
I can always take more pics, so if it will help you help me, I'm all for it!
LT1 T56
http://imgur.com/a/ocYLf
Thanks in advance!
Everything seems to be fine, but then I notice that it violently pops out of third when the clutch engages, but only under normal/slower driving conditions. At high rpm it works fine.
Me being me, after the general anger left, I took it back out and tore it apart, using the shop manual and patience of course. I'll be honest, I get excited to tear things apart that I have never messed with before.
Here I am, I have the expertise to fix it and tear it apart, but my inexperience keeps me from knowing whether something is overly worn or out of place.
I always heard that the 3/4 shift fork is usually the culprit, so i included a lot of pics of that, and there does seem to be a few oddly worn areas.
Guys and gals, take a gander at my gallery and tell me if you see anything obvious out of place, or if there is anything indicative of my issue!
I can always take more pics, so if it will help you help me, I'm all for it!
LT1 T56
http://imgur.com/a/ocYLf
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by Tolley's94z28; 08-15-2013 at 03:54 PM.
#2
i could be the fork is bent, also if you look at the teeth on the synchronizer sleeve is there more wear on the 4th gear side?
mine was popping out of reverse and i had to flip the synchronizer sleeve, that fixed my problem. on yours you can do that because it most likely just pop out of 3.. you may have to replace the sleeve.
mine was popping out of reverse and i had to flip the synchronizer sleeve, that fixed my problem. on yours you can do that because it most likely just pop out of 3.. you may have to replace the sleeve.
#3
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i could be the fork is bent, also if you look at the teeth on the synchronizer sleeve is there more wear on the 4th gear side?
mine was popping out of reverse and i had to flip the synchronizer sleeve, that fixed my problem. on yours you can do that because it most likely just pop out of 3.. you may have to replace the sleeve.
mine was popping out of reverse and i had to flip the synchronizer sleeve, that fixed my problem. on yours you can do that because it most likely just pop out of 3.. you may have to replace the sleeve.
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I think I found the culprit!
There is excessive slack between the 3/4 synchro and 3rd, here are a few pics:
Key separation when engaged in 3rd (don't know if this matters)
This is where it sits on 3rd when engaged showing just how much slack there is. As you can see, it is barely on the teeth of 3rd gear, which would explain why it kicks out of 3rd during normal driving (not much area to grab)
For reference, here is the amount of gap when 4th is engaged (orientation doesn't matter, the space the same)
Is this my issue? How do I fix it?
There is excessive slack between the 3/4 synchro and 3rd, here are a few pics:
Key separation when engaged in 3rd (don't know if this matters)
This is where it sits on 3rd when engaged showing just how much slack there is. As you can see, it is barely on the teeth of 3rd gear, which would explain why it kicks out of 3rd during normal driving (not much area to grab)
For reference, here is the amount of gap when 4th is engaged (orientation doesn't matter, the space the same)
Is this my issue? How do I fix it?
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#8
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The fork hole wallows at the shift rail.
While high-rpm could pull the synchro slider into the gear dog teeth somewhat at RPM due the hourglass shape of them, you need to assure the slider is going over the gear dog teeth fully. Is the synchro fully pressed on? Any compression evident on the fork pads? ANY wobbling of the fork on the shift rail - get a new fork. Wear at the shift lever bushing (under the shifter)?
The single cone 3rd/4th on these is simple; there shouldn't be much preventing a full travel shift.
While high-rpm could pull the synchro slider into the gear dog teeth somewhat at RPM due the hourglass shape of them, you need to assure the slider is going over the gear dog teeth fully. Is the synchro fully pressed on? Any compression evident on the fork pads? ANY wobbling of the fork on the shift rail - get a new fork. Wear at the shift lever bushing (under the shifter)?
The single cone 3rd/4th on these is simple; there shouldn't be much preventing a full travel shift.
#9
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The fork hole wallows at the shift rail.
While high-rpm could pull the synchro slider into the gear dog teeth somewhat at RPM due the hourglass shape of them, you need to assure the slider is going over the gear dog teeth fully. Is the synchro fully pressed on? Any compression evident on the fork pads? ANY wobbling of the fork on the shift rail - get a new fork. Wear at the shift lever bushing (under the shifter)?
The single cone 3rd/4th on these is simple; there shouldn't be much preventing a full travel shift.
While high-rpm could pull the synchro slider into the gear dog teeth somewhat at RPM due the hourglass shape of them, you need to assure the slider is going over the gear dog teeth fully. Is the synchro fully pressed on? Any compression evident on the fork pads? ANY wobbling of the fork on the shift rail - get a new fork. Wear at the shift lever bushing (under the shifter)?
The single cone 3rd/4th on these is simple; there shouldn't be much preventing a full travel shift.
#10
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3/4 is on the short end of the main shaft right?
Because the gears in the picture are on the long side, but I haven't had any problems with 1st or 2nd!
Also, I noticed that the bottom left bolt hole was stripped, and top right bolt wasn't tight when I removed the shifter, could this have caused all my issues all along? (the other two were pretty tight though)
Because the gears in the picture are on the long side, but I haven't had any problems with 1st or 2nd!
Also, I noticed that the bottom left bolt hole was stripped, and top right bolt wasn't tight when I removed the shifter, could this have caused all my issues all along? (the other two were pretty tight though)
Last edited by Tolley's94z28; 08-16-2013 at 01:40 PM.