Tick/Monster Lvl 2 package installed
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Tick/Monster Lvl 2 package installed
Hey guys, I posted this in my build thread, but thought I would post it here as well to add to the feedback of this setup:
So after having the common "sticky clutch pedal" issue for a while, I decided to try a couple mods to cure the problem.
1. Drill mod to stock M/C and flushed with DOT 4 - no change
2. Installed Tick adj M/C & speed bleeder - big change, but still had slightly sticky pedal
3. Just ordered the rest of Tick's clutch & hydraulic package, including: Monster level 2 single disc clutch kit with 18LB flywheel, new GM slave cyl, ARP flywheel & PP bolts
I got the Monster Level 2 clutch installed, very happy with it so far
Here's how the old components looked when removed, the disc had lots of meat left on it, as you can see the depth of the rivets...just some heat scoring on the flywheel & pressure plate:
I removed the old pilot bearing with a rental 2-jaw bearing puller...it ended up crushing the rollers out of the bearing first, but then it grabbed a good edge and popped the bearing out:
I installed the new bearing using a socket big enough to cover the face of the bearing, and just tapped it in (tap, tap, taparoo!):
I also went ahead and changed the rear main seal while it was staring me in the face...just pried the old one out with a flathead screwdriver, put some RTV around the outside of the new one, and pressed it in by hand:
Weighed everything and came up with about 2-2.5 LBS weight savings with the Monster level 2 & 18LB flywheel, so that should free up some power at the wheels.
New dowel pins are included with the kit, so here's how I got those in:
Wiped the flywheel with brake clean and installed with new ARP bolts, using ARP lube under the bolt head and red loctite on the threads, torqued to 85ft-lbs:
New level 2 disc and alignment tool:
New HD pressure plate installed with stock bolts & red loctite, torqued to 55 ft-lbs:
Getting the bellhousing off took some time because of the steel dowels seized to the aluminum...so before I re-installed, I cleaned up the dowels and applied some anti-seize to them:
New GM slave installed with Tick remote speed bleeder:
Finally got everything back in and torqued up:
Here's a little cherry on top from Hurst:
So it took a little while to get the system bled...ended up having to constantly close the bleeder and pump the pedal hard a few times to force the air to the end of the bleeder, but it eventually all worked out...
As far as pedal height, I started with the pedal about 1.5 inches below the brake pedal, started the car and had a little difficulty going into first...so I adjusted it to just underneath the brake pedal (maybe 1/2"), bled again, and this seems to be a good setting so far...car drives and shifts much smoother than with the stock clutch...it engages closer to the floor than stock, and has just a slightly stiffer pedal than with just the Tick master on stock clutch...I've only put 100kms on the clutch so it will be a while before I can see how it is when driven hard, but so far it definately feels much better than stock, it really is butter smooth...
I'm very happy I went with this setup, and would recommend it to anyone looking to upgrade from stock or just looking for a good street setup...maybe a little overkill for my power level, but I went with the level 2 so that I would have plenty of room to grow (ie. H/C)
So, once break-in is done, I'll see if the track is still open for the year lol, and see if I can get some new 1/4 mile numbers....may also head back to the dyno to see if I have more power @ the wheels
Have to say big thanks for all the input and advice from all...really helped me decide on parts and get through the install without a problem...also thanks to Monster Clutches & Tick Performance for awesome products & great customer service
Will update with new numbers and post break-in review when I can
So after having the common "sticky clutch pedal" issue for a while, I decided to try a couple mods to cure the problem.
1. Drill mod to stock M/C and flushed with DOT 4 - no change
2. Installed Tick adj M/C & speed bleeder - big change, but still had slightly sticky pedal
3. Just ordered the rest of Tick's clutch & hydraulic package, including: Monster level 2 single disc clutch kit with 18LB flywheel, new GM slave cyl, ARP flywheel & PP bolts
I got the Monster Level 2 clutch installed, very happy with it so far
Here's how the old components looked when removed, the disc had lots of meat left on it, as you can see the depth of the rivets...just some heat scoring on the flywheel & pressure plate:
I removed the old pilot bearing with a rental 2-jaw bearing puller...it ended up crushing the rollers out of the bearing first, but then it grabbed a good edge and popped the bearing out:
I installed the new bearing using a socket big enough to cover the face of the bearing, and just tapped it in (tap, tap, taparoo!):
I also went ahead and changed the rear main seal while it was staring me in the face...just pried the old one out with a flathead screwdriver, put some RTV around the outside of the new one, and pressed it in by hand:
Weighed everything and came up with about 2-2.5 LBS weight savings with the Monster level 2 & 18LB flywheel, so that should free up some power at the wheels.
New dowel pins are included with the kit, so here's how I got those in:
Wiped the flywheel with brake clean and installed with new ARP bolts, using ARP lube under the bolt head and red loctite on the threads, torqued to 85ft-lbs:
New level 2 disc and alignment tool:
New HD pressure plate installed with stock bolts & red loctite, torqued to 55 ft-lbs:
Getting the bellhousing off took some time because of the steel dowels seized to the aluminum...so before I re-installed, I cleaned up the dowels and applied some anti-seize to them:
New GM slave installed with Tick remote speed bleeder:
Finally got everything back in and torqued up:
Here's a little cherry on top from Hurst:
So it took a little while to get the system bled...ended up having to constantly close the bleeder and pump the pedal hard a few times to force the air to the end of the bleeder, but it eventually all worked out...
As far as pedal height, I started with the pedal about 1.5 inches below the brake pedal, started the car and had a little difficulty going into first...so I adjusted it to just underneath the brake pedal (maybe 1/2"), bled again, and this seems to be a good setting so far...car drives and shifts much smoother than with the stock clutch...it engages closer to the floor than stock, and has just a slightly stiffer pedal than with just the Tick master on stock clutch...I've only put 100kms on the clutch so it will be a while before I can see how it is when driven hard, but so far it definately feels much better than stock, it really is butter smooth...
I'm very happy I went with this setup, and would recommend it to anyone looking to upgrade from stock or just looking for a good street setup...maybe a little overkill for my power level, but I went with the level 2 so that I would have plenty of room to grow (ie. H/C)
So, once break-in is done, I'll see if the track is still open for the year lol, and see if I can get some new 1/4 mile numbers....may also head back to the dyno to see if I have more power @ the wheels
Have to say big thanks for all the input and advice from all...really helped me decide on parts and get through the install without a problem...also thanks to Monster Clutches & Tick Performance for awesome products & great customer service
Will update with new numbers and post break-in review when I can
Last edited by manzo81maro; 09-02-2013 at 03:12 PM.
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Sweet write-up. Exactly what I plan on doing to mine next.
Did you just get the $70 slave included in the premium kit? I've been torn with going that route or ordering a GM slave. It's $120 for a GM, but I know it'll be reliable. On the other hand, I can't imagine Tick or Monster would sell a slave with questionable reliability.
Did you just get the $70 slave included in the premium kit? I've been torn with going that route or ordering a GM slave. It's $120 for a GM, but I know it'll be reliable. On the other hand, I can't imagine Tick or Monster would sell a slave with questionable reliability.
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Sweet write-up. Exactly what I plan on doing to mine next.
Did you just get the $70 slave included in the premium kit? I've been torn with going that route or ordering a GM slave. It's $120 for a GM, but I know it'll be reliable. On the other hand, I can't imagine Tick or Monster would sell a slave with questionable reliability.
Did you just get the $70 slave included in the premium kit? I've been torn with going that route or ordering a GM slave. It's $120 for a GM, but I know it'll be reliable. On the other hand, I can't imagine Tick or Monster would sell a slave with questionable reliability.
I also ordered everything through Tick...clutch kit including slave shipped directly from Monster, and the bolts & shift **** from Tick
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http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html
Makes life A LOT easier dropping the trans by yourself. Well worth the cost for guys with manual cars, IMO.
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EXACT same route I went except instead of changing individual parts to try and solve sticky pedal, I said screw it and ripped it all out the first time lol My c5 is a daily driver and I'm not easy on it some days either. It takes it like a champ and my fluid has never gotten dark (I do change it twice a month though)
And to put the master in C5's :/
And to put the master in C5's :/