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Help Needed Transmission Removal

Old 09-05-2013, 11:09 PM
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Default Help Needed Transmission Removal

So, I've a '99 TA that needs a new clutch slave cylinder. The car is basically stock aside from exhaust and brakes. I've researched the procedure online and watched quite a few demonstrations on YouTube. I'm to the point where everything's disconnected and I've removed the 8 bolts that held the transmission to the bell housing. From what I've learned, the transmission should be able to be pulled free of the bell housing, allowing me access to the slave cylinder. Well, that is not the case. This thing will not budge. I've checked and rechecked my work and cannot seem to figure out what I'm doing wrong. Am I on the right path or do I need to change course a bit? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank You.
Old 09-05-2013, 11:28 PM
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I am sure driveshaft is all out and all bolts are double checked that they are remove!! Then you may have good ole aluminum corrosion and gets stuck. You just have to push and pull up down left right until it frees up
Old 09-06-2013, 06:46 AM
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You could spray a little PB Blaster around the joint and let it sit over night. That works miracles sometimes.
Old 09-06-2013, 11:47 AM
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You said all 8 bolts, including the one on top of the passanger side? I had to put a screw driver in a pry each side, I belive there's 2 dowels that line it up, they get stuck all the time
Old 09-07-2013, 06:10 AM
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Yeap. Drive shaft, tortion bar, all the bolts, wires, and the slave cylinder line have all been removed and disconnected. I appreciate the advice and will try spraying down good with PB Blaster, letting it soak, and prying on it. Hopefully I can break 'er loose! It amazed me that the transmission shop that replaced the clutch wouldn't have replaced the slave whilst having it apart, since it is a rather inexpensive part. This little deal, combined with another experience with that outfit... I won't be going back!
Old 09-07-2013, 08:02 AM
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Out of curiosity, how many miles on the slave that went bad?
Old 09-07-2013, 08:31 AM
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The 4 trans cross member bolts removed?
Old 09-07-2013, 01:10 PM
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U can put one bolt on either side loose and shake the **** out of it till it separates.had to do that to a a4 tranny before.
Old 09-07-2013, 10:09 PM
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Did you remove the shifter? Feel all around the transmission to make sure there is no where for it to be stopped when pulling back.

Yeah also make sure the trans crossmember mount is taken off.
Old 09-11-2013, 04:33 PM
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Default A lot!!

Originally Posted by demonspeed
Out of curiosity, how many miles on the slave that went bad?
I bought the car with 54,000 miles. She now has 182,000 on the original motor and trans. 2 clutches, bear brakes, rack & pinion, alternator, and exhaust is all she's needed. :-)
Old 09-11-2013, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Draconwolff
I bought the car with 54,000 miles. She now has 182,000 on the original motor and trans. 2 clutches, bear brakes, rack & pinion, alternator, and exhaust is all she's needed. :-)
Wow! Kinda makes one reconsider changing the slave "just because they're in there" when they've got under 100K
Old 09-11-2013, 11:01 PM
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If everything is indeed disconnected then tug on it a bit. It will come loose. Sometimes a few taps with a BFH will suffice as well.
Old 09-13-2013, 04:42 PM
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Thank You All for the advice! Some PB Blaster, a sharp chisel, and a hammer and I had it separated from the bell housing and out from under the car in about 30 minutes. I know that's quite a bit of time, but I'm working without a trans jack. Two well positioned ratchet straps work quite well for hoisting the trans back up into position too.
Old 09-13-2013, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Draconwolff
Thank You All for the advice! Some PB Blaster, a sharp chisel, and a hammer and I had it separated from the bell housing and out from under the car in about 30 minutes. I know that's quite a bit of time, but I'm working without a trans jack. Two well positioned ratchet straps work quite well for hoisting the trans back up into position too.
Nice. Good to hear you got it out!
Old 09-13-2013, 05:00 PM
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Hammer and chisel on aluminum? Whatever gets the job done! LOL
Old 09-13-2013, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by td1168
Hammer and chisel on aluminum? Whatever gets the job done! LOL
I had to do the same thing lol, op make sure you sand the dowels a lil, most likely were a lil rusted which was the problem reviving trans from bell housing, atleast it was in my case
Old 09-19-2013, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by td1168
Hammer and chisel on aluminum? Whatever gets the job done! LOL
Very VERY carefully! And not too much force. Gentle persuasion I would say.
Old 09-19-2013, 07:56 PM
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One last question... Would it make things easier to have the transmission in gear when reattaching it to the bell housing? I nearly got it back together, but it won't move that last 3/4 of an inch to get flush up against the bell housing. I suspect the splines aren't lining up and was thinking it would be easier to get things lined up if it were in gear.
Old 09-20-2013, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Draconwolff
One last question... Would it make things easier to have the transmission in gear when reattaching it to the bell housing? I nearly got it back together, but it won't move that last 3/4 of an inch to get flush up against the bell housing. I suspect the splines aren't lining up and was thinking it would be easier to get things lined up if it were in gear.
That last 3/4 of an inch is most likely the spring behind the throw out bearing keeping the trans from pushing flush to the bell housing. Just start a couple of bolts and draw the trans down evenly with the bolts
Old 09-20-2013, 11:34 AM
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Make for damn sure that the clutch disc is lined up correctly.

When I tried to install mine, it wasn't lined up correctly and no amount of coaxing would convince it to go in that last 3/4". But when I loosened everything again and was more careful lining up the clutch disc, it slid right in.


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