frostopsy

iTrader: (1)

Upon completing the install of a new clutch (monster stage 2), and slave cylinder on my 2000 Camaro, I can't seem to get the clutch bled. I have gone through over a pint of dot 3 so far, and I haven't seemed to made much progress. The clutch sticks to the floor after pumping it up. Fluid does spray out when I open the bleeder. I don't notice any bubbles in the MC when adding fluid.

Everything is new except the master cylinder, which I replaced several years ago with a 01+ version. The car drove and shifted fine before the install, are the new components too much for an old MC? I bought it used on ebay, and while i put less than 5k miles on it, the mileage is unknown. I missing or overlooking something else?

01_SuperSlow

iTrader: (7)

Keep bleeding it, it takes a while for the pedal to come up, depending on what bleeding method you are using. Bleeding by hand(opening and closing bleeder) or with a hand vacuum pump take the longest.

bp m1009

iTrader: (2)

if you are bleeding it manually, try pressing the pedal down really slow when bleeding. Or get a pressure bleeder. I had to go out and buy a Motive power bleeder to do mine.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Feel free to give a call if you haven't gotten it bled yet. Chris, 817-750-2000

GREG O.

iTrader: (4)

What psi did u set your Motive on?? I used 10 and getting nowhere..Can I do 20psi without doing damage to slave ??sorry for the hj...How long did it take? thanks GREG O.

frostopsy

iTrader: (1)

Chris, we gave Steve a call yesterday, but still haven't had any success. I gave Rick at RKT Performance a call, and he highly recommended getting a speed bleeder. I ordered one last night from Tick after putting another few pints through last night.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Yeah F-bodies can be a pain sometimes and a speed bleeder definitely helps. Let me know the outcome, good luck.

bp m1009

iTrader: (2)

have fun installing that speed bleeder without taking the trans out!
At this point you should just buy the motive bleeder, because you'll be able to use it on other projects and use it to bleed your brakes as well. FYI if your gonna buy it, get the european adapter for the clutch res. and the late model doestic one for the brake master.

Grego: I use mine between 15-20psi when i bleed things. It wont cause any harm doing so. You're pushing a lot more pressure when you step on the pedal to disengage the clutch.

frostopsy

iTrader: (1)

After three weeks of f-ing around with it, its finally done. The guy that runs the DIY was insistent we could bleed it the old fashion way, since thats how it came from the factory. So after another afternoon of that, I pulled the trans out yesterday morning (only took an hour!) plugged in the Tick SBer and got it mounted back on the car. Unfortunately, I didn't have the best results at first. I pumped the crap out of the clutch... for hours. No pedal pressure still. I thought my whole hydraulic system was shot. I eventually took a vacuum bleeder and put it on the SB nipple and just kept refilling the reservoir. That FINALLY did the trick.

I guess the thing to do when replacing the slave is to, a.) bench bleed the slave, b.) spring for the speed bleeder, c.) have a vacuum bleeder to speed things along.

I'm a former tech, and I had the help from several other mechanics on this project, and we were all pretty much stumped. Hope this helps the next person.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Glad to hear you got it bled finally!

bp m1009

iTrader: (2)

could have avoided all of that if you just got the motive bleeder....

Steamboat

Hi, I had the same problem, drove me nuts until I bought a large medicine syringe and adapted a mity vac tip to it that would fit down in the hole in the bottom of the mc reservoir have someone crack the bleeder ( I have a hole cut in floorboard for easy access) and start pushing fluid with the syringe. Close the bleeder before you stop pushing fluid.
This worked like a charm. After trying all other methods to no avail.
I have no soft spot and no more missed shifts.