85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

If you're putting down power to slicks a Quicktime SFI bell shouldn't be a second thought..

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

I'm not.

this is going in a road car not drag race. I'm sure I'll run it a few times but it will certainly never see high rpm drag launches.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

I only have a GTO with love marks and a new one on order for stock.

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

I found quite a few cracked ones. How are people cracking them?

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

still working at this, kind of. Got real busy with life and other things but I'm ready to get this thing finished. I got 1st gear, the tailhouse and the main shaft down to my brother so he can bring to our machinist friend. I was going to cut everything myself, but with how busy I've been and the fact my lathe is too large to grab the ID of the gear, I'm just going to outsource the machine work.

Is this the groove to machine in the SSR shaft so it takes the z06 reverse syncro?



seems like it is..just want to make sure.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Yep. The ledge where the rear mainshaft tapered bearing seats against (just barely out of the top of your pic) is a good reference point.

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

cool. I'm bringing both the vette shaft and the SSR to the machine shop so I can tell him to just match it up. He's good so I'm sure it will be fine.

I thought about it too, I'm going to need more snap rings correct? to lock down the tone ring for the VSS and what not?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Wait until he tells you how hard it is.

Mike references a press-fit in his article. That's one way to do the reluctor.

I absolutely don't suggest cutting ringlands, given that's where F-body mainshafts can break.

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

doesn't the SSR shaft already have the grooves for the VSS?

I have SSR tail, SSR shaft, and SSR vss. so I just need to put it together however an SSR goes together.

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

where are you guys get the 4.75mm stainless ball bearing for the upgraded retainer?

will a 3/16" one work from mcmaster?

4.75mm = .187" 3/16= .1875

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-st...-*****/=qs2a8c

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

The SSR VSS is 40 tooth, the write up details modifying a CTSv VSS to fit if you want the stock Fbody 17-tooth.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

That should work. I later learned that the TR6060 uses the same lock, but doesn't use the ball bearing, so it may be superfluous.. YMMV

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

The ssr 40 tooth will be fine. I'll fix it in efi live.

I'm going to order those ball bearings. So if anyone needs any steel ***** gimme a shout!


I also emailed TDP for the billet keys. I need to order those.

And I'm putting my order for the last bit of stuff from thegearbox today as well.

Trying to get the ball rolling to finish this thing.

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

Mike,

can you tell me anymore about your counter shaft tool?

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28...DCP_%20067.jpg

I get that it threads into the countershaft. What is the point of the nuts and the shim? Do the nuts jam onto the countershaft to get a tight fit? shim rides in the mid plate? Would you have an in action picture?

also, should I check end play on both shafts before installing any gears? Seems like it would be easiest to check while everything is mostly empty...if that's possible.

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

I answered some of my own questions.

are the nuts to hold the spacer in place?

edit.

I just found this...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...play-tool.html

I'm confused again on what I need. I thought the threaded rod just pogo sticks in and out the mid plate so you can get a dial on it. the nuts and spacer confuse me.

85MikeTPI

iTrader: (9)

For a 2pc counter, you have to bolt the rod on both ends of the countershaft when measuring end play. The 1pc on your Z06 doner won't need the nuts.

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

any advise on preloading the shafts to get an accurate measurement?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Hand rotate the adapter plate races against the thinnest shim or zero shim so you know they're seated.

The case rear shims are static.

Shafts in, case on, measure away. Shim accordingly.

Bearing preload comes by your shimming, not while measuring end-play.

Mud? Clear? As?

cajundragger

iTrader: (2)

I understand both shafts should have movement, and that I'll shim to not. I know the difference between endplay and preload.

Do you guys typically go to 0.000" endplay, or 0.002" preload? I've seen people use both..?


I guess I'm just going to have to get in there and go from there. But am I right that before I assemble gears onto the main shaft and such I can set all my clearances?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Yes. 1-3 speed gears shouldn't impact endplay. You can set them naked.